Clutch slippage

[cocheese72]

Clutch is slipping now at 25k. I ordered the BARNETT CLUTCH SPRING SET H.D.KAW - 502-00-01025 today. Is there anything else that may be bad with the clutch?

[AlabamaNomadRider]

How does the brake fluid look? Have you changed out the fluid? The fluid could be contaminated or you might have air in the system.

[cactusjack]

At 25k. it's probably just the spring that needs replacing. Be sure to get yourself a gasket for the right side cover as well.

[cocheese72]

I ordered that as well today. The fluid looks clear through the glass. I picked the bike up at 20k, but it looks like he may have done the 15k service, but I don't know.

[macmac]

Looking thru the glass is no indication of what's in the slave. All that tells you is the level is ok or not. What comes from that slave will be black. In part the black is worn bits of rubber making the BF black, but there will be traces of water and other contaminates as well.

If there is any air, which isn't likely, what happens is in gear engine running the bike will start to pull ahead. OR you will find you can't shift at all.

This depends on how much air there is. There are limited ways any air can get into the system, From the factory with nothing else ever having taken place there is only pretty much one way air can get in and that is by a very worn slave piston seal.

Only once in my life have i seen a worn slave seal suck air and not also leak BF. For that to happen is very rare.

[cocheese72]

Ok I will bleed brakes and clutch this week before the parts come in.

[macmac]

The slave moves a lot in the bore. The brakes not so much. I like to be very very very carefull and move the pistons out quite far, but not enough to pop the pistons out.

I call it exersizing them. Brake pistons move very little over all, and so tend to build a crud ring in the bores. That is made of rubber particals and water caused corrosion.

If you pull the calipers you can work the pistons first, which in my theory causes the crud to be suspended in soulution for a short time, but if then they are flushed a bit you will get a larger part of the mung and goo.

Of course this sucks up more time, and the ft calipers must be worked one at a time.

A helper works good here, as well as in the bleeding.

When bleeding allow time for the BF to use some graviety, and don't pump the pedal or levers fast. The last thing any one needs do is forth air in the system.

A little trick is to use a short wrench like a mini hammer tapping on the lines, and at any connections, where a 'land' formed by a fitting would tend to trap any air bubbles.

At times with out modern pumps and assorted other devices these little system can be the devils own work to get bled.

Working too fast will turn around and bite you on the butt.

I don't use any of these modern aids, maybe it's a matter of pride.

Another tip for on bikes where paint is close to everything is a clear line on the pre cracked bleeders. Point it in a jar.

If you are daring, it's a good idea to clean the bleeder threads and anti seize them all.

If you do when cracking open any bleeders just open them the slighest bit, so the anti seize isn't washed out.

[cocheese72]

I am in the middle of the work. Any way to get around the gear holder tool when tightening the clutch down?

[redjay]

Hi,
I have never done the clutch so bear with me. I recall putting a soft coin (cent) between gears (mentioned on other forums) to prevent gears from turning when tightening bolts.
Not sure if this is the case with Nomads. Hopefully someone who has done the clutch will chime in soon.

[cocheese72]

I saw the penny trick else where too. I did it and it worked. Time for prayer and test ride. Hope everything worked.

[cocheese72]

It is all complete. Slipping is gone. Clutch pull is stronger. Bump starting works now. I think the notchy second gear even improved.

[macmac]

Are you toe shifting only? As a group we have found the heel shifter worksbest for getting 2nd gear. Many of us were not sed to using that heel shifter, but fond when we did with a warmed up engine getting 2nd with that heel shifter worked best.

[cocheese72]

I toe shift only, removed the heel part. Not really opposed to it, though I need to get used to it. I'm a short dude, and just like to move my foot around on the floorboard and the heel toe blocks me in.

[ringadingh]

I think you will find that once you get used to the heel shifter its actually easier to get a good clean shift. Now that Im used to it I don't ever want to own a bike without one.