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View Full Version : Head Light Bucket, Front Accessory Connections


Bull Durham
05-06-2011, 11:22 AM
Question, drawing a blank here. Head Light Bucket, the empty Accessory Connectors. Which one is the Hot?

You have a Black w/ Yellow stripe and the other is White w/ Blue Stripe.

Not around my bike, so can't throw a tester on it. Was going to do something after work, wondered if anyone knew off the top of their heads.

BudMan
05-06-2011, 11:25 AM
Black/Yellow is the ground. This circuit is unswitched, Always hot. 10 amp.

cactusjack
05-06-2011, 12:55 PM
Question, drawing a blank here. Head Light Bucket, the empty Accessory Connectors. Which one is the Hot?

You have a Black w/ Yellow stripe and the other is White w/ Blue Stripe.

Not around my bike, so can't throw a tester on it. Was going to do something after work, wondered if anyone knew off the top of their heads.

Black/Yellow is always ground on these bikes. Blue/white is +12v constant.

Bull Durham
05-06-2011, 01:06 PM
I thought the same, but wasn't quite sure. Thanks guys, appreciated.

dabull
05-06-2011, 03:36 PM
For the Letrical illiterate...12V Constant = Always on when the bike is on???

Bull Durham
05-06-2011, 04:03 PM
You are correct, Sir!

VulcanE
05-06-2011, 06:45 PM
For the Letrical illiterate...12V Constant = Always on when the bike is on???

Always on means always on (hot) even with the switch off and the key in your pocket. ;)

dabull
05-06-2011, 08:21 PM
ok - need a referee...last two posts conflict....

AlabamaNomadRider
05-06-2011, 08:46 PM
I'm with you Derry, I thought it was only hot when the switch was on.

simdog
05-06-2011, 08:56 PM
Should be easy to test for somebody who is using it ... any takers?

minst7877
05-06-2011, 10:25 PM
The accessory plug under my seat is hot all the time. Even with the switch off.

DC

Bull Durham
05-06-2011, 10:39 PM
I believe I miss spoke, I didn't read DaBull's question clearly. The front accessory plug in the head light bucket, is ALWAYS hot, even with the ignition off.

To verify, just wen out and double checked.

dabull
05-07-2011, 08:18 AM
thanks for the clarification :)

Jared
05-07-2011, 08:50 AM
Is there one in the headlight that is only on when the key is on?

macmac
05-07-2011, 09:29 AM
No. The B/Y is always a ground not switched as iis the hot W/B never OFF..... There is no other wires as acc.

The 1600's have another pair of wires under the seat, in the same colors, off the same fuse.

The 1500's have a same colors pair under the seat and a gain under the tank. I never did get that figured.

DEPENDING on what you are doing you can take off a switched wire by adding one to the key switched wires somewhere, or add in a relay that comes on with the key or any other items.

If the plan is to load up a mess of stuff, I would suggest a relay to turn ON a added on fuse box, which the fuse box turns on with the key.

VulcanE
05-07-2011, 09:33 AM
Is there one in the headlight that is only on when the key is on?

Jared, there are only two accessory wires on a 1600, one set is under the seat, the other is in the headlight bucket, both are always hot. The one in my headlight bucket is the one that powers my light bar, and it is wired with a relay that closes the circuit (makes the lights come on) with switched power.

Bull Durham
05-07-2011, 05:23 PM
I wired up a aux. power socket, going to put another one in on other side of windshield, too. I ran the wire to the accessories connector in the head light bucket. I put a inline, 10 amp fuse. I only plan on using a ipod on one and possible a GPS on the other. That will be a 10 amp fuse, also.

Question I have, I bought one of those little Slime air compressor for on the road emergency flat tire fixes. I've never used it, do they draw much juice? It would be nice to just plug it into the new aux. power socket if I ever had to use it. Is the 10 amp fuse enough for it?

macmac
05-07-2011, 06:55 PM
Good question, but the answer is 15 amps draw on the slime. I have one on my desk top at this instant, and on the back of the unit there is a sticker that says so.

'IF' you run a Shumaker auto float / Anti Sulfation charger on the bike you can use the lead off the battery to run the comp, with an adaper to fit the pig tail, and a ciggy butt socket. No real need of a fuse, and it will be direct to the batt, so the comp can take all the amps it wants.

I made up an adapter for that sort of thing long ago with others that could be handy.

Bull Durham
05-07-2011, 09:03 PM
OK Mac, makes sense what you are saying. So, I could make a power socket just for using the charger or compressor, probably tuck ti in under the left side cover, direct to the battery.

Where do you keep yours? 'Cause I'm definately taking off the seats on the side of the road to run a compressor to fix a flat.

macmac
05-08-2011, 10:15 AM
I ran the Shumaker pig tail, which is hard wired to the battery, forward and down thru the wire hose tube keeper, where i can reach it pretty easy, but not really see it. The pig tail is wired long enough I can hold it with my right hand and plug in the charger end with my left.

I had another pigtail end extra and use that as a cap, but can use it for an adapter when ever I want.

You can buy a 2pk of these pig tails from most any auto parts stores in the trailer section for under a buck I think. The 2 pk I bought cost 78 cents 5 years ago.

Before that when I had my 01 1500 I made up a ciggy butt socket on a coiled wire to run things like my wifes cell, and do assorted other chores like run a mini comp. That set up could be stored under the left side cover, and was long enough to run under the seats to a back pack on the rear luggage rack.

The chance of a dead short for a tool like a comp is very remote, so no fuse is really needed since it is short term and you beter be there watching things or the comp will cook anyway.

There is 2 heats in a mini comp. One is the compressed air it makes, the other the motor. The fastest hot is the air getting compressed.

The slime says 14 minutes run time MAX before you allow it to cool. With that info I might run it half that time and give it that much time to cool, then run it again and so one til any job I was using it for was done.

I haven't used the slime rig yet, as it's number 4 mini comp for me. The other 3 are somewhat larger, so the attraction was the over all smaller size.

Chances are the 10 amp fuse which is the delay type will run the comp a while, before the fuse fries, but that sort of treatment wears hard on a fuse.

Like all things electric and pretty much everything else besides sand, fuses wear out in plain time. Over heating a fuse will wear it out early, and then they can fail for no apparent reason.

Do not install a 15 amp fuse in a 10 AMP holder! Always let the fuse be the weak link.

Bull Durham
05-08-2011, 04:21 PM
Agree with you on the 15 amp fuse to the 10 amp holder. I also believe that the accessories connection in the head light bucket is already a 10 amp fuse on the bike, but I still put in a 10 amp fuse inline for added protection. Also, another reason is for when I take off the windshield, I don''t need to unbolt the socket, I can just disconnect the fuse so the wire comes apart in two pieces.