View Full Version : Monkeymans mods
Monkeyman
09-26-2011, 01:08 PM
I don't have a blog so I thought I'd start a thread chronicling the modifications I'll do to my Nomad. I can't leave anything alone. If a peanut butter sandwich could be modified, improved or altered, I'd do it. :)
The bike was purchased with a light bar (F&S?) and some "frugal" highway pegs (hate to say "cheap").
The first thing I absolutely had to do was remove the Vista Cruise. I'll add some Kuryakyn ISO grips and Throttle Bosses this winter.
Next, I removed the side reflectors from the license plate. I know reflectors are good but they just look...out of place. Eventually, I'll lay the plate down probably using Gadgets trick if I can buzz the reflector off and find a good way to light it up.
Monkeyman
09-26-2011, 01:14 PM
Today, I started on solo'ing it out. I removed the back rest and rear seat. I hope a rear fender rack will hide those bolts. http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/images/smilies/icon_e_sad.gif
I cleaned up all the hidden spots behind the bags and under the seat. When I remove the seat (for future mods), I'll clean there, too.
2x18wheeler
09-26-2011, 02:23 PM
Monkeyman, good luck with the mods. I think it will be kind of neat to watch your progress over the next few months.
mobandy78
09-26-2011, 02:25 PM
You'll like the solo set up. I did that to mine also!
AlabamaNomadRider
09-26-2011, 03:00 PM
Always enjoy following mods on people's bikes. I don't do many but enjoy seeing and reading about what others are doing. Good luck with the mods.
ringadingh
09-26-2011, 06:10 PM
If you removed the cold idle solenoids, that vista cruise would come in handy.
macmac
09-26-2011, 09:25 PM
Here's how you mod a vista cruise, Note the engine is off the vista cruise is locked ON, other wise you wouldn't see it.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll275/Mac_Muz/Nomad/bike_voltmeter.jpg
cajun2wheels
09-26-2011, 09:48 PM
I really like the solo look.
Monkeyman
09-26-2011, 09:57 PM
More info, Mac?
crazygene49
09-27-2011, 07:01 PM
I took my rear seat off also. I installed a Mustang fender bib, because I already had saddlebag chaps installed. I'm plannining to buy a lay down tag holder from www.motosport.com.
dholmer
09-27-2011, 07:41 PM
Monkeyman, whats wrong with the vista cruise and how much do you want for the highway pegs... In my case, something is better than nothing (even if they are frugal)...
Monkeyman
09-27-2011, 09:38 PM
I just think the Vista Cruise looks ugly and out of place. I'll keep the highway pegs on for now. This winter I'll get a set of Kuryakyn pegs then these (as well as a bunch of other OEM stuff) will be up for grabs.
Monkeyman
10-02-2011, 08:19 AM
Here's my new lay down plate. I bought mine off of eBay for less than $30. It's for a HD so it involved a bit of modification. I had to drill out the mounting holes in the plate as well as trim a bit off the bottom of the rubber stand off. It's a bit crooked as it needs a bit more grinding on the plate. (Doing it all with a Dremel and broke the bit.)
BTW, the bike has now tasted my blood. We are one. http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif
Loafer
10-02-2011, 09:37 AM
Blood Sisters... ;)
Monkeyman
10-08-2011, 07:03 PM
The mods are small now due to lack of funds but the big projects will be this winter.
Todays mod is a grip change. I bought a used set of Avon grips from jp58 this week. (Great doing business with him.) Today I installed them. The official instructions said to wrap some sort of double sided sticky tape around the left bar then stick the grip to that. Per Mr. 58, I used some clear silicone. We'll see if it lasts.
I tried to remove the left end cap (per Mr. Gadget) so I could reuse them to cover the motor mount bolts but completely destroyed it (and cut a slit in my thumb aswell) so I'll just have to move on to plan B when I get around to covering them.
I followed the destructions off Mr. Gadgets site so I was able to keep my left grip more or less intact. I have no idea what I'll ever use it for but it went in the toolbox anyway. The wrist rest is a pain to mount without a LONG screwdriver but if you're good at making something out of nothing like me, you can do it. (I put a long phillips drill bit in a socket attached to a socket/screwdriver handle...bit wobbly but it worked as the screw is on the inside of the grip. I knew this set up before I bought the grips. Not as handy as the ISOs but doable.)
Anyway, the pics tell the story so here they are.
http://i55.tinypic.com/513cjd.jpg
http://i51.tinypic.com/2q07cj8.jpg
http://i51.tinypic.com/5f579j.jpg
I'm letting the silicone cure for 24 hours in the closed garage on an 82 degree day so it should be as good as it'll get by tomorrow morning. If I can twist the grip off, I'll try something else.
cactusjack
10-08-2011, 07:38 PM
The Avon grips I had on my Nomad had setscrews to secure them to the left bar. I didn't need any adhesive.
Monkeyman
10-09-2011, 04:03 AM
Not these, brother. The grip doesn't even slide all the way on to the bar (only lacking about 1/2" I think). (I'm assuming the left controls are pinned like the right.) If I don't like these, I'll buy ISOs this winter. I'll see what they feel like later today.
EDIT: Are you talking about the 3 little set screws on the control end? Looks like those only hold the SS piece on the grip. Maybe I'm missing something on mine or a different model.
Monkeyman
10-09-2011, 03:17 PM
Forgot to mention that I did the Gadget gas tank cap mod. My bike was whistling. Now it's not.
Monkeyman
10-16-2011, 06:22 AM
Mounted the switches for: garage door opener, spot lights and 4 ways. Still need to wire them up. I got micro switches from Radio Shack. Everything will be run through relays (except the garage door opener, of course). I couldn't find any waterproof ones but I tend not to ride in the rain (and someone probably makes rubber covers anyway) so I should be ok. I decided to mount them on the unpainted extension of the right side cover as I want a bit of a stealth look. Nobody needs to know I have switches for anything. Less chance they'll mess with them.
The side cover (and extension) was dirty so I washed them...in the kitchen sink. I figure anything that will fit in the sink or bathtub can get washed that way. Much better than a spray bottle of cleaner. Once they're dry, I'll reassemble everything, solder the wires to the switches (with heat shrink over the connections) and wire everything up.
Loafer
10-16-2011, 08:13 AM
Are you going to be able to get those decals off the bags?
Monkeyman
10-16-2011, 08:16 AM
Somehow. I tried a hair dryer but it didn't have much affect. Not sure what else to use. I don't have a heat gun and can't see buying one just for a few stickers. The hair dryer will be sufficient to remove the "Kawasaki" emblem from the side cover and the Vulcan emblems from the tank (thinking about some air brushing instead). If you have any suggestions, lay 'em on me.
macmac
10-16-2011, 08:34 AM
The clear coating stickers are still on the bags trim? ouch! Work at it, if you must get a woman with finger nails to work at it.
The switches for these jobs are ok, maybe even good where they are, but mostly make any switches lefty, since your right hand is busy on either the throttle the ft brake.
One set of my passing lamps, the amber, are on a cobra light bar, and the 'engineer' located the switch for the right hand (the work of a fool)
My other set of passing lamps mounted on the bottom bolt for the lowers is zip tie mounted between the seat and the top left frame rail, just behind the tank. I can't see it, but I know it's there, and when it's turned on there is a blue led that makes a reflection on the wind screen.
I have never mounted anything on the forks chrome back pannel, but there is room enough for about 12 switches per side if you gotta have that much stuff. There is room in there for maybe 4 relays per side too.
I have a womans purse made of cheap black leather, gutted for my shades, that rests in the slot before my bars and behind the windscreen held by gravity alone, but that spot with some fabed up sheetmetal and made 'right' could hold a number of relays and switches.
I do the KISS method. I can drag that little bag out in a heart beat and put it back in easy, a lot more easy that I could deal with the 1500's pro made screen bag that was bolted to the screen. That rig was a pain, and the fastener was smack lined up with the bar backside, nearly impossible to latch or un-latch.
I am trying to do away with any chrome in that area that sends sun light in my eyes, so I would not be the one to say chrome any metal work near the screen. I mounted a tach there and placed it about normal, just to the left of my screen bag. The sun from behind made that wicked on my eyes and I moved it to a hard angle right. I can still see it. Thats the point right? See it with out getting blinded..
The dub I gave my 2nd Nacell to for powder coating has had it 2 years and some days at this point. I should have just sandblasted that part and painted it flat black myself.
At this point I don't expect to ever get it back, and if I do I ain't payin nuthin'. Funny how some people are.
Monkeyman
10-16-2011, 09:36 AM
Here's part of my reasoning for the switch location (other than what I mentioned before). My garage door opener only has a range of about 100 feet so I'm in my driveway before I hit the button. Once I stop, I can leave it in gear (with my hand on the clutch) and reach down to hit the button. I don't hit the button when I'm moving in the truck and won't on the the bike, either. The spots will have their own circuit (so I still have lights in case the headlight fails). For an extra 20 minutes worth of work, I can add a switch. They'll only be powered when the lights are on so I'll never mess with the switch. I can't really see going very fast if I need to turn the 4 ways on and would probably be stopped. Again, if I need to remove the left cover, I won't have a ton of excessive wiring in the way. Things should stay pretty neat under the bike.
I love chrome but if I add anything that affects my vision (sunlight, etc), it goes. Looking good while riding is one thing...not being able to see while looking good is something else. :)
If someone had a part of mine for 2+ years, I'd hunt him down and take it back.
macmac
10-16-2011, 09:07 PM
If I cared enough about the part I would have done exactly that. I still might, but I'ld like it done first before I take it back. I am sure not paying.
In my world stuff I need breaks before I get the other stuff that broke fixed.
That part is lower on my list for the time being. I did it this way because i was curious about the powder coat and I was curious about the guy that does it.
I learned a lesson. For all I know he might show up in the door yard with it done, say Man I am sorry here ya go ........ and hand it to me fixed. Time will tell.
He knows i carry a .45 everyday the sun comes up. He also knows I have a even temperment ...... most of the time.
I am what is refered to as a Buck Skinner, and things Buck Skinners do can easily take a year to complete. Powder coat of course is not one of them, not on a nacell anyway. But I am used to year waits, but not 2.
I hope you are planning on dumping the mirrors...I got rid of mine a year ago for something more stylish and better quality...I can actually see something in the new ones. Could quote a vendor but here in Germany might be a bit too far to travel for just mirrors.
Monkeyman
10-17-2011, 05:55 AM
I'm planning an HD fairing next winter. I'll add the OEM fairing mounted mirrors. If I can find a pair of small back up cams cheap enough, I might even add that instead of mirrors. Probably more work than it's worth, though.
Monkeyman
10-22-2011, 05:02 PM
Installed some smoked turn signal covers and bag racks today. I got the turn signal covers on eBay from D2MOTO. Crappiest pieces of ill fitting parts I've ever seen. Finally got them to fit but I'm surprised I didn't break a housing. I broke one mounting tab (on a new cover). D2MOTO said they'll send me a replacement. We'll see.
On to the bag racks. I've decided I'm never drilling another hole in my bike again. I don't think the racks are symmetrical at all but they're as close as I could come. They'll have to do, I guess. I laid down a couple layers of painters tape then outlined the mounts with a pen. Removed, drilled with progressively larger bits, etc. For anyone planning this, DON'T DRILL ALL 3 HOLES AT ONCE!! I drilled/mounted the rear 2 holes then double checked the front hole. It made a huge difference in location. You can see in one of the pics.
I bought one of the $39 sets on eBay. I guess you really do get what you pay for. The mounts weren't angled correctly, it's lacking chrome on one of the welds and you can see in one of the pics how the included washers were just pulled off a mold. The company didn't even bother to take the time to snip the flash off. Finally, the racks are bent/curved all wrong. In order to mount them as forward as they should be (so they don't hang over the rear), they would have hit the bag. However, it's all done so I'll live with what it is.
On to the pics! :)
Monkeyman
10-22-2011, 05:04 PM
misc pics and smoked turn signals
Monkeyman
11-04-2011, 03:56 PM
Today I installed my "new" V&H pipes. I got them used (but in awesome condition) from bokobob. Nobody (including Autozone) had a torque wrench so I borrowed a cigarette from the neighbor across the street and tried the smoke test. I don't see any leaks but I'll double check them with a torque wrench when I find one. One bolt on the right muffler has some crappy threads at the tip so that's only held on by one bolt right now. I'll get another bolt tomorrow.
Easy installation except a couple of the acorn nuts were a bit difficult to get a wrench around due to the heat shields. If the pipes had been brand new (heat shields off), it would have been a piece of cake. I started it with the stock baffles, with no baffles and with stock baffles minus the packing. So far I like the no baffles sound but I know I'll lose backpressure/torque so I have the unwrapped baffles in place now. I'll have to either cut down the baffles or get some UBs.
I'm missing a bolt for the windshield so it's still off the bike. I rode it a few miles that way just to see what it sounded like on the road. I'll get a bolt for the exhaust and windshield tomorrow for sure.
crazygene49
11-04-2011, 04:45 PM
Congratulations on the progress.
Monkeyman this is jp58. The 3 set screws on the left grip go all the way to the bar. tighten them with a very small allen wrench. The grip will be very secure then. I forgot to mention that.
Monkeyman
01-15-2012, 11:27 AM
It's been a minute since I've updated this so I'll post the biggest mods I've done in the past couple of months.
First, I installed Chucksters coasters and intake. I try to be very careful as I tend to screw things up anyway. I've read and re read warnings about making sure the IAC wires don't contact each other so I cut them off, heat shrunk each one, heat shrunk the bundle of them then zip tied them. If that doesn't work, nothing will. (Since I was coasterizing, I didn't need the IACs any longer.)
http://i454.photobucket.com/albums/qq269/Primatepapa/2012-01-15_08-00-19_771.jpg
Then came Chucksters dual plate intake with a beautiful aluminum "Vulcan" cover. Simple to do. If you're mechanically inclined (I'm not), you could probably do the intake and coasters in an hour.
http://i454.photobucket.com/albums/qq269/Primatepapa/2012-01-15_08-19-10_759.jpg
Joe (Chuckster) generously supplies longer rear tank bolts and spacers. I put the tank on to find that I didn't need them. + for me.
I also installed a set of $39 chrome saddle bag lower rails. Easy to install. (Hint: the front mount goes OUTSIDE the rail, not over it.)
http://i454.photobucket.com/albums/qq269/Primatepapa/2012-01-15_09-37-06_617.jpg
http://i454.photobucket.com/albums/qq269/Primatepapa/2012-01-15_09-36-44_475.jpg
I've also installed a V&H FuelPak. Mostly what's left this winter is the Tour Glide fairing (which seems like it will never get done as I can't get hold of anyone to make the main bracket), ape hangers, saddlebag chaps and some misc wiring. I'm thinking about moving the license plate under the turn signals but we'll see. If nothing else, I need to remove the current mount and straighten it up a bit. I'd like to do a few more things but we'll see how much time and money I have. I figure it'll take another $600 to finish the fairing (including stereo and speakers) plus about 60 man hours just on that alone. Come spring, I'm not planning any involved projects as I just want to ride!!!
BC RED VAQ
01-15-2012, 04:16 PM
Hey Monkeyman the bike is lookin good like the mods.
Monkeyman
01-15-2012, 04:27 PM
Thanks, BC RED VAQ. I do them for me but it's still nice to think others like it, too. Only held up now by a main fairing bracket. Gotta do something about that soon or go to plan B.
ringadingh
01-15-2012, 04:57 PM
Chris; you should give your throttle body a good scrubbing with a toothbrush and some carb cleaner, it looks quite dirty in the pics.(unless its just the lighting in the pic) It reall effects the mileage and idle of the bike. Check our Tech section theres a How To on on the topic.
krash
01-15-2012, 06:37 PM
Wow Chris, thats an awesome looking chucksters mod :tup:
Great idea to use that cool lookin' vulcun cover (copycat!) :hmm:
Course I stole (borrowed) the idea from Ringadingh :P
PS without the dog bowls you may not have to use the tank spacers from chucksters kit. There is about 3/8" of clearence between the backing plate and tank on mine.
Monkeyman
01-16-2012, 01:27 AM
ring --- I already have the toothbrush and carb cleaner out. :) I'll do that in a bit if I can get the garage warm enough. Good thinking.
krash --- lol...no dog bowls, no spacers and it look fabulous. Hoping I can get a few other misc things done today before I put it up for the week.
Monkeyman
02-04-2012, 03:50 PM
Between working and actually working on the bike, I don't seem to get around to updating this. I'll post the highlights quickly.
New Kuryakyn shifter pedals.
http://i454.photobucket.com/albums/qq269/Primatepapa/2012-02-04_14-45-13_355.jpg
I moved the license plate. I attempted to make a bracket out of aluminum. Didn't work so well but I'll find a piece of thin gauge steel and try again. The big problem was bending it. At least I know it can be done. This one is crooked but the next one will be spot on. I need to add a piece of rubber to the bottom in case it hits the fender. It's about a 1/2" away but I'd rather not chance it.
http://i454.photobucket.com/albums/qq269/Primatepapa/2012-02-04_14-44-52_108.jpg
kpmhspirit
02-04-2012, 06:33 PM
Just something that occurred to me regarding the license plate below the signals is that there is no license plate light. I got pulled over by a state trooper with attitude on I-70 near Indy because both my license plate light bulbs on the van I was driving had burned out. Just an fyi.
Monkeyman
02-05-2012, 01:09 AM
They make small LED license plate bolts that work fairly well. I'll get a couple of those. They're cheap.
Nice mods Chris..... and what better place to chronicle everything than right here on the VBA forum.
Monkeyman
02-05-2012, 11:28 AM
I couldn't think of a better place myself. :)
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