fuel module

[deacon]

I'm sure this has been addressed before but I didn't get any results from "search". I'm saving my pennies for a fuel module this spring. I'm not mechanically inclined and am looking for the easiest plug and play type that works well. Any recommendations?

[cactusjack]

I'm sure this has been addressed before but I didn't get any results from "search". I'm saving my pennies for a fuel module this spring. I'm not mechanically inclined and am looking for the easiest plug and play type that works well. Any recommendations?

As far as I know, they all basically connect the same way. For the plug and play models, you have to unplug the fuel injector connectors and connect the fuel processor connectors in their place. It isn't difficult.

[MAS Tequila]

The splice in models are simple also. Thy come with everything needed to install them in about 15 minutes or less.

MT

[redjay]

Go to www.customdynamics.com (http://www.customdynamics.com) for the plug and play model of Dobeck (Techlusion) TFI.
I think they have the best price.

[mobandy78]

Here is another one that is a little cheaper. From the looks of it, it is the same as the Dobeck TFI, just has different branding on it. Another member here found it a few months ago.

http://www.westendmotorsports.com/kuryakyn-wild-things-fuel-injection-controllerbrclick-fitment-p-18537.html

[redjay]

For $20 more I would go with the plug and play. The one at Westendmotorsports includes scotchlocks for splicing so its not plug and play. The guy is looking for plug and play (not mechanically inclined).

[MAS Tequila]

For $20 more I would go with the plug and play. The one at Westendmotorsports includes scotchlocks for splicing so its not plug and play. The guy is looking for plug and play (not mechanically inclined).

That is a two edged sword.

What is easier, splicing with scotchlocks or removing the fuel tank?

MT

[cocheese72]

For $20 more I would go with the plug and play. The one at Westendmotorsports includes scotchlocks for splicing so its not plug and play. The guy is looking for plug and play (not mechanically inclined).
That is a two edged sword.
What is easier, splicing with scotchlocks or removing the fuel tank?
MT

It does not need to be removed, it can be raised and the work completed. Remove two bolts in the back, losen the front, raise and support with wood.

[Kawhead]

For $20 more I would go with the plug and play. The one at Westendmotorsports includes scotchlocks for splicing so its not plug and play. The guy is looking for plug and play (not mechanically inclined).

That is a two edged sword.

What is easier, splicing with scotchlocks or removing the fuel tank?

MTTouche' MAS Tequila! A double edge sword through the heart Your right but, I heard somewhere another, the hard road is the way to glory! ;)

If I had it to do again I'd feel comfortable hunting wires, spliceing, and heat swrinking, and not worry about burning up the ECU. Removing the tank is not a big job and if deacon has a free afternoon he'll be fine.

I highly suggest he use dielectric grease at your conections and make sure you wire tie and secure your wires.

[deacon]

Thank you gentleman http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif I can handle taking off the tank ::) I can splice as well http://s2.images.proboards.com/shocked.gif You guys crack me up! LOL http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif My biggest concern with splicing would be if I'm cutting the right wires. My thought was if I got the plug and play variety I might lessen my chances of screwing things up. I have started many projects with confidence only to find I over estimated my skills. Thank you all for your help http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

[MAS Tequila]

There is no issue getting the wrong wire unless you are color blind.

snip

3. Locate the ECU next to the battery and lift it straight up and out to locate the BLUE w/RED stripe
wire and the BLUE w/GREEN stripe wire on the harness going to the ECU. Attach a t-tap
connector to each of these wires about an inch from the connector on the ECU. See figure 1
4. Plug the Fi2000 module’s BLUE w/RED stripe and BLUE w/GREEN stripe wires to the
corresponding ECU wires with the t-tap connectors and replace the ECU to its original location.
Make sure to route the wires so they do not get pinched by the seat when installed. See figure 1.
Note: Make sure not to attach the t-tap connectors closer than 1” to the stock ECU connector.
5. Reinstall the battery cross brace, phillips head screw and fuse holder.
6. Locate the RED wire at the tail light harness plug (the wire harness goes through the grommet in
the rear fender). and attach a t-tap connector there. See figure 1.
7. Attach the Fi2000 module’s RED wire to the t-tap connector installed in step 6 and the BLACK
wire to the negative post of the battery. Make sure to route the wires so they do not get pinched
by the seat when installed as shown in figure 1
8. Remove the backing from the Velcro and attach the Cobra module on the rear fender between

Good luck whichever way you go. I wasn't trying to talk anyone into anything, just trying to show that neither install has much of a difficulty factor.

MT

[macmac]

I did the solder in TFI and telling the wire colors was tuff. 2 wires look almost the same they are pink and gray. That blue and gray is tuff but there is just one at the ecu. Other than that you don't do a thing with the tank.

Pulling the blasted battery out is the only real problem. I wouldn't dream of using scotch locks. In my experience they damage the wire and are the first things to break or crud up.

Any time I find these on any wiring problem they get cut out and the wires get soldered before I hunt further.

Just incase you do go with a solder on if these are even sold, there are 4 wires to solder.

The 2 off the ecu the way i do it get a pig tail with male spades. Then the 2 wires to the ecu from the TFI get 2 female spades. Plug these in.

Then the TFI hot wire goes to the tail light wire, and i use a crimp connector there. The last wire gets an eye and goes to the stud for the battery hold down.

So far as I know and i don't really know, all the plug n play have no power up wire, and pick power off to turn on from the injection pulse. Probably most anyone here that has a plug n play will screem if i am wrong. These guys love it when ever i am wrong.

[jesse]

Scotch locks should be against the law http://s2.images.proboards.com/angry.gif:(" title=">:(" border="0"/> they are a temporary fix at best. If they work at first they will eventually have connection problems. Then when you find the problem, you find some of the wire strands have been cut during instalation. Do like Mac says solder in the first place and be done, or plug and play.
When a new truck is delivered to the city where I work and it comes in with scotch locks, it goes back. Do it right or we find someone who will.