Baffle removal (Blafectomy) on 2011 Voyager or Vaquero

[Scorpo90]

Has anyone here done the following baffle removal, cutting the outside plate with a 2" circular saw and removing the last baffle completely?
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g373/Scorpo900/Snapbucket/Voyager/VoyagerExhaust.jpg

If you have done this on a 2011, need to hear your impressions. I look in the pipe and see that there is a weld about 2" inside the small diameter pipe at the bottom, but I'm unsure there might be more welds inside the pipe. My goal is removing the entire small diameter pipe at the end of the exhaust, and then drilling the 2nd baffle inside the pipe. I'll leave Cats alone, they do taste like rabbit...:D Any help is appreciated. Thank you. I appologize upfront if this is a repeat thread, but I been searching for info on 2011, and nothing has come up.

[ringadingh]

I haven't heard of anyone trying that yet on a 1700, But I assume it may be very similar to the 1500's & 1600's. It may be difficult to cut that pipe inside the muffler if it doesn't slide out in one piece.

[shivanurse]

Yup. Done it on my Vaquero. I noticed a very mild increase in volume and not much else frankly. I'm still gonna get some Vance and Hines or wait for something better. I even cut into the baffle material but beware that stuff will grab on to your hole saw and never let it go.

[Scorpo90]

Yup. Done it on my Vaquero. I noticed a very mild increase in volume and not much else frankly. I'm still gonna get some Vance and Hines or wait for something better. I even cut into the baffle material but beware that stuff will grab on to your hole saw and never let it go.

Ok you are the person to talk to, lol. You did cut the outside plate? (Assuming you did), is the rest of the small diameter pipe attached to the plate, or is it attached to something else? Also, did you then drill into the second restrictor plate, inside the canister, is right after the 1st restrictor, which is connected to the small diameter pipe that pokes through the outside plate at the rear? I'll re draw the diagram I have above with what my goal is.

Here is what I have read so far, most people just drill using a 1 1/4" circular saw, the 1st and 2nd restrictor plates inside the small diameter pipe, but do not cut the outside plate, or flange that holds the small diameter pipe at the center of the exhaust. People that have done 1st and 2nd restrictor plate drill as indicated above, say that it sounds louder than stock, not as loud as aftermarket pipes, but with a deeper low tone.

I dislike the look of the small diameter pipe poking out the center of the exhaust, that's the only reason for wanting to remove it, I'll then cut down the flange as close as possible to the outside can.

If you can take good flash photos of the inside of your pipes, that will help me a lot. Thanks. :tup:

[Scorpo90]

This is my plan.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g373/Scorpo900/Snapbucket/Voyager/Voyagerpipe.jpg

[Scorpo90]

Ok I drilled through the 1st and 2nd restrictor plates using a 1 1/4" circular saw. Got not that much improvement on the sound >:(, does not sound like the Jetsons bike anymore, but more like a neutered harley . I did notice that the pipe that has the restrictors runs all the way through from the rear end of the muffler, to the 2nd restrictor plate. After drilling the 2nd restrictor plate, the next thing is the cat-converter. So, the next thing I need to figure out is if the small diameter pipe is attached to something else inside the exhaust at the catalitic end, and if it has other stuff surrounding it inside the muffler, e.g. more flanges. A 2 1/8" circular saw fits at the muffler end to cut the flange that holds the small diameter pipe at the center of the exhaust. But I will not do that part of the procedure, until I know for sure the entire small diameter pipe can slide out the rear of the muffler, e.g. not have other flanges or stays inside the muffler. I'm already considering dropping this project altogether and saving for a set of 4" Rinehart Slip ons. Thanks.

[Scorpo90]

updated diagram.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g373/Scorpo900/Snapbucket/Voyager/Voyagerpipe-1.jpg

[Crab]

so what did you end up doing... i went thru the inside with a 1-1/8 hole saw but was considering a 2'' on the outside ring???any help would be appreciated

[Scorpo90]

Its been a while, I hacked the end tip off of a 2010 slash end set of factory pipes I bought on ebay, bought two black anodized 4" tips and installed at hacked ends, drilled through the inner pipe, all the way through, and end of problem. Bike sounds great, looks custom, and did it all for less than $75. Looks just like a set of Rineharts 4" straight cut. No kidding. See photos on link.

http://www.google.com/search?safe=off&hl=en&site=webhp&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=cCrBUcSaKYv29gT46oD4Bg&q=vulcan+voyager+custom+made+exhaust+pipes+scorpo9 00&oq=vulcan+voyager+custom+made+exhaust+pipes+scorpo 900&gs_l=img.12...9774.14314.0.15360.10.10.0.0.0.0.146 .1121.1j9.10.0.cplpr..0.0...1c.1.17.img.rn_heQL5N1 0&biw=1280&bih=752&sei=girBUe2sH4zY8gSBqIGABw#biv=i%7C4%3Bd%7CMTtHmOU sPOGubM%3A

[Tynker]

If you want it to sound a bit better, remove the right side muffler. Look in the front end, you will see why it runs hot, and is so muted. I cut the plug out of the front end of the pipe. Now the exhaust does not have to hit the plug, then go out of the small holes in the front of the muffler, then through the cats, then through the rear baffles I did punch out the rear plugs, and now have a great sound, nice and low, with not as much heat... 90% of the exhaust comes out of the right side, so I concentrated my efforts there. The only to do the left side, would be to cut the pipe in front of the muffler, and sleeve it back when done. this makes a large difference, in heat, sound, and performance.

[jestephens]

I cut out the whole thing on my stock cans, even cut out the back (where the pipe enters) and installed a solid pipe through the old cat area. IMHO it was all a waste for the end sound, but heat was drastically reduced.

[Calflan]

Just to clarify, the 1st and 2nd restrictor plates can be cut out from the back, as well as the outside plate. Then, from the forward end of the cannister, drill through the pipe to remove the restrictor plates (which force the exhaust flow to the cat portion of the cannister and therefore increase the back pressure). The left side, need have the pipe cut in order to get a straight shot at the restrictor plates in that cannister, then sleeved and welded back together. What exactly does the small through pipe that sticks out the aft end of the exhaust, connect to ? When can that be removed from the back, is it attached to the 2nd restrictor plate ?
Thanks a bunch !

[Calflan]

Well no response on anatomy of the baffles but for those that need know, here's a brief.
There are three sets of baffle restrictors - 1 1/4" plates - in the baffle within the muffler assembly that create 4 ea. chambers for airflow inside the baffle within the muffler assembly. Surrounding the baffle I believe, is the catalytic material (beads, whatever). The back pressure caused by these restrictors has got to be crazy. The exhaust flow enters the muffler assembly and is immediately stopped and directed through approx 5 sets of 4 pea sized holes that direct the exhaust flow into the surrounding chamber (cat material). The exhaust flow must make a 90 degree change in direction pretty much as soon as it enters the muffler assembly, so the back pressure from the muffler forward (toward the engine exhaust port) has got to be ridiculous - which obviously increases engine running temps. They say these engines are starved for air inlet and exhaust and seeing this I'd have to say the exhaust definitely is. Drilling out the most aft restrictor from the baffle (1 1/4" metal hole saw) increases sound a bit, I actually like it since one reason i went to the Voyager from my 1600 Classic with Cobra pipes was less noise (old guys rule). It's a deeper throatier sound, but still much quieter than after market pipes. Cutting out one restrictor at a time increases exhaust airflow because as the flow is redirected as soon as it enters the muffler assembly and goes into the surrounding cat chamber, it flows in and out of the second and third chambers, until it reaches the fourth chamber and can exit the pipe. Cutting out the third restrictor increases the size of this chamber by combining four and three so the baffle assembly is now a three chamber baffle instead of four and allows for less interrupted flow before it exits the pipe. This, I believe, will allow a slight temp decrease in running temp, but time will tell.

Leaving it with just restrictor three drilled out, for a few days to see what temp and performance changes I may see. Looking mostly for a bit better running temp than 3/4 or better gauge on a hot day, would love to see more toward 1/2 gauge. Drilling out the second restrictor (which will make the baffle a two chamber baffle) is tempting but maybe later after I see how much difference each restrictor removal makes. I would think the best situation would be, pull the mufflers off and drill out the most forward restrictor and leave the second (midway) restrictor. That way the exhaust flow wouldn't be as interrupted when it immediately enters the muffler and will have only two instead of four chambers to travel. If I go with pulling another restrictor, I think that'll be what I do, but that'll require cutting and reweld of the left muffler pipe just forward of that muffler as you can't angle to get at the first restrictor on the left pipe without getting the turned pipe out of the way. I can't imagine cutting the first restrictor will increase noise much either, given it's midway through the exhaust system instead of at the end. One restrictor midway may be optimum for guys that don't want allot of noise change, but want better running temps and exhaust airflow. Will update as I monitor or make changes. Thanks to Scorpo for starting this thread.