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ttudesperado
08-01-2010, 08:09 PM
any of yall ever used the evans NPG coolant in your nomad's? it was a boiling point of 375-400 degree, seems like its mostly used in racing engines, auto and moto

cactusjack
08-01-2010, 11:50 PM
Since your Nomad is designed to run at ~200°, I don't see what good it would do you.

AlabamaNomadRider
08-02-2010, 09:30 AM
Never heard of it. Make sure it meets the specs for the Nomad.

blowndodge
08-02-2010, 09:54 AM
He's probably wondering if it's cooling capacity is better, keeps Nomad cooler, than regular coolant. I tend to question all those "wetter water" type of liquids. WalMart actually carries a very touted popular brand of coolant additive. I might try it next change.

AlabamaNomadRider
08-02-2010, 09:58 AM
What is the additive you are talking about Brad?

Doesn't a higher boiling point just mean that it wouldn't boil until it got above say 400 degrees? Doesn't mean the engine would run any cooler with it. You just wouldn't have a boil over. Just a thought.

blowndodge
08-02-2010, 11:14 AM
Some of these products, "Engine Ice" "Wetter Water" claim to be able to remove more heat through better transfer of engine generated heat throught the radiator. The claims are that more water molecules come in contact with the cooling system like the radiator and that removes heat more efficiently.

wiz
08-02-2010, 11:59 AM
I just changed my coolant from "whatever was in there" to Prestone 50/50 premix universal. The motor seems hotter, but maybe that is just our current 90° - 100° outdoor temps.

blowndodge
08-02-2010, 12:57 PM
did you purge the system? There is a bleader bolt near the rear brake peddle that needs to be cracked open just a CH to bleed the air out of the system or it will run really hot...

macmac
08-02-2010, 01:11 PM
did you purge the system? There is a bleader bolt near the rear brake peddle that needs to be cracked open just a CH to bleed the air out of the system or it will run really hot...

Huh? I just had to go look for that bleeder and can't find one. I looked at the bottom rad hose to the pump hard and still can't find one, and wonder why it would be there at all, so low on the system. I was thinking cavitation maybe, but I can't find any bleeder there.

If I recall the 1500's had a bleeder on the far side of the T Stat, buty the 1600's don't seem to have a bleeder anywhere.

blowndodge
08-02-2010, 02:40 PM
Its the bottom bolt on the pump housing. I call it that "bleeder" bolt although most call the the block drain. If one opens it minutely you can hear and see bubbling action until just liquid drains out with no bubbling or air noise. Only take about 10 seconds for the bubbles and/or air to purge. Yes mac it's low in the system but air will find the easiest way out no matter where the opening is on a pressurized system..

macmac
08-02-2010, 03:11 PM
Ah, ok I don't use it that way exactly. I prefer lesser mess. So I pull the lower rad hose with a open filler cap which drains some pronto fast. Then pull that bolt to the little left, which I can deal with in paper towels for draining.

On a re-fill I squeeze the lower hose a lot to move air up and out the open filler. Then I squeeze other hoses anywhere I can. Pretty much if you can squeeze the top rad hose and see the filler neck move coolant out the rez hose the system is full.

On a 1500 you need to crack that top bleeder because air is trapped high on the other side of the T Stat. Saab 99 had that set up, but those cars are all long gone now.

Another odd thing I do is to pull the rez and hold it high, till coolant shows at the neck before capping, in some attempt to pre fill the rubber tubbing, and hope for a solid liquid stream free of air.

BD if you do this lower drain bolt and get air, then these systems have to be cavitating, which is a issue I wasn't aware of. That could be bad. Sooner or later standing cold, that air would have to escape, but for how long I wonder?

blowndodge
08-02-2010, 03:37 PM
I too squeeze the hoses mac. I only do this on a fresh coolant change and refill.

I Do all that you mentioned then start the bike and barely crack that bottom bolt for like i said 10 seconds tops just to make sure the system is under pressure and no air pockets. If there was a small pocket of air it would find that "barely" cracked bolts location in a hurry

ringadingh
08-02-2010, 04:56 PM
I just installed gauges on the bike a couple weeks ago and most of the time my gauge reads 150, if stopped in heavy traffic it will climb to 200 or even 210. Once you are underway it quickly drops to 150 again. I wouldn't spend the money on that coolant since our bikes don't run near the temps to benefit from it.

ttudesperado
08-02-2010, 09:10 PM
I think most of yall have the 1600's right? those 1700 feel hot to me, maybe its because i had a r80, a vstorm650 and a versys650 before, but the heat fix i posted about also helped tremendously, true test will be in the fall, if it still feels hot then its the bike, if not, it was just the weather, i ordered a jug of the evans stuff, may or may not put it it, i had to order a manual from the dealership, gonna have to drain the bike by unplugging the radiator hose, then reattach and take the tank off to fill with distilled water then put the tank back on, then run it for 10 to 15, then drain, take the tank off, put new coolant in, then put the tank back on, doesn't seem fun in my garage in the texas heat

AlabamaNomadRider
08-02-2010, 09:18 PM
Is is okay to use Prestone? I remember reading in the owners manual that the Nomad is only supposed to use certain coolants. Some have things in them that aren't good for our engines. I use the Honda coolant that I purchase from dealer. I would use Kawasaki but the dealer that I use only carry one brand and that is Honda. I know it is safe to use it. It is designed for motorcycle engines.

ringadingh
08-03-2010, 09:27 PM
Ive used Prestone in my bike and so far after using it for four seasons theres no proplems, just make sure its compatable for all metals.

Jllm02199
05-21-2015, 03:25 PM
On the 1500 02 nomad the bleeder is on the side of the thermostat housing.