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rickb6959
07-27-2010, 07:03 PM
I have a 2000, 1500 Nomad and I am changing my engine and gear oil.
The owners manual say's to add 2.9 qt of engine oil if I change the filter is this right? Also thegear case oil say's to level the bike and fill to toe bottom of the threads does that sound right?

Thanks

recumbentbob
07-27-2010, 07:12 PM
I can't help with the engine oil my Nomad is an 08.

But for the final drive gear lube put a piece of 2x4 under the side stand and fill the final drive to the bottom of the fill hole. This will leave room for heat expansion of the lube.

rickb6959
07-27-2010, 07:21 PM
Thanks I have mine on a lift and I guess I need to leave it a little low.

rickb6959
07-27-2010, 08:22 PM
Never mind the engine oil. I found it on Gadgets site. Man is the Manuel wrong I added 2.9 qts and it was at the bottom of the site glass.

ringadingh
07-27-2010, 08:35 PM
I add 3.3 litres of engine oil with a filter change, a US quart and a litre are very close to being the same.

schoeney
07-27-2010, 11:07 PM
I can't help with the engine oil my Nomad is an 08.

But for the final drive gear lube put a piece of 2x4 under the side stand and fill the final drive to the bottom of the fill hole. This will leave room for heat expansion of the lube.

Bob ,

Are you sure about this? I thought Mac and others said to fill it while it is on the side stand so we don't overfill it?


Rick,

According to my Clymer manual it says 3.3qt w/filter and 2.9 qt. without. Sounds like what Ring posted above.

dougster
07-27-2010, 11:55 PM
Mac has said to put the sidestand on a 2x4 to fill the gear oil. Some say to fill the gear oil with it on the sidestand (without a 2x4). But, nearly everyone says the book is wrong about leveling it when you fill it.

Cajunrider
07-28-2010, 01:42 AM
I don't know what's right or wrong as to what's the best way to fill the final drive. I've always filled it with the sidestand on a flat 2x4. After several changes and filling it this way, my seal went out and I started leaking gear oil at the driveshaft rubber boot. The dealership replaced the seal, coupling, and o-ring and filled it with the bike level as the manual dictates. I left that gear oil in the case for 7,000 miles and it never leaked a drop. I then changed it after the 7,000 miles and filled it with the sidestand on a 2x4 twice since then and haven't leaked any oil. Just the other day I ran my finger between the boot and shaft tube and found a smidgen of gear oil at the bottom. I have 3 1/2 years of warranty remaining so if it starts dripping again they will fix it covered by warranty and fill it with the bike level again. The dealer used dino gear oil and I use Royal Purple synthetic. Is that maybe the reason it begins to leak? Who knows?

macmac
07-28-2010, 08:33 AM
I don't measure either one ever. 2 days ago I changed both oils and not on any lift either.

I place a 2x4 flat side down under the side stand. I drain the finals in one pan and the engine strainer screen in another and I don't even remove the strainer bolt all the way. It has 4 slots and I can controll the flow and not get much if any oil on a finger.

I just dump in 3 qts after the new filter is on, and start the engine for a moment a bit over red light goes out. Then I kneel and grab a hand full of brake and tip the bike up off it's side stand with my right hand.

With my left hand I add oil to 1/2way up in the window. When the oil is hot it will be at the top mark in the window.

If you filled that final drive straight up to over flowing, I suggest you pull that saddle bag, and with a 2x4 flat under the side stand , pull the filler plug and let what runs out, RUN OUT!
Other wise you can wait and let the gear oil run out at the top of the drive shaft tube. You won't like that much.

The book is wrong. The book is always wrong. No book is always right. I have never yet found any motors manyual with out errors and big ones.

The 1600 book is loaded with errors. One is 43 inch pounds torque on the steering hear preload gooseneck bearings. ::)

ALl Nomad books are wrong to tell us to use the engine oil drain bolt, when the screen drain bolt is lower and so better.

I do remove that and the screen once a year, just not each 3,000 miles. The first time I pulled it it was partly full of gasket junks. Since then it has always been relitively clean.

Once working on boat engines almost as old as me, one engine running counter clockwise, and the other clockwize the book gave the same firing order. What a bunch of crock that was.

Not only was the book wrong, but my Boss was too http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif Before we were done having a talk, i was throwing my work boots at him. He was just BLIND.