Front wheel removal

[George]

I went out and bought my lift yesterday from princess auto, today I put it together to find out that it's about 1 1/4" narrow of sitting on the outside of the frame so I figure I'm going to have to get some 1/4" plate around 14x14 and bolt it onto the stand to reach the outside of the frame. I thought about using some heavy square channel but as it sits now I have about 1/2" of clearance between the frame and the lift and that's with a 2 x 4 under the kick stand to level the bike up a bit. If anyone has any suggestions they would be highly appreciated, also does anyone know the size of the hex head on the front axle of the Voyager, Thanks

[Rasta]

You need to get the Idaho jack adaptor.b He is a member on here.

http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25144

[Sin City Stan]

You need to get the Idaho jack adaptor.b He is a member on here.

http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25144

Correction. The 1700s do not need the jack adapter to clear the crankcase as it does not extend below the frame.

[cnc]

You only have a 1/2 in clearance when the jack is fully down? Maybe we are not talking the same jack, but I have probably 5-6 inches with my Nomad. Idaho sells a jack adapter to help the Nomad sit on the jack better. My jack fits the frame rails ok, but I added hockey pucks as pads so the crank case cleared the jack.

[cnc]

Oh yeah, if the Voyager is the same as the Nomad, I believe it is 22 milimeter. The outside of the stock spark plug wrench in the tool kit fits, but might not be robust enough.

[George]

You only have a 1/2 in clearance when the jack is fully down? Maybe we are not talking the same jack, but I have probably 5-6 inches with my Nomad. Idaho sells a jack adapter to help the Nomad sit on the jack better. My jack fits the frame rails ok, but I added hockey pucks as pads so the crank case cleared the jack.
I think we are talking different jacks, mine is the pro point 1500 lb from princess auto, in the specs it states that the pad dimensions are 13 1/4" long when they are actually 12 1/4" long. My problem is that the measurement between the frame from outside to outside is roughly 13", looking at the picture of the Idaho jack adapter it looks like it works well on the Nomads but the frame on the Voyager looks to me to be straighter and I may be wrong but it looks like there is clearance between the bottom of the crankcase and the frame. Has anyone used the adapter on a Voyager? :shrug:

[cnc]

Yeah, mine is similar to the red one the sell, the pads are slightly different.
The crank case on the Nomad hangs down bellow the frame also. I would weld blocks on the end of the pads to extend them and give clearance for the case if I were you.

[George]

Yeah, mine is similar to the red one the sell, the pads are slightly different.
The crank case on the Nomad hangs down bellow the frame also. I would weld blocks on the end of the pads to extend them and give clearance for the case if I were you.
What I meant was the crankcase on the Voyager sits above the frame by around 1/2" but on the pictures of the Idaho adapter on the Nomad, it looks like the frame curves up at the front of the bike this is why the adapter is off set where the Voyager frame look straighter in the same location and to me I can't see it working, I haven't seen it in person so I could be wrong. :shrug:

[cnc]

So if the frame is straight and the case is above the frame rails then just extending the length of the pads should work, no?

[George]

Sometimes if you walk away from a problem the solution will kick you in the ass when your not thinking about it. The rails are made up of 2 1/2" U channel [which is very common] with a centre tube maybe 3/4", because of the limited clearance between the underneath side of the bike and the lift it probably wouldn't cost all that much to have a whole new set of rails made up about around 15 - 16" long and reinstall it on the lift. Thanks for the help and the size for the front axle