Stalling....

[clayton]

Ok...
My Nad is stalling....
It does not do it enuf to complain except today I guess it hit a nerve....
It does it more so after I pull the clutch in to for instance turn right if I am in a parking lot to look to the left....
Now and then it stalls if I "goose" it just before I let loose of the clutch to pull out of an intercection....
It is NOT me just stalling it, it flat stops running to the point to where I need to restart....
Personally I can live with an occasional stall however when it about makes me loose control I get a bit pissy....
1: Stalling is not a safe measure in traffic...
2: it sometimes can be embarrasing...especially around and in a Bike Nite...
Why is it stalling?
What can I do to help this not happen?
I have 14,500 miles on the Nad.
Plugs look good...
Air filter is clean...
I use on a constant basis...Sea Foam.
Help me out here...
Thanks

[Cajunrider]

Is you idle speed fast enough, have you cleaned the throttle bodies lately, are you running a fuel processor?

[cactusjack]

Yep, clean the throttle body first, then adjust the idle, if necessary.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

Mine has one sympton that your bike has. When the clutch lever is pulled back and I goose it as you say it has just quit. I don't have any other problems just ever now and then when I am sitting still and the clutch lever is pulled and I rev it. It isn't something that has me real concerned. And yes I have cleaned the throttle body, installed new plugs and run Sea Foam through it on a regular basis.

[jandreu]

IMO, idle is very lean with a stock bike, it's just not getting enough fuel. Mine did this untill I added a Cobra FI.

[ringadingh]

Seafoam in the gas is good, but not enough. You have to do a good thorough scrubbing with carb cleaner and a toothbrush on the butterflies and insides. Youll notice that your mileage improves and that youll have to turn your idle down.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

My Nomad only dies ever so often. I have now had it one year and five months and was bought new. It has probably done it less than ten times in that time. It does this when I rev it while stopped at a light or stop sign. With the clutch in and I rev it it will sometimes just die. Restarts immediatley.

Have used Sea Foam in about every fourth tank. Installed new plugs recent. I do have the Cobra FI2000R installed since August 2009. If anything the idle is higher than it needs to be. I gave the throttle body a good cleaning about two months back.

It has had this problem since the bike was purchased. It isn't a new thing. I don't think it is something I need to worry about. Just wondering if anyone has a clue why the bike would just die when you rev the engine like that.

[clayton]

To answer earlier questions...
Yes I clean the throttle body about every 4000 miles or so.
Idel was as high as I could get the knob to turn and have even played around with different settings.
No fuel processor...yet. (no job = no fuel processor :( )
I will have some down time tomorrow since it is "suppose" to rain.
I will clean it out again with some fuel injector cleaner or carb cleaner (which I think I still have some left)
So the long and the short of it seems to be....get a Fuel Processor? and this MIGHT stop?
Thanks Guys

[redjay]

Fuel processor. Mine used to do the same thing before TFI install. Almost had me fall off in traffic once turning at a light. TFI makes shifting better too, especially between 1st and 2nd.
Stock bike is too lean.

[macmac]

Yeap, to lean and opening the throttle just kills it, because that just made it leaner than it was. The is a lag time for the demand and you get a puff of all air, with so little fuel there is nothing to burn.

ALL internal combustion engine require a bit of extra fuel to get a stationary object to become a moving object.

The first demand for fuel, means the fuel mix should me set at 13:1, which in use becomes 14:1, and in acelleration tends to become 17:1 leaning out.

The 1 is always fuel the other higher numbers are air we don't have to carry thankfully.

Now I don't KNOW what the fuel mix is, but i am dammned sure it ain't no 14:1.

There is 2 laws at work here which go against one another. The law of physics which says the mix should be in theory always 14:1, and the laws of silly man and the EPA which says we should starve engines to death to make them clean.

The EPA law is wrong and is not cleaner. It is just engine stress, wasted heat, over heat, kills oil faster, burns up engines with PING, is dangerous, and wastes fuel.

The stall is just a too lean to run condition.

In some attempt to create a picture, this is like taking a blue tip strike anywhere match, and grinding it up to fine dust and then making a little trail of powder spread out over say 3 inches. Then expecting the whole trail to light the same instant, when friction is applied to what little is left of the match head.

I ain't gonna happen.

[trosco]

Clay, et al I think this is a fairly common problem on the 07 and 08 Nomads. I know of several others with 07s or 08s just here in FL that have the problem.

At idle, if the throttle is cracked just slightly the motor falls on it's face. Sometime it will give a tiny "pop" that sounds like it fired back through the carburetor then dies and sometime they just die! Mine has done it since new.

This same problem was so common on the early 900's that Kaw issued a recall and replaced the ECMs on a group of the 900s. I don't think they did so willingly though and I don't know what caused them to deal with the problem on the 900s. I tried to get Kaw to deal with it when my bike was on warranty but their response was always that it was "not a problem know to affect the 1600 FI Nomad" and that they would "monitor reported drive-ability issues for those particular symptoms."

I have found that I can decrease the frequency of the problem's occurrence significantly by just keeping my idle at or above 1100RPM and that is what I do. AT 950 It happens a couple times a week and at 1100 it might be only one or two times a month.

But, although the FI controller did many good things I did not find that having a FI controller on my bike had any impact positive or negative on this problem.

[redjay]

To Trosco, the problem affects the 05's too.

[macmac]

And 06.....

[billmac]

Mine use to cough and die. Or die, without a cough. Very frustrating. It is hard for the bike to run when it is adjusted for the EPA instead of what is safe for you and good for the engine. Good luck on getting a TFI. That solved my problem for good.

[dabull]

ditto 05....

[cactusjack]

Let's just say it's a common problem in the 1600 models. http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

[AlabamaNomadRider]

And let's just say that mine still does it on rare occassions and I do have the Cobra FI2000R installed. It isn't because it is idled too low as mine seems like it needs idling down.

[brote]

No doubt about it this is from an overly "Lean" condition. Gadget has a little article that will address this problem along with a little pinging. http://www.gadgetjq.com/ping_fix.htm
Let me add a couple things I did with my Camaro to help things out. One of the first things I did was add a little resistance to the "Air inlet temperature". Doing this allows the ECU to deliver more fuel to the mix. (Same as Gadget article) One other thing is to adjust the TPS for the correct voltage. I'm NOT SURE of the range on the Nomad but there is a lower limit (ie. 1.45 volts at idle) and a full open voltage level (ie. 4.50 volts). Prior to my addition of an aftermarket ECU these two things made a great bit of difference in pre ignition on the ol' 350.

[loki8500]

I have an 06' same issue! Solved it by turning up the idle a little bit. Not sure what rpm it's at but just a little higher did the trick! I told the dealer about the problem but they deny any problem with the fuel injection computer. Kawasaki is sticking their heads in the sand on this and other problems with their bikes. I hear new Kawasaki 1700 models suffer the same stalling issue too! And their drive belts are noisy! I Love my bike though, No other real problems. Good luck. http://s2.images.proboards.com/cool.gif

[rez]

I experience the same issue as many describe here.....and also only intermittently/occassionally. I can live with it....just concerned one day it will stall out at just the worng time. I have the Cobra FI2000, cleaned the throttle bodies and plates , played with idle speeds, new plugs, etc. etc. Nothing has really helped. Mine is an '05.

[jerrycritz]

Sometimes I get frustrated with the forum. Problems are discussed and suggestions are made, some simple and some very complicated. Here is one solution. My Nomad was stalling and popping and acting strangely. She would idle OK on the side-stand but upright she would sometimes run on one cylinder. Took off the seat and side-covers looking for what was probably a short. On the side-stand I tilted the battery while idling and the stall started. Moved every connection and couldn't get to do it again. Finally noticed a faint spark in front at the bottom of the battery. Main wiring pack from under the tank had rubbed on the battery hold down and only sometimes then the bike was up-right it would short. Probably shorting out one injector. I think...I'm sure I'll be corrected if wrong...by the way God help me how do I ever get all that stuff loose and change the battery? Anyway I went through 50 forum pages looking for some answers and all I found were problems and lots of suggestions....When you fighre out what is causing your problems, how about posting the solution so we can all benefit? Thanks ya'all.

[vincent]

I had a couple of similar symptoms. Fi2000r took care of it and alot of other things.

[mobandy78]

I had a stalling issue also... usually happened after coming to a stop and pulling the clutch in. Seemed like the engine would go from higher RPM's to low RPM's quickly. This only happened occasionally (most embarrassing at Bikes, Blues, & BBQ while cruising the main drag... happened twice).

I was able to correct the problem by adjusting the idle control a bit. Barely turned the RPM's up and I haven't had any issues since. Engine is stock w/ debaffled exhaust.

[dabull]

I saw a post on another forum where kawasaki is recalling 2009-2010 Voyagers for stalling with the clutch in, the fix is ECU repair.

So I went to this site: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/recalls...e&refurl=email

And filed this complaint (suggest we ALL do this): I ride a 2005 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1600. On the Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1600, years 2005-2008 the engine sometimes stalls if the rider is coasting with the clutch pulled in. This is the topic of a current recall with the 2009-2010 Kawasaki Voyager and was also a problem and later corrected in the Kawasaki Vulcan 900 several years ago. I belong to a Nomad forum and all owners of these years/makes and models of the Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1600 experience this problem. The engine stalling could cause a crash, injury, or death. I have on several occasions when coasting with the clutch in and/or accelerating into traffic been left with no power to control the motorcycle., The failure occurs randomly. It appears that the only way to counter act this problem is to raise the idle to a "too high" idle. With a passenger, and no power this problem becomes even more pronounced and dangerous as the bike is more top heavy and harder to control.

[carolinakid1]

DaBull, went to the complaint site and in filling out the form they want to know which VN1600 I ride...I cannot remember what the non-California number is on a 2007. For others, know which one you ride before beginning the process.

[loki8500]

I posted a complaint with NHTSA also! This is a real issue that Kawasaki must fix! We all need to file so this is taken care of properly! I Have a 2006, Model number is VN1600 G6F. I Googled the year and that's what comes up.

[BigRed]

I realize that this is an old thread but I experienced stalling twice today. Once when down shifting from second to first at a stop light and the other time on the highway when downshifting from fifth to fourth. Both times while the clutch was pulled in so I was able to restart the motor on the fly.

As recommended I will clean out the throttle body and bump up the idle a little bit and hopefully that will help.

I wish Kawasaki would step up to the plate and admit that this is a known problem on the 1600 Nomads. They did a recall for the 1700, who not the 1600?

[HwyRider]

The recall for the ECU on the 1700's was a little more dangerous. If the bike shut off you had to turn the key and switch off in order to restart. You couldn't just pop the clutch and get going again. The ECU problem was on deceleration.

[cactusjack]

I realize that this is an old thread but I experienced stalling twice today. Once when down shifting from second to first at a stop light and the other time on the highway when downshifting from fifth to fourth. Both times while the clutch was pulled in so I was able to restart the motor on the fly.

As recommended I will clean out the throttle body and bump up the idle a little bit and hopefully that will help.

I wish Kawasaki would step up to the plate and admit that this is a known problem on the 1600 Nomads. They did a recall for the 1700, who not the 1600?

Because it's not a faulty ECU that causes this on the 1600. It's usually a dirty throttle body resulting in low idle speed.

[BigRed]

The recall for the ECU on the 1700's was a little more dangerous. If the bike shut off you had to turn the key and switch off in order to restart. You couldn't just pop the clutch and get going again. The ECU problem was on deceleration.

Ah, I see.

[BigRed]

Because it's not a faulty ECU that causes this on the 1600. It's usually a dirty throttle resulting in low idle speed.

and I will be cleaning it :D

[pbab]

Get the TFI

[ringadingh]

Poor idle and stalling could also be because of a vacuum leak. Mine was stalling last week, and no matter how I adjusted the idle it would stall out. After cleaning the Throttle body, adding Seafoam, I checked the vacuum lines and found the problem right away. It was a hose that I added for the cruise control and it had cracked. I replaced it and the bike idles perfectly once again. I was suspecting it to be the TPS sensor, but instead it was a cheap easy fix.

[trosco]

Big Red: you can't "bump start" a FI bike. When RPM drops below certain level (725 RPM I think on our 1600's) or Fuel Pressure drops below a certain level (24 PSI again I think on our 1600's) the ecm cuts off ignition and aborts injector firing. The "starter circuit" (pushing the starter button) enables a special ecm routine for ignition and fuel flow below the required minimums above. It's nesc to pull the clutch in and push the starter button to restart your bike if it is a FI model in these stalling situations. But you can do that while rolling.

[redjay]

The bike needs a TFI

[macmac]

The recall for the ECU on the 1700's was a little more dangerous. If the bike shut off you had to turn the key and switch off in order to restart. You couldn't just pop the clutch and get going again. The ECU problem was on deceleration.

The 16's can't pop the clutch either because it is a slipper clutch. maybe with a Barnett after market clutch spring you can. So long as the bike wasn't dropped you can press the start button to crank the engine again with out turning off the key switch. In the event of a drop the switch MUST be turned off and the key used to turn the switch On again.

I have no idea what the 1700's recall was for. The 1700 is another whole bike really.

[Silent Sam]

A couple of times Recently, at about 55 mph just cruising along (@ aprox 47,000 miles on the bike) My 02 Nomad, has shut down..then restarted so quickly, I didnt have time to "get off the throttle"

One of the members suggested..an examination of the "kill-switch" might be in order ! ?

Addendum nov. 15th 2013

been attempting to track-down the source of the instantainious-intermittent kill & restart..while curising along at steady speed (tho sometimes on departure from a stop..etc)
I dismantled the kill switch and start button assy...sprayed it out with electrical cleaner..all seems good in there..closed it up and rode...Still got the intermittent shut down/re-ignite, twice in about an easy riding, 35 miles...
..I also did the spray and clean the kick stand switch, using spray,lite wt., lube oil...boy the kick stand is smooth and easy now..but no joy yet on the snuff & re-ignite, situation... working on it !

[tex105]

My 07 was doing that. Check battery connection. Worked for me.