Nomad died after 750 mile trip

[cocheese72]

I came home last night 750 miles. Hours of it through hard rain. At the last gas stop it started OK, but when taking off, it felt like it was missing. Once on the highway, it was fine. When I finally pulled in the driveway, was running bad at low revs, stumbling. Finally just sitting there it died, and now will not start.

I am thinking it may be the battery. I ran heated liner and gloves on the way home. Checking the battery, it is under 12.6v, sitting right at about 12.52v. I have it on the tender now. I tried jumping it off the truck, but it would not start.

What's next to check after the battery gets up to snuff, in terms of most likely.

[Dave]

Did it run fine up and until the last fuel stop?

[ponch]

I came home last night 750 miles. Hours of it through hard rain. At the last gas stop it started OK, but when taking off, it felt like it was missing. Once on the highway, it was fine. When I finally pulled in the driveway, was running bad at low revs, stumbling. Finally just sitting there it died, and now will not start.

I am thinking it may be the battery. I ran heated liner and gloves on the way home. Checking the battery, it is under 12.6v, sitting right at about 12.52v. I have it on the tender now. I tried jumping it off the truck, but it would not start.

What's next to check after the battery gets up to snuff, in terms of most likely.

Sounds like bad gas. That happened to me when I had a Vulcan 800 classic. It turned out there was water in the gas. I emptied the carb in a glass and low and behold, water ho. I drained the tank and started over.

[mobandy78]

Maybe you got some water in the plugs? Maybe something to check?

[ponch]

I came home last night 750 miles. Hours of it through hard rain. At the last gas stop it started OK, but when taking off, it felt like it was missing. Once on the highway, it was fine. When I finally pulled in the driveway, was running bad at low revs, stumbling. Finally just sitting there it died, and now will not start.

I am thinking it may be the battery. I ran heated liner and gloves on the way home. Checking the battery, it is under 12.6v, sitting right at about 12.52v. I have it on the tender now. I tried jumping it off the truck, but it would not start.

What's next to check after the battery gets up to snuff, in terms of most likely.

I would think the Nomad's charging system could handle that load. What other electrical accessories do you have on the bike? That shouldn't be more than 10 amps.

[ponch]

Of course you could have unplugged the liner and gloves to see if it improved.

[Netnorske]

Riding home from the SW Rally last June....my bike started dropping a cylinder at morning startup, but after warming up would run/start fine all day. On my last day, close to my house, it dropped the rear cylinder entirely. Turned out to be a bad spark plug.

[cocheese72]

Riding home from the SW Rally last June....my bike started dropping a cylinder at morning startup, but after warming up would run/start fine all day. On my last day, close to my house, it dropped the rear cylinder entirely. Turned out to be a bad spark plug.

Now there are two plugs per cylinder, will it still run that bad, when one goes?

[cocheese72]

Did it run fine up and until the last fuel stop?

I believe so. The weather was so nasty, it could have been running bad before. But, I do remember when taking off from that stop, it stumbled immediately. I would think it would take a few miles to get that new fuel fully into the system. Maybe not.

What is the easiest way to get the remaining fuel out? I have a pump, but not sure if that is the best way.

[cocheese72]

Maybe you got some water in the plugs? Maybe something to check?

I did, pull the boots and look when I got home and that all looked dry. I can pull the plugs, and take a look at them.

[Loafer]

I would try a bottle of dry gas. Relpace the plugs. Check the air breather.

[cocheese72]

I came home last night 750 miles. Hours of it through hard rain. At the last gas stop it started OK, but when taking off, it felt like it was missing. Once on the highway, it was fine. When I finally pulled in the driveway, was running bad at low revs, stumbling. Finally just sitting there it died, and now will not start.

I am thinking it may be the battery. I ran heated liner and gloves on the way home. Checking the battery, it is under 12.6v, sitting right at about 12.52v. I have it on the tender now. I tried jumping it off the truck, but it would not start.

What's next to check after the battery gets up to snuff, in terms of most likely.

I would think the Nomad's charging system could handle that load. What other electrical accessories do you have on the bike? That shouldn't be more than 10 amps.

I have a fairing and radio, but had turned that off at this point. The heated gear was unplugged when I got in the driveway, and I just sat and watched it run like hell, till it died.

I should be close to 10 amps with gloves and liner, but under.

[cocheese72]

I would try a bottle of dry gas. Relpace the plugs. Check the air breather.

That sounds easy enough. I guess better than draining the tank. I only have about 75 miles on it. I think it was smoking too when I got home sitting in the driveway. I really wasn't paying attention to that, just glad to be home.

[cocheese72]

Should the Nomad start up fine, when the battery is under 12.6? It is close to that, but the book says it needs charging if lower. My 900 is sitting at 12.9.

[cocheese72]

Just cycled to miles on trip meter and noticed that the clock and miles have reset.

[ve3hzz]

Just cycled to miles on trip meter and noticed that the clock and miles have reset.

It maybe that from the last fuel stop to home your bike was not charging properly due to wet conditions. It may have then sputtered and died and not had enough juice to restart (below minimum for the ECU to energize the coils) Then after you've let it SIT it has built up charge again (recovered) which is why you see now that it has 12 V but the clock and odo. reset.

I also had my old bike do the same as yours. It turned out to be to much driving rain up under the tank on the coils and caused them to be damp and gave irratic idle but when REVED up it was fine. When I got to where we were heading that day it sputtered and died. Would not start. Left it over night and next morning till after lunch when it warmed up quite a bit and SUN shining on it at the campground and it fired up and ran fine. So it could be either or a combo of both these situations with yours. Maybe try a hairdryer on the coils or up under the tank and dry it out a bit if it's turning over now but just not starting and the battery shows 12+V now.

Scott

[mobandy78]

Just cycled to miles on trip meter and noticed that the clock and miles have reset.

Ahhh, the first warning signs of a battery going out. Time for a new one, it sounds like.

[cnc]

Just cycled to miles on trip meter and noticed that the clock and miles have reset.

Ahhh, the first warning signs of a battery going out. Time for a new one, it sounds like.

Battery going out, or maybe a poor connection at the battery.

If you are just using a battery tender to charge the battery it will take a long time.
I picked up bad gas last year. Within about ten minutes of filling up, the bike would stall. no sputtering, just stop like the key was turned off. It would then start up fine and run for a while with no issues and stall again. I put a fair bit of seafoam in the tank and ran the bike till it was almost empty. Next tank full I added a bit more seafoam and all was well.

[cocheese72]

Shouldn't it be able to start when jumped off the truck battery? If so, it didn't.

[dkdixie]

Scott, This sounds exactly like the stator problem I had with my Harley.

[waterman]

With the trip meter resetting, sounds like a connection with the battery or the negative ground on the frame. With the wet conditions you were driving in, this can make the connections worse.

[cocheese72]

Battery connections are tight on battery. Heet Iso added to fuel, but didn't start.

[ponch]

Just cycled to miles on trip meter and noticed that the clock and miles have reset.

Check your battery connections, particularly your ground.

[ponch]

Battery connections are tight on battery. Heet Iso added to fuel, but didn't start.

is the ground good where it bolts to? Positive as well?

[cocheese72]

Update

1. Battery voltage is about 12.2 now, was 12.58 before cranking.
2. Getting spark in plugs.
3. Plugs look wet, so should be getting fuel.
4. Heet was added to tank, along with some seafoam.
5. Battery connections are good. Ground to frame is good.
6. Tried to jump off the truck, but no luck.

Guess I could try to empty the tank.

[ve3hzz]

Update

1. Battery voltage is about 12.2 now, was 12.58 before cranking.
2. Getting spark in plugs.
3. Plugs look wet, so should be getting fuel.
4. Heet was added to tank, along with some seafoam.
5. Battery connections are good. Ground to frame is good.
6. Tried to jump off the truck, but no luck.

Guess I could try to empty the tank.

Before I'd empty the tank, I'd run a hair dryer or fan (prefer if it's warm) to try and dry it out. I still think it's moisture, and it could be spark, but a WEAK spark. If you pull a plug and put it up against the block when you CRANK IT is it a nice CRACKLE BLUE spark or a weak ass YELLOW one??? Makes a HUGE difference....still say it's SPARK and due to moisture...but what do I know!!!

[ponch]

Update

1. Battery voltage is about 12.2 now, was 12.58 before cranking.
2. Getting spark in plugs.
3. Plugs look wet, so should be getting fuel.
4. Heet was added to tank, along with some seafoam.
5. Battery connections are good. Ground to frame is good.
6. Tried to jump off the truck, but no luck.

Guess I could try to empty the tank.

If the plugs got really wet, take them out and dry them. Allow the cylinders to dry out too.

[cnc]

Update

1. Battery voltage is about 12.2 now, was 12.58 before cranking.
2. Getting spark in plugs.
3. Plugs look wet, so should be getting fuel.
4. Heet was added to tank, along with some seafoam.
5. Battery connections are good. Ground to frame is good.
6. Tried to jump off the truck, but no luck.

Guess I could try to empty the tank.

If the plugs got really wet, take them out and dry them. Allow the cylinders to dry out too.

Here are a few things I would consider. Plugs are wet, but wet with what? I would Take all the plugs out and turn over the engine a few times, this will blow the extra fuel out. try putting a match to a wet plug, does it burn? As pointed out dry and clean them. Maybe when you jumped the bike you did not get a good contact on the battery posts. Also you say the battery connections are tight, but did you remove both of them and clean? With the battery at 12.2 volts, I doubt you will have enough juice to crank the engine fast enough and provide enough power for a good spark. If you have access to a good charger, I would put the battery on charge over night and then get it load tested.
good luck.

[macmac]

QUIT with the truck and I hope the truck engine was NOT running.

Charge the battery again.

While you wait, pull off left ft and rr rear plug wires, next pull off the bake a lite resistor end rubber boots, and get the bloody rain water and condensation outta there.

Wipe up the rain mess around these plugs, and get it all dry.

Pull all 4 plugs check the other 2 plug boots, and set up a volt meter.

With the plugs pulled remove the charger, set the gear into neutral key ON, side stand down, red switch in RUN, clutch in, key ON, press start and hold it 10 seconds cranking the engine over with no plugs.

What IS the READING cranking?

Shut power off, charge the battery again.

With either new plugs or old ones warm them. If it's old ones place them on a brick and with a propane plumbers torch 'Paint' the flame on the carbons, and as they turn red wave the flame away, and watch the carbon leave.

These little bastards will stay some wicked hot for a while, so tack care to not get 0.5 degree burn http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

Do NOT jump bikes of friggin cars and trucks unless you like payin big bucks for stators and rec/regs! Just don't DO IT!

Besides that it makes me wanna come with a fish bat and teach lessons in pain http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

I like pain just fine so long as it is hurting somebody else http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

What I think is 1/2 or more spark is running to ground on crudlings inside the plug resistors.

IF after the engine starts, and the clock and trip meter re-set it's Battery Time, what FUN!

[Dave]

I've always been told that it's OK to jump start a bike off a car or truck as long as they are not running.

[redjay]

I think that is a sign that the battery is on its way out ?

[cocheese72]

Truck was not running. Running should put too much current into it. But not running, 12V is 12V no?

[ponch]

Truck was not running. Running should put too much current into it. But not running, 12V is 12V no?

Beaucoup amperage.

[billmac]

I feel certain the answer has already been provided as some of our best mechanics have weighed in.

We have seen the battery responsible before for these kind of issues. When I see 12.5 volts, or less, on a charged battery, I figure the battery is the problem or at least an issue. It seems it would be difficult to get a good connection with jumper cables on a mounted Nomad battery. Don't forget to ensure connections are clean and tight. Good Luck.

[ringadingh]

I would suspect that its the plug wires shorting when they get wet. A weak battery will make it hard to start as well, but bad wires will make it miss and stumble.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

I am thinking bad gas at the last fuel stop. Riding in all that rain something could have gotten moisture that shouldn't have. Weak battery.

The less cylinders an engine has the more you will notice when a spark plugs goes bad. I owned a 1972 Datsun and had a plug go bad. That sucker would only move at about 10 miles per hour. Almost didn't make it to the shop of a friend. I didn't know what was wrong. He figured it out and replaced the bad plug. Ran like a top after that.

[Idaho]

Bad gas, wet plugs, bad connection, weak battery. I think he has enough stuff to check. I'm just gonna wait to see what he finds now.

We are lucky to have so many great members here who are willing to help.

I'm not going to say what I think it is, 'cause it's in the list.

[cocheese72]

Bad gas, wet plugs, bad connection, weak battery. I think he has enough stuff to check. I'm just gonna wait to see what he finds now.

We are lucky to have so many great members here who are willing to help.

I'm not going to say what I think it is, 'cause it's in the list.

I think it is the battery. It was 12.78v this morning, but upon turning the ignition switch to on, it dropped to 12.2v, then when cranking was under 10v.

[cajun2wheels]

Have you battery load tested at a battery shop.I bet you have a bad cell.

[ponch]

Usually there are 6 cells @ 2.2-2.6v each. Res ipsa loquitur.

[danimal2]

Bad gas, wet plugs, bad connection, weak battery. I think he has enough stuff to check. I'm just gonna wait to see what he finds now.

We are lucky to have so many great members here who are willing to help.

I'm not going to say what I think it is, 'cause it's in the list.

I think it is the battery. It was 12.78v this morning, but upon turning the ignition switch to on, it dropped to 12.2v, then when cranking was under 10v.



I think we have a winner. When mine died I could charge it up to 12.8 VDC, but as soon as the starter button was hit it would drop down to 12.2 VDC. It would take a charge, but couldn't handle a load.

[cocheese72]

I think it is the battery. It was 12.78v this morning, but upon turning the ignition switch to on, it dropped to 12.2v, then when cranking was under 10v.



I think we have a winner. When mine died I could charge it up to 12.8 VDC, but as soon as the starter button was hit it would drop down to 12.2 VDC. It would take a charge, but couldn't handle a load.

I hope so. I can live with a battery dieing or picking up bad gas, but hate to think that riding in the rain could end up parking you.

[Loafer]

When you pull the battery check the wire connections under it.

[waterman]

Bad gas, wet plugs, bad connection, weak battery. I think he has enough stuff to check. I'm just gonna wait to see what he finds now.

We are lucky to have so many great members here who are willing to help.

I'm not going to say what I think it is, 'cause it's in the list.

I think it is the battery. It was 12.78v this morning, but upon turning the ignition switch to on, it dropped to 12.2v, then when cranking was under 10v.



No doubt about that with those results. The battery has gone to the grave.

[macmac]

I've always been told that it's OK to jump start a bike off a car or truck as long as they are not running.

This is true dave, it is. But when most people say ' I jumped off a car or truck.' ; they mean that vehical was running!

Real bad idea....... Today a modern vehical has a charging system in excess of 85 AMPS. A little rec / reg sees that kinda AMPS when it is rated at 20 to 40 AMPS Max, and something is gonna sizzel, and it will be on the bike side.

It will be the rec /reg(s) Nads have 2, or the stators, and these are pricey parts.

Take the 'other' vehicals charging system out of the picture and it's fine.

[macmac]

Truck was not running. Running should put too much current into it. But not running, 12V is 12V no?

I just had a orgasim http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif yeah! The Truck was not running!

That's fine!

Never ever jump a lesser charging system with a bigger one by much.

You can charge a bike battery that is dead because you left passing lights on 10 hours while you swapped spit with that pretty little piece of , of, of dam CRS.. http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

But with the bike key in your pocket, and the 'truck' running.

But once that key for the bike comes out of yer pocket the 'Truck' must be shut off. I use a ciggy butt as a timer, but fer me that ideer is c0oming to an end. down to 5 and counting. http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

[macmac]

Bad gas, wet plugs, bad connection, weak battery. I think he has enough stuff to check. I'm just gonna wait to see what he finds now.

We are lucky to have so many great members here who are willing to help.

I'm not going to say what I think it is, 'cause it's in the list.

I think it is the battery. It was 12.78v this morning, but upon turning the ignition switch to on, it dropped to 12.2v, then when cranking was under 10v.



Dying Batt big time...... You just did a load test, using the bike as a load.

Fer kicks go bump the key, so the engine makes 1 beat if you can controll it, with a volt meter on reading volts.

Let the hi beam be on too, and time how fast the load drops passing 10 dcv.

The bike with hi beam on will draw apx 10 amps. A super good batt should in theory run that load 1.8 hours. A super good batt should recover to 12.4 NOT on a charger in 24 hours.

This is assuming the battery is rated 18 Ah.

(some guys are saying they have 16 Ah battery's. I din't understand how that can be?)

[macmac]

Last: All you mugs should be checking the rt rr plug well for high tide, and inside the brown resistor boot for the creeping green mung..

Parked and cold in the rain water goes there! It just does. the left ft plug gets it too riding, but tends to steam off. Never the less some of that steam goes up in the resisitor ends..

[ponch]

I've always been told that it's OK to jump start a bike off a car or truck as long as they are not running.

This is true dave, it is. But when most people say ' I jumped off a car or truck.' ; they mean that vehical was running!

Real bad idea....... Today a modern vehical has a charging system in excess of 85 AMPS. A little rec / reg sees that kinda AMPS when it is rated at 20 to 40 AMPS Max, and something is gonna sizzel, and it will be on the bike side.

It will be the rec /reg(s) Nads have 2, or the stators, and these are pricey parts.

Take the 'other' vehicals charging system out of the picture and it's fine.

The RT has a 60 amp alternator. Looks like a small car alternator, has a belt too. still, never jump it with a 4 wheeled vehicle.

[cocheese72]

Dying Batt big time...... You just did a load test, using the bike as a load.

Fer kicks go bump the key, so the engine makes 1 beat if you can controll it, with a volt meter on reading volts.

Let the hi beam be on too, and time how fast the load drops passing 10 dcv.

The bike with hi beam on will draw apx 10 amps. A super good batt should in theory run that load 1.8 hours. A super good batt should recover to 12.4 NOT on a charger in 24 hours.


I am done messing with it for now. Battery should be here Monday. I will swap it and fire it, and report. I just got real lucky after riding that many miles in all that rain, she finally gave in the driveway. Kept me from having to get towed and trying to find some ratty hotel.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

You were very fortunate that you made it home. It could have been a lot worse.

[macmac]

Really check the plug resistors. the 2 on my bike in the depper wells were green on the brass ends, and from rain. In NH you don't ride unless you ride in rain.

The high side parked was the worst. That probably isn't the problem, but it will be a problem for all rain riders sooner nor later.

All you do is pull the plug wire off the plug, pull the rubber boot off the resistor end and look.

There is several cleaners like WD-40 to mist in there, you can plastic wire brush up in there, use a scribe to peck off green mung and then add many choices of anti water coatings to assist in keeping the brass clean and that hair clips spring bright. It's a carbon steel an can rust. If that hair pin rusts away, the resistor end(s) will jiggle on the plug(s).

[cocheese72]

Really check the plug resistors. the 2 on my bike in the depper wells were green on the brass ends, and from rain. In NH you don't ride unless you ride in rain.

The high side parked was the worst. That probably isn't the problem, but it will be a problem for all rain riders sooner nor later.

All you do is pull the plug wire off the plug, pull the rubber boot off the resistor end and look.

There is several cleaners like WD-40 to mist in there, you can plastic wire brush up in there, use a scribe to peck off green mung and then add many choices of anti water coatings to assist in keeping the brass clean and that hair clips spring bright. It's a carbon steel an can rust. If that hair pin rusts away, the resistor end(s) will jiggle on the plug(s).



Will do. Tomorrow will be a good day round here to get out in the garage and ride. Thankfully I have a 900 to roll on.

[macmac]

The how water gets there is rain gets in the deep wells parked and or riding. The water boils, and the steam passes by the rubber boot. Then when things cool off the water condenses and coats every bit of the plug top, and resistor. After time the green mung which is brass disease occures and adds that verdigris mix to the mess, which then acts as a path for the spark to follow and checks/tracks the bakalite resistor shell.

The tracking can ruin the resistor shell which isn't supposed to be a good path to ground, but it becomes one. At that point something needs to be done.

I am not sure if these are replaceable as stock or not. I think the shells screw off, but if not you can cut them off and install new NGK ends with care and some die-electric grease.

[cocheese72]

Pulled the old battery today, it was a Parts Unlimited RTX16-BS. Pretty sure this is too small of a battery for the FI Nomad. Anyone know the OEM manufacturer that is in these stock? It is not parts unlimited is it? Can't imagine this will be the second battery since 07.

[cnc]

The shop manual lists the original Battery as model ftz16-bs
capacity is 18ah.

[cocheese72]

Can't find specs the RTX16, but one site says:
FITS MODEL: VN1500G/J/L/R Drifter/Nomad 99-05 - PU RT sealed

[ponch]

Yuasa lists YTX20CH-BS as a high performance option. YTX16-BS is the normal battery. I would get the high performance one.

[VulcanE]

My factory battery that I replaced a couple of weeks ago had the manufacture name as "The Furukawa Battery Co. LTD." Made in Japan. 12V 18AH on it. It also had "FB Super MF" and the battery # is FTZ16-BS. The battery was 6 years old, and was stock in my '05 1600. The one I replaced it with was the Yuasa YTX20CH-BS. It was a perfect fit, exact same outside dimensions.

[danimal2]

Truck was not running. Running should put too much current into it. But not running, 12V is 12V no?

I use a ciggy butt as a timer, but fer me that ideer is c0oming to an end. down to 5 and counting. http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

You can do it mac. I smoked a pack and a half a day for 35 years and quit two years ago. Best thing I ever did. Really. I don't know if I'd still be alive had I not quit.

I got my last battery at batteries plus. Don't know if you have em in Canada or not. I'm running two of their batteries in my Kawi jetskis (going on their third season) and one in my Nomad. Seem to work pretty darned well.

[cocheese72]

My factory battery that I replaced a couple of weeks ago had the manufacture name as "The Furukawa Battery Co. LTD." Made in Japan. 12V 18AH on it. It also had "FB Super MF" and the battery # is FTZ16-BS. The battery was 6 years old, and was stock in my '05 1600. The one I replaced it with was the Yuasa YTX20CH-BS. It was a perfect fit, exact same outside dimensions.

So I would assume that this battery was already replaced, since 07, and now I am replacing it again in 11. Either way, I would avoid the parts unlimited batteries. I will take a better look at it tomorrow, but I think they are made in the USA.

[macmac]

coch, Did you ever have a battery like this FTZ16-BS? I am a little confused. If not, and that is the oem battery, it might be a dealer robbed peter to pay paul. Happens all the time.

I have seen dealers strip whole cars for parts before, I am tawkin brand new cars.

[cocheese72]

I picked up the bike with 20k on it from a dealer. It was voluntarily repo'd, I think is what they said. I don't know allot of details on it, but I have already fixed enough since last august to make me look at getting a very low mileage bike next time.

[mobandy78]

Order this battery from www.batterymart.com (http://www.batterymart.com) ... Yuasa YTX20CH-BS

Great service and the best price around! You should get it in 3 days.

[macmac]

coch, Fixed? My bike has that 20,000 and ain't nuthin been fixed. That seems odd to me.

All I have done is straight services except for replacing the ft fender, but I trashed that myself.

I don't count add-ons as any fixin ..

Thius year I need to do the fork bearing, just grease no notchyness, the swingarm and I will get a rubber boot this time. Make or buy cam chain extenders (Likey I will need em)

And probably install the Barnett Clutch Spring whether I need it or not.

This year I plan to pull a little trailer since friggin gas is so high, for simple shopping, and that clutch spring would help with that. But so far my clutch hasn't slipped.

I am still hoping my oem 2006 batt hangs in there. I plan to make that batt work for 8 years...

If it drops out before then I will buy a gel batt. I am not sure a lead acid batt will work well on Nomads personally. I see some mighty high charging rate read outs on my volt meter.

[cocheese72]

Didn't crank over after install. Drained the gas out, and put in a gallon of fresh. Still didn't crank. The starter relay was the worse looking of all the switches. Everything else looked really good. Battery voltage is sitting at 12.62 right now, so I have it on the float charger as the papers say it needs to be over 12.8. I will try it in the morning.

[cocheese72]

So I would assume that this battery was already replaced, since 07, and now I am replacing it again in 11. Either way, I would avoid the parts unlimited batteries. I will take a better look at it tomorrow, but I think they are made in the USA.

Nope Parts Unlimited, made in Taiwan.

[cocheese72]

Didn't crank over after install. Drained the gas out, and put in a gallon of fresh. Still didn't crank. The starter relay was the worse looking of all the switches. Everything else looked really good. Battery voltage is sitting at 12.62 right now, so I have it on the float charger as the papers say it needs to be over 12.8. I will try it in the morning.

This morning 12.81 volts, and finally FIRE!

[mikeyger]

YAHOOOOO! good riding!

[macmac]

Confused. To me crank means the engine turns, and so no crank means the starter doesn't turn the engine.

A engine that cranks, but won't start doesn't fire....

Did you take a sample of that gas?

Because 'we' have a low spot the fuel pump can't pick up fuel from, ALL Nomads have the chance of a water build from plain condensation. Then the water will collect in the low spot and then it might 'sip' water at times.

For a bike that is getting older say 06 and back, Once each year it might be a good idea to drain the tank out, holding it upside down.

Maybe to check, with all due care, a low tank, still on the bike could be laid over on the right like downed on moving blankets, then stood up on the stand and then have the rear end lifted so most of the fuel/ater?? if any ends up under the filler cap.

And or a bottle of dry gas dumped in a low tank and then filled to be about 3/4 tanks so it sloshes.

I have never done this, and my way would be just dump the tank in a clean pan with a gallon of gas in the tank. If then I saw rust flakes and that like i would get serious about it.

[cocheese72]

I meant it cranked but didn't start.

As for the gas, I dumped it in a bucket and may try to run in the lawnmower. As for the other suggestions of draining the tank, no thanks. I like keeping up with maintenance, but I am not wasting time on that. If it breaks I will fix it. I sometimes go over some of the other intervals occasionally as well and I am sure I change my oil less frequent that most and with a cheapo Super Tech oil filter, but hell, it's made to be ridden not on a lift all the time. When I see all the old Honda CB750s that look like they have been sitting in a junkyard and Harley Shovels out on the road, I tend to think they can take more than you think.

[macmac]

You don't live in the salt belt, nor do you see my weather. I was looking at my bike today, infact i left the trailer side door wide open Opps! It's gonna snow here tonight...

The bike was all sweaty this afternoon, the oil case and tank were making water like a frosted mug og beer on the 4th of July. My bike is making water in the gas. I can see exactly how much fuel is in the tank by where the condensation is.

That water made in the oil is a no problem as that will breath thru the intake with the breather hose, but that water will set about in the low spot and sooner or later start rust.

Knowing that it will is a key. First long ride on my season and HEET will get dumped in there. As I see things HEET by brand name is one of the better water mixers to fuel.

They don't make KREEM for no reason ya know. My Liberty bike got KREEMED just because. I did that before it could pinhole thru.

Now injection really hates water, rusty crud and anything tha will jam a injector just a little will ruin mix.

A good injector makes a fine mist like a garden hose nozzel set to fine mist. Most garden hoses don't have a perfect pattern but injectors sure do, and when they don't things get mucked up bad. A 3 micron goober stuffed in the injector tip will fubar things up and make most people scratch their head and wonder WTF is wrong.

What I think is based on about 60,000 tied up in Snap On and years as a service tech for Saab, Volvo, VW, Jag, and a lot more. That 60,000 is a wild guess and in 70's 80' money too boot http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

[ponch]

I meant it cranked but didn't start.

As for the gas, I dumped it in a bucket and may try to run in the lawnmower. As for the other suggestions of draining the tank, no thanks. I like keeping up with maintenance, but I am not wasting time on that. If it breaks I will fix it. I sometimes go over some of the other intervals occasionally as well and I am sure I change my oil less frequent that most and with a cheapo Super Tech oil filter, but hell, it's made to be ridden not on a lift all the time. When I see all the old Honda CB750s that look like they have been sitting in a junkyard and Harley Shovels out on the road, I tend to think they can take more than you think.


A couple things. One, you or I don't know what those owners have done to keep those bikes on the road or what problems they have had. That said, keeping the maintenance up doesn't require a lot of time or an inordinate amount of money. If you don't have the shop manual, one can be furnished if you like. It's a good starting point for maintenance schedules and how to do them. I would also add, since you've said you've had some issues, it may be a good time to go over the bike. Considering it's 4 years old, if you haven't done it yet, you should change the antifreeze, brake fluid, clutch master cylinder fluid, grease the driveshaft splines and change the plugs. If the final drive fluid hasn't been changed, do that too. Once you have that done, just make sure you change the oil every 5000 miles with a filter or every 6 months, which ever comes first. Use an oil that meets specifications and get a good filter. I don't want to start an oil or oil filter thread, but it really doesn't pay to skimp there. After that, just follow the schedule. I pretty much guarantee you'll get many years and miles from the Nomad if you do that.

[ponch]

You don't live in the salt belt, nor do you see my weather. I was looking at my bike today, infact i left the trailer side door wide open Opps! It's gonna snow here tonight...

The bike was all sweaty this afternoon, the oil case and tank were making water like a frosted mug og beer on the 4th of July. My bike is making water in the gas. I can see exactly how much fuel is in the tank by where the condensation is.

That water made in the oil is a no problem as that will breath thru the intake with the breather hose, but that water will set about in the low spot and sooner or later start rust.

Knowing that it will is a key. First long ride on my season and HEET will get dumped in there. As I see things HEET by brand name is one of the better water mixers to fuel.

They don't make KREEM for no reason ya know. My Liberty bike got KREEMED just because. I did that before it could pinhole thru.

Now injection really hates water, rusty crud and anything tha will jam a injector just a little will ruin mix.

A good injector makes a fine mist like a garden hose nozzel set to fine mist. Most garden hoses don't have a perfect pattern but injectors sure do, and when they don't things get mucked up bad. A 3 micron goober stuffed in the injector tip will fubar things up and make most people scratch their head and wonder WTF is wrong.

What I think is based on about 60,000 tied up in Snap On and years as a service tech for Saab, Volvo, VW, Jag, and a lot more. That 60,000 is a wild guess and in 70's 80' money too boot http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

Eastwood company makes a gas tank sealer that works well. I used it on a GPZ 750. http://search.eastwood.com/search?p=KK&srid=S1%2d2&lbc=eastwood&ts=custom&pw=gas%20tank&uid=350955290&isort=score&view=grid&w=Gas%20Tank%20Sealer%20Kit&rk=2

[macmac]

Ponch there is all sorts of gas tank sealers PQR is another good one as i hear it. I chose KREEM and for a bike that didn't need it, but 1981 gas tanks are getting hard to come by. Now it may never need a gas tank for so long as I live.

That bike came right off a scrap heap in a car junk yard and so I never knew it's history.

I was about to paint the bike as it is today, and wanted to be dammed sure the gas tank was never going to be any issue first. I guess if i paid to have that bike painted it might have cost upwards of 3 grand. As I am in no possition to throw out resouces, that one called money, for me KREEM was a wise investment.

Been a while since I put up pics of Liberty.... Newer guys might not have seen these...

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll275/Mac_Muz/Liberty/f2b6.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll275/Mac_Muz/Liberty/d8f4.jpg

Boys don't try this at home http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif it's in the shower
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll275/Mac_Muz/Liberty/c418.jpg

[cocheese72]

I would also add, since you've said you've had some issues, it may be a good time to go over the bike. Considering it's 4 years old, if you haven't done it yet, you should change the antifreeze, brake fluid, clutch master cylinder fluid, grease the driveshaft splines and change the plugs. If the final drive fluid hasn't been changed, do that too. Once you have that done, just make sure you change the oil every 5000 miles with a filter or every 6 months, which ever comes first. Use an oil that meets specifications and get a good filter.

Don't take my comments to mean I skip on maintenance, because it is quite the opposite. Since the August 2010 purchase, I have completed that entire list. My oil changes are set at 5k, and the filter while low cost, seemed to get very good reviews. Shell Rotella T6 is in it now. If I did buy another, I would get one with less miles... unless I got it from Macmac.

When cleaning up the wiring on this battery job, I found a mess of wires, tracing them to the rear fender. There I found a nice huge piece of steel coming down from the fender struts, with two bolts behind the rear wheel. It looks like the wiring was for trailer lights, and the steel is for a hitch. I saw it when I did a rear tire, but didn't think much about it, focusing on the tire swap. May look into a receiver or trailer now. Looks like it could tow a car, he went overkill on the steel.