I think I may have a problem

[danimal2]

Little history.

1999 Nomad 1500 with original 5400 miles on it.

Yesterday was my first real ride other than around
the neighborhood etc. due to my not having a cycle
endorsement yet.

Started my day by changing oil. First change listed in
the owner's manual was at 900 miles so this batch of
oil had 4500 miles on it. Cleaned the catch screen and
found just a tiny bit of silicone in it. New champion filter
and 3.5 quarts of Mobil 1 full synthetic 10W40. Topped
off the coolant reservoir with a 50/50 mixture of Prestone
and distilled water. Hit the carb with a bit of carb cleaner
and put 3 ounces of Seafoam in a fresh tank of 91 octane.

Bike was running awesome in the morning. Enjoying a
little 166 mile jaunt to one of our local lakes. Lots of
twisties on a good road. Having a blast. Coming back
up hill from the lake, it's getting pretty warm out. I start
noticing that if I roll the throttle on at about 50 mph in
5th gear I'm getting some spark knock. I carefully avoid
doing that until I'm back in a little town. Stop and take
a break. Start off again and the bike is cool and runs
perfect. I can again lug it like you should be able to
with a big V twin. Get down the road a ways and once
she heats up the spark knock returns. Again only when
lugging it.

Get it home and pull the plugs fearing the worst. Plugs
look like new as they should with only 5400 miles on
them. What color they had was right on and no signs of detonation. Check plug gap and they're all within spec
.033".

So rode about 66 miles today and the same deal. Double
checked everything and let it cool. It runs perfect again. Purposely forced it to lug hard when cold trying to make
it ping and nothing. It's fine unless it's warmed up on a
longer ride.

Here's what the book says.

Abnormal Engine Noise:
Knocking :
IC igniter trouble
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Fuel poor quality
Spark plug incorrect
Overheating

Overheating sounds right especially since it runs perfect
when cold.

Couple odd things though. The fan never kicked on (even
if it wasn't overheating shouldn't the fan come on once in
a while). I never got an idiot light telling me it's overheating.
No coolant puking out. Nothing to really indicate overheating other than the spark knock thing while lugging.

Anybody ever hear of such a problem before?

Sorry for the long winded thing, but this is scary for me.
Don't want to blow up my new to me bike.

Thanks to any and all for suggestions.

I'm going to drain and flush the cooling system. Visually
check the water pump, and see what's up with the fan.

[Cajunrider]

Our Nomads won't lug like a HD. They weren't designed to. My '07 can stand a little more lugging since opening up the intake and exhaust and installing the fuel processor. Before installing those mods, the rpm's had to be kept up to avoid pinging.

[minst7877]

I would start with the thermostat and make sure it is working.

DC

[Top Cat]

I would quit luggin the freekin bike ::)

[blowndodge]

Try running premium if you have't already..

[cactusjack]

Little history.

1999 Nomad 1500 with original 5400 miles on it.

Yesterday was my first real ride other than around the neighborhood etc. due to my not having a cycle endorsement yet.

Started my day by changing oil. First change listed in the owner's manual was at 900 miles so this batch of oil had 4500 miles on it. Cleaned the catch screen and found just a tiny bit of silicone in it. New champion filter and 3.5 quarts of Mobil 1 full synthetic 10W40. Topped off the coolant reservoir with a 50/50 mixture of Prestone and distilled water. Hit the carb with a bit of carb cleaner and put 3 ounces of Seafoam in a fresh tank of 91 octane.

Bike was running awesome in the morning. Enjoying a little 166 mile jaunt to one of our local lakes. Lots of twisties on a good road. Having a blast. Coming back up hill from the lake, it's getting pretty warm out. I start noticing that if I roll the throttle on at about 50 mph in 5th gear I'm getting some spark knock. I carefully avoid doing that until I'm back in a little town. Stop and take a break. Start off again and the bike is cool and runs perfect. I can again lug it like you should be able to with a big V twin. Get down the road a ways and once she heats up the spark knock returns. Again only when lugging it.

Get it home and pull the plugs fearing the worst. Plugs look like new as they should with only 5400 miles on them. What color they had was right on and no signs of detonation. Check plug gap and they're all within spec .033".

So rode about 66 miles today and the same deal. Double checked everything and let it cool. It runs perfect again. Purposely forced it to lug hard when cold trying to make it ping and nothing. It's fine unless it's warmed up on a longer ride.

Here's what the book says.

Abnormal Engine Noise:
Knocking :
IC igniter trouble
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Fuel poor quality
Spark plug incorrect
Overheating

Overheating sounds right especially since it runs perfect when cold.

Couple odd things though. The fan never kicked on (even if it wasn't overheating shouldn't the fan come on once in a while). I never got an idiot light telling me it's overheating. No coolant puking out. Nothing to really indicate overheating other than the spark knock thing while lugging.

Anybody ever hear of such a problem before?

Sorry for the long winded thing, but this is scary for me. Don't want to blow up my new to me bike.

Thanks to any and all for suggestions.

I'm going to drain and flush the cooling system. Visually check the water pump, and see what's up with the fan.

Nomads are notorious for pinging. Some are worse than others. Mine was horrible from the day I brought it home until I added a fuel processor to richen the mixture. It still pings on a really hot day.

Check your cooling system to make sure there's not another problem causing the pinging. It hasn't been hot enough here to really cause the fan to run a lot. This time of year, my fan only kicks on if I'm stuck in traffic idling for an extended period of time.

[schoeney]

Sounds like you need one of our great gearheads. I am not one. But I can tell you the simple things I would consider but keep in mind I don't know diddly compared to most of the guys on this board.

Does the 99 have a "Real" choke? Sounds like it may be choking itself out? Play with it? My 2003 has a "fake" one since it is fuel injected.

Could the Seafoam loosened up some goodies in the fuel system causing some clogging?

Is the bike stock or do you have big air or fuel processor to muddy the waters?

My fan will kick on when the bike heats up, especially when doing stop and go in town.

Someone smarter than me (that would be the very next poster) will chime in with better ideas.

Good Luck

P.S. While I was typing I see CJ and BD chimed in...you are getting some good input now.

[audiogooroo]

Yeah, downshift. At 50 mph you should be in 4th (or even 3rd) if you're rolling on it.
I usually don't grab 5th gear until over 60. No worries, your Nomad will love the high rpms!

[Netnorske]

Sounds like you need one of our great gearheads. I am not one. But I can tell you the simple things I would consider but keep in mind I don't know diddly compared to most of the guys on this board.

Does the 99 have a "Real" choke? Sounds like it may be choking itself out? Play with it? My 2003 has a "fake" one since it is fuel injected.

Could the Seafoam loosened up some goodies in the fuel system causing some clogging?

Is the bike stock or do you have big air or fuel processor to muddy the waters?

My fan will kick on when the bike heats up, especially when doing stop and go in town.

Someone smarter than me (that would be the very next poster) will chime in with better ideas.

Good Luck

P.S. While I was typing I see CJ and BD chimed in...you are getting some good input now.




but.....Schoeney did stay in a Holiday Inn Express...... ;) http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif!

[AlabamaNomadRider]

What is your meaning of lugging? Lugging to me is if you are in 4th or 5th gear and running 20 MPH. What you were doing was giving it throttle. If you were over 50 or 60 MPH in 5th gear you should have had no problem. Probably what you heard was the pinging that so many Nomads are notorious for. I would do as Brad sasy and try higher octane gas. Also I would install a digital processor to help eliminate the ping. With the digital fuel processor you should be able to run the bike fine on 91 octane and maybe even 87.

[leadbelly]

I am pretty sure your fan should have came on at some point. Mine does even on cold days if I have gone for a little run and let it idle for a minuet or two the fan will kick in.

Maybe check your wiring and thermostat if you haven't already.

[ringadingh]

The fan won't or shouldn't come on most times unless your in stop and go heavy traffic, or idling a long time on a fairly hot day.
You shouldn't lug the motor like that either rolling on from 50mph in 5th, downshift first, as has been mentioned.
You won't be able to install a fuel processor on your bike since you have a carb. Try high test gas as also mentioned.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

What was I thinking? I forgot you said it was a carbed model. Sorry about the mention of the digital fuel processor. No place to hook that sucker up on your bike.

[minst7877]

Those digital fuel processors don't work worth a c%$p on a carbed bike. 99's still had a carb and to do anything to them they have to be rejetted. Not a job for the novice as far as I'm concerned. I run midgrade in mine and do just fine with it. Until you pull into a strange location and get a tankfull of c&*p. These engines do like to turn 2000+ rpm's when they are running down the road and the pinging will start if they are run too slow in the rpm range. DC

[MAS Tequila]

Use fifth gear as if it were an overdrive. I won't shift into fifth unless I'm doing at least 60-65.

Take it out and bounce it off the rev limiter a few times. And bounce it now and then to clear the carbon.

This IS NOT a low rpm mill like a HD. The four valve ohc just begs to be let off the leash.

Learn to ride it like it's meant to be ridden.

MT

[danimal2]

O.k. some good input and I appreciate everyone taking the time to write.

First I was running premium gas in it. Scary to think how bad this would be on 87 octane.

After re-reading some of your responses I guess I failed to communicate how easy it is to make ping. The term "lugging it" apparently conjures up pictures of me riding around in 5th gear at 20 mph and rolling on the gas then wondering why it's pinging.
Not the case at all. Even when I try to keep it from happening by riding at a higher rpm, it still does it.

The hotter it gets the worse it gets. When I realized I had the problem I was really taking it easy on it. Not making it lug hard, but just rolling on the throttle to accelerate the slightest bit would make it ping. Even when down shifting and trying not to, it would still do it. It just seems too ping way to easy.

Maybe that's the nature of the beast, but it just doesn't seem right.

If this is really detonation or pre-ignition, it's not a good thing from my experience.

I'm definitely going to check out the cooling system. It'll give me something to do and at least I'll have peace of mind that it's o.k.

Also think I'll try a heat range colder on the spark plugs.

The book makes reference to baseline timing and a throttle position sensor of sorts used to affect timing via how far open the throttle is. In most applications whenever you have excessive knocking, pinging, pre-ignition or whatever you want to term it, the fix is to retard the timing. I did find ignition timing in the book, but only how to check it, not adjust which leads me to believe they don't want you to mess with it?

Thanks again.

[blowndodge]

Colder spark plugs will do nothing for pinging. Spark plugs heat range is for keeping the plug clean and not internal temps..

[danimal2]

Colder spark plugs will do nothing for pinging. Spark plugs heat range is for keeping the plug clean and not internal temps..

I guess it depends on who you talk to. This tuner seems to think otherwise. I'm not trying to be argumentative, just want to cover all my bases and try everything.

"Black or brown specs: This is an indication of detonation usually caused by too hot of a plug, drop one or two heat ranges and it should go away. The plug gets so hot that it will start to detonate the fuel before the ignition fires, this causes a double flame front and reduces the efficiency of the combustion process as these two flame fronts battle each other in the combustion chamber. The black spots are the result of the fuel deposits being burned onto the porcelain by the double flame front. Once you cool down the plug and remove the secondary ignition source you can re-set your timing to produce the correct combustion chamber temp for optimum power.

I've heard 100's of so called tuners and engine builders tell people that this is normal and nothing to worry about......WRONG. Do not underestimate the damage that this condition can do to your engine, drop the plug heat range."

[ringadingh]

You should also check the main jet in the carb, it may be running to lean and requires a larger jet. Someone could have changed it it the past and it would have run fine at their elevation, but is no good where you are. Its worth taking a look and verifying. Also check for a vaccum leak, you may have a cracked or disconnected line somewhere.

[upside22]

I don't think pre-ignition causes the engine to "ping". It will make the engine rut very hot which should start the fan to come on. If you are hearing a ping it is probably what is called detonation which can be caused by too low of an octane gas, timing too advanced, or too lean of a mixture. Typically too hot of a plug will cause pre-ignition and not detonation.

Are you sure you are hearing pinging? My 2007 Nomad 1600 is a very noisy engine when it gets warmed up. There is a lot of mechanical stuff going on right there at the top of the engine.

I would try changing brands of gas first and, if that doesn't help, get some octane booster and see if that helps.

If it doesn't you may have a jetting problem in the carb or a timing issue.

[danimal2]

I don't think pre-ignition causes the engine to "ping". It will make the engine rut very hot which should start the fan to come on. If you are hearing a ping it is probably what is called detonation which can be caused by too low of an octane gas, timing too advanced, or too lean of a mixture. Typically too hot of a plug will cause pre-ignition and not detonation.

Are you sure you are hearing pinging? My 2007 Nomad 1600 is a very noisy engine when it gets warmed up. There is a lot of mechanical stuff going on right there at the top of the engine.

I would try changing brands of gas first and, if that doesn't help, get some octane booster and see if that helps.

If it doesn't you may have a jetting problem in the carb or a timing issue.

Yes, sorry for using improper terminology. Probably not pre-ignition, but spark knock, pinging.

Yeah, pretty sure. I'm no ace mechanic, but have been around motors quite a bit and have heard it and know what it sounds like.



You should also check the main jet in the carb, it may be running to lean and requires a larger jet. Someone could have changed it it the past and it would have run fine at their elevation, but is no good where you are. Its worth taking a look and verifying. Also check for a vaccum leak, you may have a cracked or disconnected line somewhere.

That's an excellent possiblity. The pipes are an aftermarket Cobra slash cut true dual. Doubt if the bike was rejetted after they were installed. I know from my dirtbike days that a pipe change usually mandated a rejet. That might be worth looking into.

I also see that Cobra offers a jet kit as an add on for this set of pipes. I've emailed them to ask what the jet sizes in the kit are.

[Dave]

.......due to my not having a cycle
endorsement yet.


Personally, I would not ride without a license. If you get in an accident and it's your fault your insurance may not cover it. And in today's society you'll probably get sued. I know I'd come after you for everything you owned.

[danimal2]

.......due to my not having a cycle
endorsement yet.


Personally, I would not ride without a license. If you get in an accident and it's your fault your insurance may not cover it. And in today's society you'll probably get sued. I know I'd come after you for everything you owned.

I have a license with motorcycle endorsement. I just didn't have one at the time of purchase.

Thanks for your comment and concern.

P.S. I don't have much to come after. http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

[ponch]

Go back over your work. You said you topped off the antifreeze. Check the cap and the level again. Have you drained the carb? If you get water/crap, it will sit in the bottom where the main jet is. Ethanol is very hard on carburetors.

I am sure you will find out what the problem is. Let us know what you find.

[Dave]

P.S. I don't have much to come after. http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

Damn! Back to the lottery for me.

[danimal2]

Go back over your work. You said you topped off the antifreeze. Check the cap and the level again. Have you drained the carb? If you get water/crap, it will sit in the bottom where the main jet is. Ethanol is very hard on carburetors.

I am sure you will find out what the problem is. Let us know what you find.



Yes, checked the anti-freeze againlast night. It's real hard to see as I used Prestone and when mixed with water is hard to discern through the pastic. I even took the side cover and rubber cap off and looked inside to make sure. It seems to be fine.

The fuel thing had occured to me especially since the guy I bought it from only put 4900 miles on it in 6 years time. We also use the ethanol here in Arizona.



P.S. I don't have much to come after. http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

Damn! Back to the lottery for me.

Yes I think your chances would be better!

Kudos to CorbraUSA's tech support guys. I emailed him this morning and he responded twice with the information I was looking for. There are a total of 8 main jets in their kit ranging from a 128 to a 140. Also has a different needle in the kit. Stock size main jet is a 142 according to the book.

These guys are a class act. The bike is used, the pipes are used. At best they'll make $75 on a jetting kit. They still took the time to respond............twice and I thank them for that.

Has any body done any jetting on a carb'd model? Is there any way that I can get a read on the jet size without having to tear the carb apart to see it?

Thanks

[timebandit]

As mentioned, "Stop lugging"

Out on a cruise, at 50mph 4th gear, 65-70 5th.

When I really ride mine, at 55mph I'm just shifting to 3rd gear http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

They like rpm and it keeps the carbs clean.

Run The high octane stuff in it, ;)more money but more fun.

Do you still have the"goat bladder"(catalytic converter anti-polution-crap)??

If yes, this could be clogged and preventing exhaust from free flowing...

Open up the exhaust ;)and let those fumes go out...

[conan48]

You also mentioned that you put seafoam in the fuel. Before I tried anything else, I would run the tank dry to get rid of the seafoam and current fuel, then fuel up with a different brand of premium fuel and see what happens. Let us know how it works out!

[danimal2]

As mentioned, "Stop lugging"

Out on a cruise, at 50mph 4th gear, 65-70 5th.

When I really ride mine, at 55mph I'm just shifting to 3rd gear http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

They like rpm and it keeps the carbs clean.

Run The high octane stuff in it, ;)more money but more fun.

Do you still have the"goat bladder"(catalytic converter anti-polution-crap)??

If yes, this could be clogged and preventing exhaust from free flowing...

Open up the exhaust ;)and let those fumes go out...

Unless I run avgas or race fuel, I'm running the best I can get at the pump with 91 octane and will continue to do so from this day forward. Especially considering the propensity for ping. It costs another buck per fill. Big deal. I'd be curious to see what some 110 race fuel would do. Wonder if it would go away.

True dual Cobra slash cut (no goat's belly/bladder or whatever).

I have to wonder if this part got through.............it runs perfect when cold. PERFECT. If I could get this thing to run hot like it does cold, I'll forever tout the fantasticalness of the Nomad. Ok. I might anyway, but moreso if the above comes true.

I think we're getting caught up in semantics here. The lugging was overstated and is getting beat to death. I guess I could replace it with "when I try to accelerate at a normal rate/rpm it pings". Yesterday I purposely kept my rpm up and in numerically lower gear in an effort to not ping, and it still does it. If I can't roll on power in third gear at 60 mph without it pinging, I think there's a problem.


You also mentioned that you put seafoam in the fuel. Before I tried anything else, I would run the tank dry to get rid of the seafoam and current fuel, then fuel up with a different brand of premium fuel and see what happens. Let us know how it works out!

Good point. Easy and fun to do. Who knows maybe it's just that simple.

Just came back in from a little blast up the road. Of course it's cold..........and or course it is running Purrrrfect. I've got about 1/3 of a tank left. I burned two tanks, but both had the same amount of seafoam in em.

[Top Cat]

If I can't roll on power in third gear at 60 mph without it pinging, I think there's a problem.

I think you are right. I thought you were lugging the engine. Roll on at 60 in 3rd is not lugging.

[danimal2]

Yeah TC I thought we were getting caught up in semantics there. Again, just came in from a ride to the grocery store and it ran perfect.

It's definitely a heat related thing that doesn't rear it's ugly head until you've been in the saddle for an hour or so.

I love the thing other than this one little detail. I'll probably have them bury me with the bike beneath if I can solve it.

[blowndodge]

Wasn't trying to say you or anyone recommending going colder on the plugs but....

90% of us Nomad owners bikes run great cold and when the heat up they ping like crazy.

Us FI guys installed a processor and took care of it.

NGK 6's is what the Manual calls for in all years from 99 through 08. Can't see how Kawasaki would keep putting in plugs that cause pinging for so long...

BTW,, I put in NGK 8's and it did nothing for the ping and the plug looked like sh*t after 1000 miles before the fuel processor..

Food for thought.

[danimal2]

Wasn't trying to say you or anyone recommending going colder on the plugs but....

90% of us Nomad owners bikes run great cold and when the heat up they ping like crazy.

Us FI guys installed a processor and took care of it.

NGK 6's is what the Manual calls for in all years from 99 through 08. Can't see how Kawasaki would keep putting in plugs that cause pinging for so long...

BTW,, I put in NGK 8's and it did nothing for the ping and the plug looked like sh*t after 1000 miles before the fuel processor..

Food for thought.

Desperate times call for desperate measures. Plugs are pretty cheap. If they don't work, I'll go back to what was in it.

Thanks for posting.

[ndbigfish]

FWIW when I put V&H pipes on my carburetted 99' it didn't run quite right, so I had it re-jetted. The jet kit was a Factory Pro kit. I believe the pilot jet was #42, the needle was replaced and clipped in position #2 from the top and the main jet was changed to #125. Fuel screw was about 3.5 turns. The spark plug ended up an NKG DPR6EA. I used 87 octane fuel and had no pinging or problems; always run good hot or cold. Never a mileage champ however.

Now I should clarify that I had no issues until I started lurking around here, then all of sudden I needed fuel injection and lots of performance mods. That is why I have an 03' now too. http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

[ringadingh]

There is no way to check the main jet without taking the bottom bowl nut off the carb. Sometimes you can get the nut off and be able to check with a mirror to read the # on the jet.
Other times you have to remove the carb off the flange and take the bottom off.

[danimal2]

FWIW when I put V&H pipes on my carburetted 99' it didn't run quite right, so I had it re-jetted. The jet kit was a Factory Pro kit. I believe the pilot jet was #42, the needle was replaced and clipped in position #2 from the top and the main jet was changed to #125. Fuel screw was about 3.5 turns. The spark plug ended up an NKG DPR6EA. I used 87 octane fuel and had no pinging or problems; always run good hot or cold. Never a mileage champ however.

Now I should clarify that I had no issues until I started lurking around here, then all of sudden I needed fuel injection and lots of performance mods. That is why I have an 03' now too. http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

Thanks for your input. So it can be done then. Thanks for that.

I don't care about mileage as long as it does better than my truck which is about 14-15 http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif. Would also be happy to run premium fuel in it if it needs it. No problem with that.

Got the performance thing out of my system a long time ago. I bought this for putting around on. If I wanted performance, I would've bought a crotch rocket.

Not kidding.... if I can get rid of this problem that's all I need. I'll be happy as can be with this bike.



There is no way to check the main jet without taking the bottom bowl nut off the carb. Sometimes you can get the nut off and be able to check with a mirror to read the # on the jet.
Other times you have to remove the carb off the flange and take the bottom off.

Thanks for that as well. There's hope and that's what I'm looking for.

I emailed Mike from CobraUSA for the pdf jet installation instructions. If this guy sends me what I've asked for I'll be amazed and sing the praises to any and all that are looking for a set of pipes and good (scratch that........excellent) tech support.

[ringadingh]

Im sure if you stick with it you will eventually figure it out.
Just check everything you do really well. Sometimes its hard to see stuff in those cramped areas on the bike.

[upside22]

Doesn't the carb have a needle that also adjusts the fuel flow based on throttle position? My dirt bike used to. You might be able to just set the needle to a higher position to let more fuel through at any specific throttle position. If you are on the ragged edge of pinging that might be enough to fix it without actually changing jets.

I would also see about getting a can of octane boost to add to a tank full of gas and see if that makes any difference. If it does, you'll have one more data point to base a decision on. If it doesn't help then you haven't lost much.

[ponch]

Doesn't the carb have a needle that also adjusts the fuel flow based on throttle position? My dirt bike used to. You might be able to just set the needle to a higher position to let more fuel through at any specific throttle position. If you are on the ragged edge of pinging that might be enough to fix it without actually changing jets.

I would also see about getting a can of octane boost to add to a tank full of gas and see if that makes any difference. If it does, you'll have one more data point to base a decision on. If it doesn't help then you haven't lost much.

These bikes don't have high compression. If they are pinging, it's from running too lean.

[danimal2]

Doesn't the carb have a needle that also adjusts the fuel flow based on throttle position? My dirt bike used to. You might be able to just set the needle to a higher position to let more fuel through at any specific throttle position. If you are on the ragged edge of pinging that might be enough to fix it without actually changing jets.

I would also see about getting a can of octane boost to add to a tank full of gas and see if that makes any difference. If it does, you'll have one more data point to base a decision on. If it doesn't help then you haven't lost much.

I believe you're right on this. However, I'm waiting for the instructions regarding the jetting kit. I want to know what I'm up against before going ahead. Also trying to avoid having to take things apart multiple times just to try it and see.

I'm assuming that the instructions will show a particular jet/needle combination that should work at my altitude rather than guessing and hoping to get it right.

From all that I've read on this post (or at least my interpretation of it) most of these bikes run on the ragged edge. Mine is over the edge. When it's real warm and I've been riding it for an half an hour or more it's all but impossible to keep it from pinging under acceleration. Hoping that this can reel me back in.

[upside22]

You might still try a can of octane boost. If it works it would make it less urgent to get the carb rejetted.

[danimal2]

Got an email back from Mike with CobraUSA. Great, awesome, super tech support guy. Again, the pipes are already on the bike so the big money has been spent by someone else. The most this company will get from me is $75.00 for a jet kit. That being said, I really appreciate all his help with the information.

According to the instructions it's a pretty significant jet change from stock. I think the book said stock was a 142 main. For Corbra pipes w/baffles and stock air cleaner starts out at a 134 up to 3000' elevation. Also the different needle and clip position.

Is this enough to make the difference? I don't know but I think we're going to find out.

The instructions also include a step for drilling out the plug that covers fuel mixture adjuster and adding a plug to an easily accessible hose on the left side intake. I should be able to tell just by looking at it if the jetting kit has been installed.

_______________________________________________


Update............I lose. The jet kit has been put in already. The hose plug that they refer to in the instructions has been installed which means somebody has already been in there. Whether the right jets were installed is still in question however I know the bike came from Texas and probably 2000'-3000' above sea level or there abouts. I'm at 2000' above sea level so pretty sure the right jets would've been installed for both Texas and here in Phoenix. At worse it would only be one size away.

Man I thought I had it.

Sure glad I asked for those instructions before just ordering the jet kit on a whim.

Back to the proverbial drawing board. ???

[billyboy]

Your scenario is 5th gear at 50mph going up a hill and you're getting pinging when you roll on the throttle.

Yep, I'd be surprised if you didn't get pinging - that's really lugging the engine! You shouldn't be in 5th gear at that speed on level ground unless you dropped into 5th a bit early and you're accelerating. For me, the engine doesn't feel like it would want to go into 5th gear until I'm around 60mph. If I start up a hill at 50 in 5th, I'd definitely be dropping it into 4th or 3rd, depending on the slope.

UPDATE: Sorry, I see in subsequent posts that you clarified this scenario - you're getting pinging no matter when you roll on the throttle in any gear at any speed.

[cactusjack]

Your scenario is 5th gear at 50mph going up a hill and you're getting pinging when you roll on the throttle.

Yep, I'd be surprised if you didn't get pinging - that's really lugging the engine! You shouldn't be in 5th gear at that speed on level ground unless you dropped into 5th a bit early and you're accelerating. For me, the engine doesn't feel like it would want to go into 5th gear until I'm around 60mph. If I start up a hill at 50 in 5th, I'd definitely be dropping it into 4th or 3rd, depending on the slope.

I agree with this completely. You shouldn't be in 5th gear at 50MPH.

[MAS Tequila]

Have you checked the carb boot for proper installation and or cracks?

Many have found a bad or improperly installed carb boot to produce similar symptoms due to leaning out the mixture.

MT

[billyboy]

Got an email back from Mike with CobraUSA. Great, awesome, super tech support guy. Again, the pipes are already on the bike so the big money has been spent by someone else. The most this company will get from me is $75.00 for a jet kit. That being said, I really appreciate all his help with the information.

According to the instructions it's a pretty significant jet change from stock. I think the book said stock was a 142 main. For Corbra pipes w/baffles and stock air cleaner starts out at a 134 up to 3000' elevation. Also the different needle and clip position.

Is this enough to make the difference? I don't know but I think we're going to find out.

The instructions also include a step for drilling out the plug that covers fuel mixture adjuster and adding a plug to an easily accessible hose on the front of the intake. I should be able to tell just by looking at it if the jetting kit has been installed.

_______________________________________________


Update............I lose. The jet kit has been put in already. The hose plug that they refer to in the instructions has been installed which means somebody has already been in there. Whether the right jets were installed is still in question however I know the bike came from Texas and probably 2000'-3000' above sea level or there abouts. I'm at 2000' above sea level so pretty sure the right jets would've been installed for both Texas and here in Phoenix. At worse it would only be one size away.

Man I thought I had it.

Sure glad I asked for those instructions before just ordering the jet kit on a whim.

Back to the proverbial drawing board. ???

If you haven't already, consider starting a new thread in the 1500/1600 Garage section of this forum. When I had my '99 Suzuki Intruder 1500, there was a guy on that forum who was the carb expert - you could send you carb to him and he'd rejet using the tested settings and your home elevation for Stage I and III.

The issue with those bikes was that ALL aftermarket rejet kits would destroy the carbs - Dyno, Cobra, VH, etc. After a few thousand miles, the hard steel needles would destroy the relatively soft metal carbs. That Suzuki carb service was handed over to gmanindustries.com, who sells a custom fuel controller for many bike models.

I'm not sure if this forum has a resident carb expert since I no longer have a carbed bike and I'm not looking at those posts, but moving this to the Garage area might have better results - just sayin'.

[blowndodge]

It's beginning to sound more and more like an intake air leak somewhere.

[ponch]

It's beginning to sound more and more like an intake air leak somewhere.

Those rubber boots tend to crack over time.

[ringadingh]

You could check for leaks around the carb boot with a can of starting fluid. If there is a leak, the motor will speed up when it sucks in the ether.

[danimal2]

I'll give that a look over tomorrow. Thanks again.

I keep hearing the shift points on here and about not going to 5th gear until after 60 mph etc.

This is right out of the owner's manaual verbatum.

Shift points

1-2 12 mph
2-3 19 mph
3-4 25 mph
4-5 31 mph

Amazing. If I ran the bike by the book when it's warmed up the thing would probably ping itself to death.

Wonder why they would have you shift it at such a low rpm/speed if they knew it was going to ping so bad?

[Top Cat]

I run my 07 in 5th gear at 45 mph and up. I like the easy way it cruises at that rpm. If I want to speed up quickly I down shift.
I just try to stay at or above 2500 rpm's while riding.

[cactusjack]

I'll give that a look over tomorrow. Thanks again.

I keep hearing the shift points on here and about not going to 5th gear until after 60 mph etc.

This is right out of the owner's manaual verbatum.

Shift points

1-2 12 mph
2-3 19 mph
3-4 25 mph
4-5 31 mph

Amazing. If I ran the bike by the book when it's warmed up the thing would probably ping itself to death.

Wonder why they would have you shift it at such a low rpm/speed if they knew it was going to ping so bad?

That's like the break-in shift points on a brand new bike. At 31 MPH in 5th, the bike would probably stall.

[danimal2]

Break in or no, it still seems like it would ping irregardless. Pinging is not a good way to break in a motor I'm thinking.

Actually re-reading the book, it doesn't state that it's for breakin only. Doesn't even imply that.


I run my 07 in 5th gear at 45 mph and up. I like the easy way it cruises at that rpm. If I want to speed up quickly I down shift.
I just try to stay at or above 2500 rpm's while riding.

This is doable, if the bike would allow it.

[ringadingh]

When they build and sell the bike they assume it wont ping, Im sure a lot of the pinging has to due with the different fuel today from the days when gas had octane and lead in it. Motors ran a little dirtier but they didn't ping as bad.

[hammer]

Hot temp+lean bike=ping. That's more true if you are grabbing throttle at 50 in 5th. Even worse doing that uphill. I am rarely in 5th except on the freeway and I get an avg. 46 MPG on trips. Having said that I will shortly be going with a Chuckster kit and a TFI.

I do not use Cobra, Dynojet or other aftermarket kits. On the VOL and other bikes I used Mikuni for reasons given already here although I don't know what carbs the 1500 Nomads use.

[bobhamlin]

Chiming in very late.

In reference to possibly running lean (from the days of my Vulcan Classics): Have you had any backfire on sudden deceleration when you were pinging? That would be an indication of lean running.

A Classic-guru always wanted to read the plugs. As soon as a problem started, pull over, turn off the engine immediately, take out the plugs and read them carefully. He convinced me that they contain more information than the entrails of a goat.

[danimal2]

Hot temp+lean bike=ping. That's more true if you are grabbing throttle at 50 in 5th. Even worse doing that uphill. I am rarely in 5th except on the freeway and I get an avg. 46 MPG on trips. Having said that I will shortly be going with a Chuckster kit and a TFI.

I do not use Cobra, Dynojet or other aftermarket kits. On the VOL and other bikes I used Mikuni for reasons given already here although I don't know what carbs the 1500 Nomads use.

Keihin 40 mm.


Chiming in very late.

In reference to possibly running lean (from the days of my Vulcan Classics): Have you had any backfire on sudden deceleration when you were pinging? That would be an indication of lean running.

A Classic-guru always wanted to read the plugs. As soon as a problem started, pull over, turn off the engine immediately, take out the plugs and read them carefully. He convinced me that they contain more information than the entrails of a goat.

That's funny about the goat guts. No back firing at all. Just a nice gentle burbling when you let off the gas. Read the plugs and checked gap and they're perfect. One of the first things I did.

Rode it again yesterday and burned off the remainder of the gas with seafoam in it. Just straight premium now. Still doing the pinging thing after about half an hour in the saddle. Again...........runs absolutely perfect when cool/cold. Thinking about wiring a switch to the radiator fan so I can turn it on at will, just to see if cooling it down some would help. It would be easy to do and temporary.

Allowed a little coolant to come out the drain screw below carb and it's full of rust. Definitely going to service the cooling system completely.

I can understand the temperature thing to some degree, but the difference between hot and cold is astronomical. It's like two completely different bikes. It's not even hot here yet. It seems like it only gets worse the hotter it gets. This thing might not even be rideable once it hits 90 degrees outside.

Whatever is going on, I think it's safe to say that this bike (for whatever reason) pings worse than normal. I almost wish that another member could ride it just to see if I'm crazy or not.

[ponch]

Hot temp+lean bike=ping. That's more true if you are grabbing throttle at 50 in 5th. Even worse doing that uphill. I am rarely in 5th except on the freeway and I get an avg. 46 MPG on trips. Having said that I will shortly be going with a Chuckster kit and a TFI.

I do not use Cobra, Dynojet or other aftermarket kits. On the VOL and other bikes I used Mikuni for reasons given already here although I don't know what carbs the 1500 Nomads use.

Keihin 40 mm.


Chiming in very late.

In reference to possibly running lean (from the days of my Vulcan Classics): Have you had any backfire on sudden deceleration when you were pinging? That would be an indication of lean running.

A Classic-guru always wanted to read the plugs. As soon as a problem started, pull over, turn off the engine immediately, take out the plugs and read them carefully. He convinced me that they contain more information than the entrails of a goat.

That's funny about the goat guts. No back firing at all. Just a nice gentle burbling when you let off the gas. Read the plugs and checked gap and they're perfect. One of the first things I did.

Road it again yesterday and burned off the remainder of the gas with seafoam in it. Just straight premium now. Still doing the pinging thing after about half an hour in the saddle. Again...........runs absolutely perfect when cool/cold. Thinking about wiring a switch to the radiator fan so I can turn it on at will, just to see if cooling it down some would help. It would be easy to do and temporary.

Allowed a little coolant to come out the drain screw below carb and it's full of rust. Definitely going to service the cooling system completely.

I can understand the temperature thing to some degree, but the difference between hot and cold is astronomical. It's like two completely different bikes. It's not even hot here yet. It seems like it only gets worse the hotter it gets. This thing might not even be rideable once it hits 90 degrees outside.

Whatever is going on, I think it's safe to say that this bike (for whatever reason) pings worse than normal. I almost wish that another member could ride it just to see if I'm crazy or not.


A clogged radiator would make it overheat. Traditional antifreeze should be changed every 2 years/24,000 miles. There is a 5year/50,000 mile green prestone now and that is what I used in the bikes. If it's never been changed, I am not surprised at the rust. You really don't want to have to replace the water pump...Although Cadman had a unique fix that is easier, it's not fun.

[danimal2]

I'm almost afraid to say it.......................but I think I fixed it. Drained the cooling system and out came some kind of brown chemical soup. What I thought was rust actually looked more like an oily substance probably with some rust in there too. I was worried at first that it might spell head gasket, but I remembered the oil didn't have any antifreeze in it when I change it last week. Not sure where this stuff came from but it certainly wasn't anti-freeze (well not entirely any way). You couldn't even see through it, it was so dark and thick.

Drained cooling system completely. Filled the cooling system with Prestone flush and water following the instructions. Ran for 20 minutes. Drained and checked the fluid. It was still really really brown and had traces of whatever the oily substance was. Much better though. filled it with straight water per the instructions, ran it 20 more minutes and emptied it again. Almost perfectly clear. Just a trace of brown. Could've almost flushed it once more, but it was barely percepable.

Filled with a 50/50 mixture of distilled water and the new Prestone 50,000 mile stuff. Burped it and made sure it was full to the top. Topped off the overflow reservoir to the proper line.

Went and ran it. Air temps here were in the upper 70's. THE FAN WORKS NOW! First time I ever heard the fan come on. In fact it came on numerous times while stopped in traffic. Don't know if it was the chemical sludge affecting it or what, but it works now. It was at least this hot when I took my 166 mile jaunt and the fan never came on once all day even when stopped in traffic.

Ran it around for quite a long time and couldn't even make it ping. I'll admit, I was trying to.

I won't know for sure that it's fixed until I can put about 50 miles on it, but I'm pretty sure it's gonna work.

Thanks to everyone for the help and suggestions.

Almost ready to seriously love my bike!

I think I'll pull a compression test or do a leak down on it tomorrow just for peace of mind.

[ringadingh]

Thats great, sounds like you may have found the problem.
I would also change the oil now as well, If you have heated up the motor a few times, the oil would have broken down somewhat. If it has been changed recently Id still change it again, even if its just the oil and leave the filter this time.

I added gauges last season and am surprised by how much these motors fluctuate. On a hot day in the summer Ive seen mine near 220 while waiting for a traffic light to change.

[VulcanE]

Although I don't know anything about a carbed bike, I've been following this thread, and pulling for you to find a solution to your problem. Glad to here you may have solved it. I know that some anti-freeze manufactures say their coolant will last for so many years and so many miles, but I change mine religiously every two years. All the lubricants and additives start getting tired after a while, and that is the life of the water pump, impeller, and seals. I hope this solves your problem, and enjoy that "Greeny Maeney!

[danimal2]

Thanks so much. I appreciate that. I agree about the (extended) mileage ratings of things too. Oil, oil filters, air filters, anti-freeze. Especially something so critical as coolant in Arizona. Just not something to mess with. It's realatively cheap and extremely easy to change so no excuses for me.

When posting on the board I know it gets old to hear a guy keep going on and on and some probably wish I would've just gone away. It's o.k. I get it.

I find It often helps to bounce ideas off people. Even if the first poster doesn't hit the problem/fix on the head, or even a dozen down the line. Or sometimes the fix never pops up. It still helps if for no other reason than to reaffirm what you've already tried, or possibly something you missed. If you're tenacious and stick with it, eventually all that help pays off.

And of course I always hope that if someone else experiences a similar problem the thread can be of benefit to them.

One thing's for sure. If someone does a search for the word "Ping" it's pretty much assured that they'll find this thread. The word was certainly used enough times.

Dan

[ponch]

Thanks so much. I appreciate that. I agree about the (extended) mileage ratings of things too. Oil, oil filters, air filters, anti-freeze. Especially something so critical as coolant in Arizona. Just not something to mess with. It's realatively cheap and extremely easy to change so no excuses for me.

When posting on the board I know it gets old to hear a guy keep going on and on and some probably wish I would've just gone away. It's o.k. I get it.

I find It often helps to bounce ideas off people. Even if the first poster doesn't hit the problem/fix on the head, or even a dozen down the line. Or sometimes the fix never pops up. It still helps if for no other reason than to reaffirm what you've already tried, or possibly something you missed. If you're tenacious and stick with it, eventually all that help pays off.

And of course I always hope that if someone else experiences a similar problem the thread can be of benefit to them.

One thing's for sure. If someone does a search for the word "Ping" it's pretty much assured that they'll find this thread. The word was certainly used enough times.

Dan

How were the condition of all the hoses?

[cactusjack]

An automotive cooling system has many times the coolant capacity and radiator surface than these tiny cooling systems in our bikes. I'd be tempted to extend the coolant in my car or truck to 50k, 100k, whatever the coolant manufacturer suggests. I would not, however attempt that with a motorcycle. Coolant is relatively inexpensive and easy to change at Kawasaki's suggested intervals. Why risk damaging very expensive components and difficult repairs to save a few bucks?

Which reminds me...I need to change my coolant.

[ponch]

An automotive cooling system has many times the coolant capacity and radiator surface than these tiny cooling systems in our bikes. I'd be tempted to extend the coolant in my car or truck to 50k, 100k, whatever the coolant manufacturer suggests. I would not, however attempt that with a motorcycle. Coolant is relatively inexpensive and easy to change at Kawasaki's suggested intervals. Why risk damaging very expensive components and difficult repairs to save a few bucks?
Which reminds me...I need to change my coolant.

My VW has lifetime antifreeze. It's called G12 Pentosin. It's sort of pink. It still needs to be changed though, as when the timing belt is changed (105K miles), the water pump is as well, or should be, so the antifreeze gets changed at that point. I can tell you that the inside of the block was spotless after 6 years. I guess it's all what gets put in. the 2 year green stuff is the cheapest.

I used the 5 year 50K mile green prestone in my Kawasakis.

[danimal2]

How were the condition of all the hoses?

Pretty darned good considering they're 12 years old. The bike has been garage kept since it's purchase. The first owner even kept it in an air conditioned garage (must be nice). I gave the hoses all a squeeze and didn't see any signs of cracking or dry rot.

[zoom45]

Maybe mine is unusual. I have a 2000 1500 carbed model with about 84,000 miles on it but and I have never experienced what you guys call spark knock. I cruise at 50mph in 5th. I do a lot of riding on the Natchez Trace (50 mph speed limit). I can even be double up pulling a trailer at 50mph in 5th with no problems. I can run regular or premium and can't tell any difference. It's a noisy motor anyway but I just haven't noticed anything unusual. My fan will come on but it's after it sits idling for a long time. I have stock pipes debaffled.
Zoom45

[Top Cat]

54,000 miles and never change any fluids except oil.

[ringadingh]

54,000 miles and never change any fluids except oil.


You probably should Tim, the anti freeze can get corrosive over long periods, and thats not the best in an aluminium engine.
And the brake and clutch fluid absorb moisture, again not the best thing for your brake system.
A bit of brake fluid and some fresh Prestone are really cheap insurance considering the cost of a repair.

[blowndodge]

54,000 miles and never change any fluids except oil.


About the same as your shower habits huh???? http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif http://s2.images.proboards.com/shocked.gif

[ponch]

54,000 miles and never change any fluids except oil.


You should. Replacing the water pump isn't fun.

[minst7877]

My 99 doesn't like 87 octane fuel. Very poor mileage with it and very poor low end. It will spark knock at low RPM with the 87 and only gets around 35mpg. I started running mid grade 89 and the bike came to life. Good low end and really have to abuse it to get it to knock now. It also raised the mpg to between 40 and 42 depending on how much city riding I do. Only time I hear the fan is when setting at a light on a 90 degree plus day. I believe the carb is still stock and the intake and exhaust is for sure. Have been thinking of debaffling the pipes but don't want to screw up a good thing.

DC

[ponch]

My 99 doesn't like 87 octane fuel. Very poor mileage with it and very poor low end. It will spark knock at low RPM with the 87 and only gets around 35mpg. I started running mid grade 89 and the bike came to life. Good low end and really have to abuse it to get it to knock now. It also raised the mpg to between 40 and 42 depending on how much city riding I do. Only time I hear the fan is when setting at a light on a 90 degree plus day. I believe the carb is still stock and the intake and exhaust is for sure. Have been thinking of debaffling the pipes but don't want to screw up a good thing.

DC

Has it been JOGged?

[minst7877]

Has it been JOGged?

I don't know for sure yet. I plan on pulling the clutch cover yet this winter to find out.

DC

[schoeney]

Congrats in nailing down the problem!

Side note....mine has never pinged. All stock except debaffle...run 92 octane at all times.

[danimal2]

Congrats in nailing down the problem!

Side note....mine has never pinged. All stock except debaffle...run 92 octane at all times.

Thank you. Been gone on a trip for a few days (sans bike), but I'm back, I'm off tomorrow, and taking a ride.

I just had a hard time believing that such a popular bike would behave like I was hearing and that I didn't "know how to ride it". I don't think everyone realized how bad it was pinging.

I'm gonna take the same ride tomorrow that I did when I realized it had a problem. If it makes it without issue, should be able to close the books on it and move on to something else. http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

I'll continue to run premium fuel. It costs what an extra 50 cents per fillup? I think I can afford it.

[bobhamlin]

Went and ran it. Air temps here were in the upper 70's. THE FAN WORKS NOW! First time I ever heard the fan come on. In fact it came on numerous times while stopped in traffic. Don't know if it was the chemical sludge affecting it or what, but it works now. It was at least this hot when I took my 166 mile jaunt and the fan never came on once all day even when stopped in traffic.



I just want to understand the lesson learned: The sludge seems to have been the obvious problem. But what about the fan not having kicked on during that time?

The hottest sludge wasn't able to flow freely to the thermostat--which in turn never closed the circuit to the fan? Now that coolant is flowing freely around the thermostat, the fan circuit closes at the proper fluid temp?

[ponch]

Went and ran it. Air temps here were in the upper 70's. THE FAN WORKS NOW! First time I ever heard the fan come on. In fact it came on numerous times while stopped in traffic. Don't know if it was the chemical sludge affecting it or what, but it works now. It was at least this hot when I took my 166 mile jaunt and the fan never came on once all day even when stopped in traffic.





I just want to understand the lesson learned: The sludge seems to have been the obvious problem. But what about the fan not having kicked on during that time?

The hottest sludge wasn't able to flow freely to the thermostat--which in turn never closed the circuit to the fan? Now that coolant is flowing freely around the thermostat, the fan circuit closes at the proper fluid temp?


Not thermostat, but a switch that uses a coolant temperature sensor. The thermostat is a temperature controlled gate. I'd have to look at a schematic to see where it is located, but I would bet the sensor had sludge around it instead of coolant. I have to wonder about the condition of the radiator if the coolant looked like sludge.

[ponch]

The fan switch is in the radiator, in the lower tank. I bet the sludge sat in the lower tank covering the thermal switch. I can't imagine the crud after 12 years.

[danimal2]

Guess we'll never know for sure. I think you guys are right though. That's all I can imagine. Either the sludge was laying in the bottom and affecting the switch itself, or the properties of the coolant had changed in some way due to all the crud that was in it. It was amazing though. As soon as I did the second flush everything started working again. At that point it was just straight water per the instructions on the prestone flush bottle.

The only concern I have is the oily substance that was in the old coolant and where it might have come from. I'm going to run it for a bit and change the coolant once more just to be sure the stuff doesn't come back.


The fan switch is in the radiator, in the lower tank. I bet the sludge sat in the lower tank covering the thermal switch. I can't imagine the crud after 12 years.

12 years, but only 5,300 miles. Shows to go ya that stuff can go bad from just sitting and not being used.

[ringadingh]

The sludge acted as an insulator and wouldn't let the fan sensor to activate.
After riding now does the rad feel warm all over the core or just mainly around the tanks. You need to make sure that the fluid is flowing through the core to cool properly.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

A sitting engine is the worse thing that could happen. Nothing good ever comes from and idle engine. I fire my Nomad up ever two or three days whether I ride or not. Let it idle for ten minutes or so just to keep everything working. Of course living in north Alabama usually allows me the opportunity to ride some every week as it warms up enough to do a little riding.

[ponch]

I just hope your water pump is ok. That is a bear to fix, even with cadmann's expedited method. Just as bad are head gaskets.

[danimal2]

The sludge acted as an insulator and wouldn't let the fan sensor to activate.
After riding now does the rad feel warm all over the core or just mainly around the tanks. You need to make sure that the fluid is flowing through the core to cool properly.

Unsure. Unfortunately I've been on the road for the past four days. Gonna get out here shortly for an extended testing period. http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif


A sitting engine is the worse thing that could happen. Nothing good ever comes from and idle engine. I fire my Nomad up ever two or three days whether I ride or not. Let it idle for ten minutes or so just to keep everything working. Of course living in north Alabama usually allows me the opportunity to ride some every week as it warms up enough to do a little riding.

Agreed. Sitting unused is a bad thing and I'll do everything in my power to prevent that from happening again. ;)


I just hope your water pump is ok. That is a bear to fix, even with cadmann's expedited method.

You and me both.

UPDATE

O.k. I get it now. I get this board, I get why all of you guys like your bikes so much, I get why Kawasaki managed to sell so many of these.

Just got back from a 200 mile, 5 hour ride and the bike worked perfectly. I couldn't/wouldn't ask for anything more. It's exactly what I wanted when I went bike shopping.......... seriously. No pinging, nice n smooth, good power, good enough handling for my intended purpose, pretty comfortable. Just an excellent shakedown run.

Only stopped three times. Twice for gas and once for pie and coffee..........(I'm a huge pie guy).

In a word............ Awesome! I'm thrilled.

Sure am glad I didn't stop trying to fix it when I heard "they just do that".

[ndbigfish]

Glad it is a go now; gotta love those 1500s.

[danimal2]

Just thought I'd put the final capper on this deal. Getting ready to roll over 6000 miles and the bike is running awesome (problem was noticed and rectified at 5400 miles). The coolant was definitely the problem. Highly recommend a coolant flush and change. Very easy to do and it probably saved the motor in my case.

Again.........thanks to all for your responses and assistance.

[bobhamlin]

Very easy to do and it probably saved the motor in my case.

Again.........thanks to all for your responses and assistance.
...and that's why I contribute to this site. It has saved me much hours of trial-and-error and probably much money.

Well, maybe not much money--I've bought things I never would have considered!