Saddlebag Top Rails

[nomadbehappy]

Well after sitting and looking at the saddlebag top rails for the past week, and rereading the advice from others a few times I sat down today and installed them. Followed the advice of others, and yes MAC I threw away the washers that came with it and got some new faucet washers. I have to say the hardest part is making that first hole in the top of your saddlebag. I measured once, twice, checked it, double checked it, lined up the drill, then checked it again! When I was absolutely positive I had it lined up right I put a hole in the saddlebag. It wasnt as hard as I thought to get everything lined up, but it definitely is scary to make that first hole.

Thanks everyone for the advice on how to do it, they look great!

[ndbigfish]

The only draw back is cleaning under and around them. Enjoy. We are waiting for the pics. http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

[pirate]

Ah yes, I remember my escalated blood pressure when I installed mine! You're right, that first hole is the toughest to drill. After that, you're all in! Congrats on the install!

[Netnorske]

Nice job! They do look great, but for sure cleaning around and under them is a PIA. So what's next.....bottom guard rails...?? It's a long list you know.... http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif!

[cajun2wheels]

I don't have saddlebag top rails but I do have one on my rear fender.Cleaning is not really a problem.I give it a shot of detail spray and slide my microfiber towel all the way through from one side to the other and do my best shoe shine boy imitation.Works for me.

[nomadbehappy]

I don't have saddlebag top rails but I do have one on my rear fender.Cleaning is not really a problem.I give it a shot of detail spray and slide my microfiber towel all the way through from one side to the other and do my best shoe shine boy imitation.Works for me.

Great idea I will have to try that when I need to clean under them

[cnc]

I don't have saddlebag top rails but I do have one on my rear fender.Cleaning is not really a problem.I give it a shot of detail spray and slide my microfiber towel all the way through from one side to the other and do my best shoe shine boy imitation.Works for me.

Great idea I will have to try that when I need to clean under them

I do the same sort of thing with a small chamois when I dry my bike after washing.

[dakota7557]

Great Job, did mine last year and it's certainly a relief when it comes together...They really dress up the bags though along with protecting the top. Jody

[canuckrider]

For cleaning under the saddlebag rails and any of the other tight areas of the bike check out the EZ Detail Bike Brush at http://www.bikebrush.com . It's got very soft bristles and can get into the really tight places. I picked one up at the bike show in January and have used it only once (hey how often do you need to wash a bike in Alberta during the winter??) but it seems to do good job.

Their website shows only 1 size but at the bike show they had the large and a smaller version available.

[ballast]

http://s2.images.proboards.com/cool.gifGood Job!

I didn't really calm down until the eigth hole was done and I was looking at a completed job. I am going to take them off and wax the heck out of the bags before I start riding. I figure that will make cleaning a little easier.

[brote]

I can remember measuring the locations over and over. Once I drilled the first holes I was committed and glad I did it. I was always hitting the top of the bag with my boot. I use the micro fiber and detail spray to clean under the rails and that seem to work very well. You will enjoy having them installed.

[cajun2wheels]

I have been thing about some bag top rails myself.There is a guy always selling them for $39.00+shipping on Ebay.Has anyone tried these?

[nomadtom69]

You get them done and are proud you did not mess up and take pics of them and post on here and THEN someone replys You put them on backwards and your heart jumps out of your chest untill some one says they are kidding http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

[nomadbehappy]

I have been thing about some bag top rails myself.There is a guy always selling them for $39.00+shipping on Ebay.Has anyone tried these?

They are the ones I bought

[joe3407nomad]

There the ones I bought also. For the bucks they are pretty good!
Ballast, when I put my rails on they were really tight, had to coak them to fasten them, I won't take them off to clean the bags, I'm gonna wax around them.

[Monkeyman]

Late to the game but the $39 ones are what I bought, too. Should get them today.

[macmac]

Lets us have a picture or a link to these..... If they have any rubber seals, they are likey junk. That means today they look fine, but will look like hell and split inside 1 year, and you won't be able to buy anymore.

There are 2 rubbers to use. 1 is roofing screw rubber washers which last no less than 25 years, and 2 the faucet washers.

I used the roofing screw type because i had them.

The curve changes where to drill, so you must one way or another account for the height of the rubber spacers you use.

If you simply drop the rack on, line it up and drill, what happens next will make you sick.

You will find the holes you drilled are too close together for use with which ever rubber washers you chose. At that point you will have no choice but to make bigger holes.

The fast way to do this is to tape the paint with a few rows of masking tape 2 inches wide. This allows pencil markings. Once the rack is lined up you can drill the 2 holes as a pair with out any worry. Then mount the rack easy, like finger tight for those 2 bolts and figure the last solo bolt.

That is if this rack has 3 points to stand on. My rack is Kawii after market, which may or not be like your racks.

For guys who fail to consider the arc change and drill they are some wicked bummed out to have to enlarge any holes. I suggest you don't, and get it right the first time.

Not knowing what these are, I really suggest you are dead sure these are what you will live with. There is no real way to go back and no way to change out what you mount.

[Monkeyman]

Mac---Got mine yesterday. I'll mount them as soon as I can get the stickers off the bags. They seem to be fairly decent quailty although the "rubber" (more like hard plastic) spacers are crap. I can see those rubbing through the bags in about a year. Heading to town today to find some washers and some painters tape (on the bike, of course). Here's a link to the racks http://www.ebay.com/itm/SADDLEBAG-TOP-RAILS-KAWASAKI-VULCAN-NOMAD-/200666261278?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2eb8a4271e

I'll measure once, then twice (then 3 or 4 more times) then drill the back 2 holes. Hold the front washer in place, then remove the rack and mark the spot under the front washer. Should be dead on then.

[macmac]

That wasn't what I was expecting..... The bag rails look just like Kawii after market.

So yeah the method you under stand is correct. One more point is these rails get the mounts welded on by a man I think. So far no 2 racks are exactly the same. Your 2 racks are probably not exactly the same.

Once you set up a rack ready to drill do not switch sides ever again. I suggest a bit of tape on one rack, and none on the other. Lets just say the bit of tape is the left rack forever more.

Last take a real hard look at the mounts (welded tube nuts) I have seen many not plumb. All of this can be adjusted for, but if you are not ready to see bolts going in at odd angles it is a little frustrating. I hope yours are plumb.

At this point I am probably prechin' to the choir, but when drilling use a 1/16th bit first as if you were drilling 1/2" steel plate.

This will give the next bit a path to follow, and doing this will reduce cracking and splitting, Once the holes are sized so the bolts can pass, BY HAND with a drill 2 sizes bigger i chamfer the holes inside and outside, for the reason to get rid of 90 degree edges on the hole shoulders. This reduces the chances of bolt threads grabbing a 90 degree corner. Mostly boat builders use this when the boat has more meaning for what ever reason and the builder wants top quailty work.

Driving a long sliver out of a mahogany deck is verbotten.