TFI Question

[henryk]

Several weeks ago I installed the TFI unit on my 2007 Nomad.
I read that after installing one the engine runs cooler and the pinging stops. I don't know if I'm imaganing things but it seems that mine is running hotter and it still pings. I've tried several different settings but can't seem to find the "sweet spot".
If I set all 4 dials to 1 will that mean that the unit is off? Will it be ok to ride the bike this way for a while? I do plan on working on it later.

henryk

[cactusjack]

Just an observation, but isn't it hotter outside than it was several weeks ago in your area?

I would think turning all the pots to the #1 setting would be roughly equivalent to returning things to stock condition.

[Cajunrider]

Yes, setting all pots to 1 o'clock is essentially turning the unit off and returning everything to stock. The #1 pot has most if not all influence on the engine operating temperature. Do you note a change in rpm as you dial it up from 1 to say 4 o'clock? Is the green light illuminated at the #1 pot with the engine running?

[blowndodge]

Provided you have a properly installed and functioning TFI as Mitch pointed out the first green pot should be on when you start your bike. (before starting this you might want to turn the idle knob under the right side bowl, covering the injection system, up to a real fast idle first)Then starting at 1 O'clock (off) turn #1 pot clockwise until you get the highest idle and then as a rough starting point, turn the 2nd pot to twice the setting as #1 pot. You should only need to play with these 2 pots for now.

If your TFI in functioning right you should notice a big decrease in heat and ping.

[macmac]

1 set pot 4 to 9:00

2 set all other pots to 1:00

3 start the engine and look at the leds.

4 turn pot 1 clockwise slowly and listen for rpm to pick up.

does rpm pick up? Does the green light flicker?

Do you still see a red led on pot 4?

Forget pots 2 and 3 for now. Pot 3 should be off anyway.

So for now all you need is to set pot 4 to 9:00 right away, and dial up pot 1 for a green led. Then find best rpm.

If that doesn't happen you either wired something wrong, or the unit is defective, If the unit is defective, it would be the fist one I ever heard about.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

Some good advice Mac. What is the best way to tune in the Cobra FI2000R? It only has three pots as opposed to the four on the TFI.

[macmac]

Some good advice Mac. What is the best way to tune in the Cobra FI2000R? It only has three pots as opposed to the four on the TFI.

Same thing just no pot 4 to turn on. I am not sure about Cobra having or not any led lights to prove the unit is working. I assume there is something to prove it is.

I haven't seen a Cobra unit so never installed one.

But when that day comes I will. So the set up is the same anyway.

Set up pot 1 and not by book spec. Just turn all the pots off first, then start the engine.

Allow it to warm up well, maybe even place a couple fans at the rad.

Then turn up pot 1, and if the RPM's go sky high set the black stock knob down to with in reason.

Refine pot 1 seeking best RPM. Re -adjust the black knob if need be to gain proper idle. This will work with what ever intake set up you have, and with what ever exahust you have too. A custom matched set up that will seek itself out, depending on what you have as hard breathing parts. You are matching fuel to air ratio this way.

Then go play. Find a place you won't get busted doing repeated 1/4 miles runs as fast and hard as you dare, as if you are passing. Never exceed 3rd gear. Adjust pot 2 roughly at first. Starting in the low numbers on the pot and working past Best Power where the engine begins to chug or gag, make black sooty smoke. So you know you past best power.

Then refine that to best power and passing speed.

Then on decell if there is cackel, and popping out the tail pipes adjust pot 3 a very little adjustment at a time untill the cackel calms down.

Personally i didn't and won't do that, and find i can controll the cackel with a litter roll on. Dead closed throttle will cause the pipes to bark, spit and pop, which I can use as a warning to cagers.

That cackel is a lean mix condition, mixed with unwanted air in the system, which can be drawn in from the very end of the pipes. Some air will enter the pipes between exhaust beats. Then the lean mix will fire off and the end result is spitting and popping. Any other leaks of air passing a supposed sealed joint will do the same thing.

When the exhaust is set up the crush gaskets maynot seal correctly, due to a number of reasons. Might be the flanges are too thin, and a extra flat washer is required. Might be the studs are gritty, and the acorn won't seat down enough, might be the acorn got bottomed out on the studs.

Any joints not sealed correctly with any clamps are prone to sucking in air too. I didn't even use the clamps on my muffler to head pipe joints. I just anti seized them and didn't want more.

Another thing is the cams are economy cams for bikes, but are not under that heading so far as cars would be concerned. If these cams were in cars they would be semi street cams for racing. The Meanies has a different cam yet and is more closer in type to a real race cam. One reason the meanie is a bit faster.
I think sometimes we have become used to cars where economy is the whole thing, all peace and quiet, a little purring box that girls like.

Bikes should spit and pop and act up all mean and nasty any way.

Like i said I use that cackel. When I am heading to a red light I swerve like a drunk and let the racket loose when some fool is up my pipes. I use it to make sure they think I am dead drunk, the bike is in bad condition, and might explode, which gets them to BACK OFF!

In this so called modern world no one wants anything to do with a drunk on a brokem bike that looks and sounds like it's gonna BLOW! http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

[flavor]

LOL Mac. only you would think to act like a drunk to get somebody off your tail.

I'll have to remember that one.

[macmac]

Well I find some cagers are predators on the road. I just convince them i will taste really bad.

[henryk]

I'll like to thank everyone for chiming in.
I will follow the instructions you guys gave me here and see how it goes.
I'll let you know how it turns out.

Thanks again for all the help.
henryk

[macmac]

Reply with your findings.

[macmac]

Reply with your findings.

[macmac]

Reply with your findings.

[jandreu]

Mac, yes the Cobra has LED's for the three pots however, at least with mine, the pot one has no effect on idle speed. I have about 600 miles on the bike since installing the Cobra, Hypercharger, debaffled pipes and coasters. All of the bad issues with the stock bike have gone away, no back fire pops on decel, no surging or stumbling. Bike feels stronger and no ping. Allways run 92 octane gas. After playing with the settings I have settled on the recommended settings on 3,5,0.

I can turn the pot one full off or full on with the bike running and there is no change in idle speed. The LEDs are responding as the install sheet says they should.

[macmac]

Mac, yes the Cobra has LED's for the three pots however, at least with mine, the pot one has no effect on idle speed. I have about 600 miles on the bike since installing the Cobra, Hypercharger, debaffled pipes and coasters. All of the bad issues with the stock bike have gone away, no back fire pops on decel, no surging or stumbling. Bike feels stronger and no ping. Allways run 92 octane gas. After playing with the settings I have settled on the recommended settings on 3,5,0.

I can turn the pot one full off or full on with the bike running and there is no change in idle speed. The LEDs are responding as the install sheet says they should.

That's strange......

CJ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! what's up here?

I am having a hard time understanding why pot 1 adds no more RPM. It is adding fuel if so long as it is working. Adding fuel has got to change RPM.

I have never once had a Cobra in my hand, but have installed 4 TFI's. 2 on my own Nomads the stolen one as well as the 06 and 2 other bikes.

In all cases RPM was effected to the point I had to trim the black oem throttle body knob to set rpm down before I could finish setting pot 1. RPM became way overly high before I came to best RPM.

When the overly lean demand could be met with more fuel, the engine took it and liked it.

I don't understand.

[jandreu]

Mac, see link below for the instruction sheet that comes with the Cobra. FYI... http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

Also, I'm old school so I always check the spark plugs to see if I'm rich or lean. Before I installed the TFI my plugs were almost bone white now they are a nice toast color, no carbon deposits and even color. No black smoke from the pipes or smell of a overly rich condition.

Go figure... http://s2.images.proboards.com/cool.gif

[rez]

I also have the Cobra fuel processor.....2005 Nomad....Cobra exhaust and Kuryakyn Hypercharger air intake system....all installed by the previous owner. The processor settings are at 3, 4, 0. I have been playing with the idle (green #1) pot and also notice that when adjusting this pot idle speed does not increase. I even turned base idle down so low that the bike hardly runs and then tried adjusting green pot with no effect on idle rpm. My idle speed seems a little inconsistent...the reason I was attempting to adjust. I did clean throttle bodies out and noticed that after cleaning I did have to turn base idle down almost a complete turn with OE black idle speed knob to get proper idle RPM....this also took away most of the inconsistent idle issue. The bike runs good...no pinging and am running 87 fuel grade. I do notice very periodically a 'stumble' when attempting to accelerate off idle...so just from off idle...mild acceleration...engine will 'stumble'...usually 'coughs' thru air intake then accelerates ok. It gives sensation as if it will stall out/quit right at that point but 99% of the time it doesn't...think it has only actually stalled once. Any ideas on this?? As i said it only does this once in a while...randomly...usually accelerates fine. BTW...have new plugs in also. Any thoughts ideas??

[slots]

Well I find some cagers are predators on the road. I just convince them i will taste really bad.

That is the best wisdom I have read in a long time....thanks for the smiles.

Slots

[jandreu]

rez..I have the exact same stumble. Usually after giving the throttle a slight pop, back off and the on again. Sounds like a small back fire thru the air cleaner. I figure it's the pot 2 coming on acting like an accelerator pump causing the backfire sound when I drop the throttle to fast. I wonder if this has anything to do with the Hypercharger. I don't see how but....

[macmac]

CJ, What say yee? Does the Cobra pot fuel idle up in a noticable fashion?

That link to a pdf file? Is that valid my system (the new xp) sent a warning, but i think it is a meaningless warning none the less want confrimation sinceI see a food add.

[cactusjack]

CJ, What say yee? Does the Cobra pot fuel idle up in a noticable fashion?

That link to a pdf file? Is that valid my system (the new xp) sent a warning, but i think it is a meaningless warning none the less want confrimation sinceI see a food add.

Increasing the value of pot 1 on the Cobra does indeed increase the idle...to a point. If I start turning it, idle will increase, peak, then start to decrease as I keep turning the pot.

[Cajunrider]

CJ, What say yee? Does the Cobra pot fuel idle up in a noticable fashion?

That link to a pdf file? Is that valid my system (the new xp) sent a warning, but i think it is a meaningless warning none the less want confrimation sinceI see a food add.

Increasing the value of pot 1 on the Cobra does indeed increase the idle...to a point. If I start turning it, idle will increase, peak, then start to decrease as I keep turning the pot.

Same with TFI

[AlabamaNomadRider]

Thanks for the information Mac. Bubba I thought the number 1 pot on the Cobra adjusted the idle. I never did fool with mine and it is still set at 3-5-0 and seems to do very good. But I would still think that fooling with pot one should change the idle. I may be wrong though.

[upside22]

I tried macmac's advice on setting pot 1 almost two months ago. IT WORKS. Pot 1 had a definite impact on the idle. Turning it created a peak and then a falloff. It wound up set exactly at the Cobra default for a nomad = 3. I haven't yet finished playing with pot 2, setting it is *very* subjective. I'm sure it will wind up close to the default of 5 but I've been playing with settings between 4.5 and 5.5. I tried setting pot 3 to .5 and 1 and couldn't really tell a lot of difference. I think it gets enough gas with WOT from the standard computer.

BTW, I have v&h dual baggers and the dual Cottman air cleaner mod with K&N filters. The mc had the baggers when I bought it. Changing to the Cottman arrangement gives a *real* boost in power when coupled with the Cobra.

I still run higher octane gas most of the time. But I don't have any problem when I have to run 86/87 octane either.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

Thanks Upside, I thought that pot 1 should have effect on the idle. That confirms my thoughts and Mac's also.

[macmac]

I would figure it would Cj, but some of these guys are sayin' Nay, no rpm change and I don't get that idea.

I see a link to a supposed pdf file fr cobra set up, but fear opening it because there is sandwiches adds all over the add.

My best guess is the instructions tell you to power up off a wire like that runs the tail light. To ground another wire, then hook into the 2 wires to the injectors, or just piggy back the connectors to the injectors.

Flip the key On and start the engine, set pot 1 to other than off, and get a green??? led to prove the unit is working.

Probably written as if pot one setting is written in stone for setting 3, and pot two for setting 5, and pot 3 OFF.

If my guess adds up to close, I don't need the pdf file.

So as I see things as i do i would leave pots 2 and 3 off. I would allow the engine to warm up some atleast, then turn up pot 1 to best rpm, and if I didn't get a better rpm instantly I would be all over the wiring looking for a bad ground, or other fault in the wiring. Maybe if the unit comes with scotch locks if a wire has been severed.

I hate scotch locks with passion and predjudiced.

On my 2 Nomads the 1500 and the 1600 RPM with the TFI has always gone into orbit setting pot 1 up. Always i have had to turn down the idle speed with the black knob on the right under where the right side dog bowl used to be. Then return to pot 1 and set it more to pass overly rich, so I know where that location on the clock is.

I can hear the engine bog for being over rich. I make a mental note of that sertting and go back counter clockwise to lean the overly rich mix to a better.

I pass the best rpm moving towards lean, and I can hear that too.

Now i know some place between rich bog and lean stumble is where i want to be.

So I head back clock wise towards rich and hear best RPM. At that point I rev the engine to about cruising spped sound or apx 2,500 rpm on a tach and hold the throttle there a few moments.

I do not gun the engine a rev the begeesus out of it repeatedly, which does no good at all to any parts of the engine, and further enhances a great way to get overly rich.

I just easy roll on some throttle to about 2,500 RPM, and hold it there a few moments to allow the engine to clear itself of a richer mix.

Then ease the throttle down and diak in best RPM. At that point i re-adjust the black knob to a proper idle apx 950 rpm +/- 50 rpm.

Once more i trim pot 1 to best, and then add maybe a 1/4 point towards rich. The TFI has dots between the numbers on the dials. I don't know if Cobra units do, but it won't matter. Between 1 O clock and 2 O clock there is I hours time right? So a point 1/4 point is 15 minutes right? That is what I mean by 1/4 points.

Idle Rpm wants to be a tad rich, because to get a stationary object moving it takes a little extra energy. If you don't there could be a little flat spot.

At that point pot 1 is all set.

Pot 2 requires a dyno run (several) or a back road and some seat of the pants testings.

On the back road you need to know the feel in the seat of your pants and it couild take a few hard runs with just pot 1 ON to know the feel of pot 2 OFF.

That learning is a must do. Then if you want slam pot 2 to 5 on the dial and go ride that same test a few times.

Next set pot 2 at 3:00. Better or worse? Then slam pot 2 to 7:00 and repeat the runs. better or worse?

Find out which setting gives the bike the fastest wack in the seat of your pants. this way, ten refine that in 1/2 points. Then 1/4 points. Then do it again and a gain untill you are sure.

With that done, if you can't stand a down shift cackel and can't find any air leaking into the exhaust, then pot 3 may come into play. This will lower over all MPG's and is only to calm down cackel and make the Nomad sound like a Ford Escort with a slush box tranny and a 24 pack of toliet paper stuffed up the tail pipes so Moma won't whine.

But you can richen up the exhaust this way to make the bike sound as feeble and whimmpy as you want. Adding fuel to be overly rich in te exhauist will calm that racket right down.

Keep pot 3 to no more than 1/2 point on the clock, as much higher will be way too much in cruise mode and you will be sniffin fuel at cruise.

Now all the above works for all stock set ups as well, but the numbers are going to be LESS. The factory numbers are based on intakee mods AND exhaust mods already done to the bike.

Since a stock bike has a very restricted air flow IN and also has a overly back pressured exhaust the numbers are not going to be the same thing.

The simple facts are the AIR to Fuel mix needs to be about 14:1 14 is air thank god.

With a restriction you will get only so much air, and so to make a part of that be 1 you will not add the pot setting of 3 and call it good on pot 1.

The same goes for a stock exhaust, or even a debaffeled exhaust. It will not allow full breathing.

Just try running with a sock balled up in your mouth, then try it with no sock. Then with a weight lifters belt snugged up so tight you can hardly breath at all go for another run, then do it agin wih no belt and see which one is fastest.

Even the 1600 with a right side air and V&H is still restricted. This is due to the too smakk intake throttle body and the overly restricked baffels in the V&H pipes. nNot only that but the cams are sweethheart touring cams and not Ka tanka ta Ka tanka ta Ka tanka ta full race high lift long duration cams. (I wish)

Of course then the bike would not be any sort of touring bike, It would transform into a bar hopper and be all mean and nasty. We all would have tranny gears, final drive and other parts blown all over the parking lots in the USA http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

Big hunks of rubber from inside the compound rear wheel would be everywhere too. Head gaskets would be poppin head off and leaks would occure everywhere.

We would be milling head to boost compression to be no less than 13:1 and forced to run avation fuel.

Pretty soon BD would have the formula for raw booze power, a real honest MOONSHINE mix.

We would end up at the liqor store instead of the gas pumps, and last time I saw the liquor store the price of a 5th of vodka was more than a gallon of gas.

[cactusjack]

You're pretty close on the install, Mac. There is no power connection, though. You just need to ground the unit, preferably to the (-) battery terminal, plug the harness in to the injectors, and that's it. Adjustment is as you stated. A green LED lights to show the unit is working. A red LED lights when the pot 2 circuit is activated, such as goosing the throttle.

[macmac]

Must pick up power on the injectors direct then. The TFI has a power up wire, which gets connected to the tail light wire.

[redjay]

If I remember correctly on the Dobeck TFI there is a black wire that goes to the battery negative. The other two leads go to the injectors and your done.

[Cajunrider]

Not the plug and play Mac. It gets it's power from the injector cables. Just run the ground cable to the negative battery post.

[rez]

Thanks Mac and others for more input on this. As i said I'm not noticing idle change with green pot adjustment (Cobra Fi2000). Should this happen regardless if bike has air/exhaust mods or not?? My Cobra instructions tap wires to each injector (blue w/red and blue w/green). One wire tap to red tailight wire and ground preferably at battery neg. Seems my Led's operation verify wiring is correct. I will thoroughly check all connections and wiring. This was all done by previous owner.

[jandreu]

I'm with rez on this. I have the plug and play, grounded to the battery. LED's work correctly but pot 1 makes NO differance in idle.
I'll try it again this weekend.

Have been playing with the setting and have now settled on 2,5,0. With pot 1 higher than 2 I get a dead throttle at WOT, 4th gear, 50mph.

Mac, the adds you are seeing on the link are part of proboards, theres a small click here note at the top of the add to open the pdf file.

[upside22]

If you can't see an rpm change with the pot 1 then I would look for other problems. Clean the throttle bodies with a toothbrush and mass air sensor cleaner and see if that changes your idle. Pull the cover off the right side air cleaner body and start the bike. See if the idle changes, it should change because it will be getting more air (running without the cover for a short time won't hurt anything). I might even take the mass air sensor cleaner and try spraying it around the vacuum hoses on the bike to see if you have any vacuum leaks.

It might even be possible that the leds on the unit are working but the unit isn't actually doing anything. I'm not sure how you would check that.

Adding more or less fuel at an idle *should* change the idle speed. If it doesn't then something just isn't quite right.

[macmac]

Both the TFI and Cobra Plug n' Play have no red power up wire?

The solder in TFI has, atleast the 4 I installed so far do. 2 were mine and 2 were for other folks.

I have never held a plug n play unit of either in my grubby mitts.

[rez]

I just cleaned my throttle bodies....mentioned it in an earlier post....after the cleaning I noticed the idle was higher so I had to turn it down with the base idle black knob (probably about a full turn). I then attempted the pot adjustments but could notice no change in idle when turning the green pot..as I stated I will be checking wiring and connections tommorrow. Thanks

[rez]

Checked wiring....it is all correct and soldered except for the red ('tail light') tap wire which had one of those T-tap connectors...I removed it and soldered this wire too. On testing all Led's light up properly as per instructions showing that the Cobra is wired correctly and should be working correctly. I notice on the Cobra site that the Fi2000 is no longer 'available' for the Nomad 1600 it is now the Fi2000R. So some upgrades/changes I guess since mine was installed. I also notice the Fi2000R plugs on to the injectors directly instead of tapping into the injector wiring as with the Fi2000. I will play with adjustments again and see what happens.

[macmac]

REZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Is your unit not plug n play?

If not check the ecu wires again. If i recall there are 2 gray and almost same pink wires.

I have one hell of a time seeing these dull pastel shades, so I use a ohms meter with the BATTERY disconnected to be sure I am on the correct wire.

I can tell the sole green and gray, but the other 2 are so alike I have no choice but to test and see the wire i select is the right wire.

I have no idea what happens if you choose the wrong pink and gray wire.

[rez]

No Mac....not plug and play. It is correct for the bike....the previous owner gave me the paper work....which says for 'Nomad 1600D 05-up'. Colouring is correct....paper work says tap into Blue w/red and Blue/wgreen injector? ECU wires...which is how it is done. I confirmed all colours with wiring schematic. LED's light up properly confirming wiring is correct...they give scenerios of different LEd's lighting if injector wiring is incorrect...I don't have any of that. Black wire to battery neg. and red wire to tailight red wire. This is all correct. I know what ur saying about the colours...very difficult to decifer.

[macmac]

Oh that's blue? Looks gray to me. Triple check the blue/red gray / red what ever in jumpin blue blazes that color is, because there is 2 wires near to the very same with my eyes.

That was such a problem for me that i had to test in Ohms modes on every instal I have done so far. Counting pin number in the book was checked too, but i don't trust any books, since I never yet ound one all accurate and the 1600 book is just loaded with errors.

If I had a mememory that functioned i could remember which of the 2 blasted wires are which, but I can't. I can't tell you what I had for dinner last night, but i am pretty sure I had dinner last night.

Since I have no short term memory any time i enter a bar i think I married to every gal in there. It works fer me http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

I just keep going around sayin Hey Baby till i don't get shot down and the one that doesn't say Drop Dead, ends up as my real wife!

[rez]

Triple checked...wiring is ok. Got around to try some processor adjustments....turned all 3 pots to '0'....I thought bike actually ran well....I couldn't notice a big difference from 3-4-0 setting. So now I'm questioning myself, my abilities, my knowledge...maybe I'm losing it. Took it on the highway...ran it hard...no pinging and I'm on 87 fuel. I don't get it. If anything acceleration maybe a tad sluggish. Green #1 pot still not affecting idle speed at all. Seems the processor isn't really doing anything???? I called Cobra....tech seems to think Hypercharger is the issue....didn't have much good to say about Kuryakyn....says I should go to stock filter setup with a K&N in the stock filter bowl...left side. Maybe he's Cobra brainwashed. I don't really buy his advice. Suggested to disconnect neg. from processor...disabling it...and see how it runs. Also suggested to wire open 'flaps'on Kuryakyn hypercharger. Anyway maybe I'm getting anal about all this...bike actually runs decent/good and mileage is decent...somethings just don't seem to add up though. Almost seems/indicates bike is running rich...i even checked to see if previous owner maybe installed resistor across air temp sensor to richen fuel....but don't see anything. But i have and see no indications that it is rich...decent fuel mileage...no black smoke or sooty pipes. Appreciate all your comments.

[jandreu]

I'm with you rez on scratching my head on this one. I have basically the same setup as you. Pot 1 makes no difference in idle speed. I did play with the settings some more and have settled on 2,4,0. When I turn pot 2 higher than 4 I randomly get the little intake backfire. With pot 1 higher than 2 the bike feels rich as with WOT it feels dead until I back off a little. No ping..period. Bike has never pinged on 92 octane regardless of load. I think my Nomad my be one that came from the factory with the mixture close to correct. The Cobra has helped with the stumbling between 1st and 2nd and the bike pulls harder so I'm happy.

[macmac]

Strange.

Well try this, and I hope you have a tach, any tach will do if the bike has one the better if not borrow one for 4,6 and 8 cys, and set it to 4 clys.

The tach will read low, but we won't care about that much. clip the lead to a car test shop tach to the coil left side number 1 all black lead.

ground the other tach lead to the frame, on a bolt and make sure it is grounded.

If the tach wiorks it is grounded.

Pull the flapper hose off the hyper charger so the spring holds the flappers wide open.

Set all pot to off.

Start the engine and let it warm. If you have a throttle lock set rpm to 1,400 on a bike tach 800 on a 4 banger tach. If there is no lock stuff cardboard between the throittle grip and the clamp just ahead of it to hold the throttle open some. You can vary the rpm up a bit more, just don't get crazy. Lets say no higher than 2,000 bike tach rpm.

(BE CERTAIN the bike will not shift into 1st gear!) I have seen this happen 2 times. Only on HD's and with new riders standing next to the right side reving the jumpin' begeesus outta the engine much higher and reving up and down gunning the engine in neutral. What happens next is grim.

Then turn pot 1 only up watching the tack and listening for increase rpm.

[jandreu]

Mac, yes I have a throttle lock and a tach.

Here's my setup;
1600, debaffled, coasters, Thunder Mfg. Adapter with standard Hypercharger and a Stinger trap door [gives more air]. I went with the Thunder Mfg. adapter for the Hypercharger as it allows more leg room and I did not like the look of the Pro Hypercharger. Cobra FI2000r plug and play.

Bike bone stock never and I do mean never had any ping on 92 octane. I ride from sea level to 1200 feet most days in a 5 mile stretch. Ride two up 500 lbs total passenger weight up the grade, bike has never pinged. I only went with the Cobra as I installed the Hypercharger and did not want to take any chances plus the Cobra has solved most of the other Nomad issues. I don't think I'm getting that much more air out of the Hypercharger as the Thunder Adapter looks fairly restricted, with the Stinger trap door the Hypercharger is not as dependent on the air coming through the butterfly's also [not sure if you know this] the Hypercharger's have another opening on the bottom that also allows air in. So that's three different openings for air intake. As you know the butterfly's are just for show, no go!

I do know what ping is as my Harley is tuned a little lean and it does ping coming up the grade if I get on it with to low RPM.

The issue with pot 1 not increasing the idle as you feel it should does bother me as while I'm fairly mechanical however you are a better wrench than I am and I would like to find out the issue.

I'll do the test you recommended as soon as I can, probably tomorrow, and repost with the results.

[Cajunrider]

I adjusted my #1 pot today for the first time in over a year. I installed aftermarket pipes and wanted to be sure that the fuel/air mix wasn't too lean which could/would result in premature blueing of the new pipes. It was set at 3:30. I backed it down to the off position (1:00) and the engine rpm's immediately fell. I advanced it slowly and the rpm's increased until I got to around 4:30 and began falling when I approached 5:30 - 6:00. I came back down to 3:00 and advanced it to 4:00 and left it there. Took a 200 mile trip in 100+ degree temperatures. No pinging with 89 octane. Well, I didn't hear any pinging. 39 mpg on the trip. I'm happy. Back to the original topic, my rpm's changed with pot #1 adjustments just like they always did.

[rez]

Hey Mac.....i did as you suggested. AT this point I haven't used a tach though....think I am mechanical enough to guess and hold rpm between 1400-2000....zeroed pots and adjusted #1..... could notice a definite idle increase while adjusting...not huge ...but some. And then dropping off as i kept adjusting. Picked spot at highest RPM and then backed off just a hair...which puts the pot at about 3.5. I had the hypercharger flapper vacuum pot disconnected and vac. line plugged. Bike now seems to idle just a tad higher and a little smoother. Not sure about the 'cough' thru the intake yet ( from off idle to acceleration)...is kind of a random issue. May try running hypercharger with flapper held wide open and vac. pot line disconnected. I have fairly large plexiglass lowers...my design/copy....which would prevent/protect intake from 'inhaling' excess in heavy rain. Should i be ok with flapper held open 'permanently' ? Thanks again for the help. Will play with #2 pot.....currently set at 5. Have left 3 at '0'. I am not a fan of this hypercharger....interferes big time with right leg/knee....which interfers with getting ur foot on the brake pedal...i extended pedal mount...my own design.... to help with this.....not too bad the way i have it right now. Hypercharger looks 'mean' but question it's functionability and efficiency compared to the much cheaper plates and open filter set up. In my opinion...lots of show.

[jandreu]

OK, I could not wait and had a few minutes to spare.

Started the bike and let it warn up. Idle is normal at 950.

With the idle at 950 pot 1 has no affect on idle speed.

Set rpm to 1500 with throttle lock, adjusting pot 1, from 0 to 2ish the rpm did increase to around 2100/2200, from 2ish to 4ish the idle increased another 500 rpm or so, above 4 the idle started to drop off. Tried this several times with about the same results. With the rpm below 1500 pot 1 has no affect in idle speed.

The Cobra instructions states"This adjustment works from either idle or above idle [varies with bike] to a RPM of about 5000 [also varies with bike]."

So it appears the Cobra may not affect idle, at idle speed, on some bikes.

I have settled on 2,4,0 and feel this works well for my bike and ridin style. While doing test runs with pot 1 above 2 I felt the bike was rich as at 55mph up hill with WOT roll on the top of the throttle feels dead, back off the throttle a little and the speed picks up a little. Pot 1 at 2 and the dead throttle at WOT feels much better.

Whew...at least we got the pot 1 no idle affect issue answered. http://s2.images.proboards.com/cool.gif http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

[jandreu]

rez, try backing off pot 2 to see if the pop or intake backfire goes away. That helped mine alot.

I agree with you that the Pro Hypercharger interfers with your leg. The thunder Adapter with the standard Hypercharger only sticks out 1/2 inch more than the stock dog bowl. But it probally does not flow as well. Like I said all show, no go. But I do like the look.

[rez]

Bubba....my idle didn't change that much while adjusting #1 pot....but didn't have a tach set up on it either. But change was noticeable...first increasing then dropping off. My #2 pot was set at 4....now have it at 5....just experimenting with some different settings for that pot. The intake 'backfire' is very intermittent...sometimes doesn't do it at all...other times maybe only once or twice during the course of a good ride.

[rez]

Well...have been doing some more experimental adjustments but am having no success to eliminate or improve occassional/random 'cough' thru carb. As stated this happens just when going to accelerate from idle. Even at very mild acceleration. I guess it is a 'backfire' but very mild...not a load bang...like a 'cough' (but thru the carb). Yesterday out a good part of the day and no issues...although one stall at a light...never had done this before. Stopped at light clutch in....accelerated 2-3 times and engine stalled...started right up. Hasn't done this before. Out this morning and 'coughed' thru carb at least 3 times???? Otherwise bike performs runs well...maybe I'm just too anal. When it does cough thru carb gives the sensation it will stall....and (usually) doesn't. Am concerned of stall outs when taking off and getting rear ended...or stall outs when down shifting...throttle closed. Any other thoughts /ideas/suggestions would be appreciated...thanks for all so far.

[macmac]

Rez turn up base idle a little. That is just the black knob. I get the idea that may have been turned down somewhere in time a tad too much. This may not reduce the spitting, but it should help the stalling.

My 06 has stalled 3 times in the 4 years now i had it. I think what happened in my instances is that i closed the throttle too fast. Since there is cables there is ecu lag, not much, but it still is there.

Bubba, you need a freer flow exhaust http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif The intake is restricted by what exhaust can get out. I can understand why pot 1 will be a lower than book spec. the mix you are matching to the air, is the best it can be with a choked exhaust.

What gear is this 55 mph up hill at? Probably that in 3rd gear is crossing out of pot 1 and in to pot 2.

Pot 1 sets mix at idle, and crosses into mid range rpm, riding easy. Pot 2 works like an accelerator pump on a Holley 4 barrel. The Holly being adjustable in degrees of fuel delivery, this is another way electronic of course.

If this 55 mph is in 4th or 5th these are both over drives.

[macmac]

I adjusted my #1 pot today for the first time in over a year. I installed aftermarket pipes and wanted to be sure that the fuel/air mix wasn't too lean which could/would result in premature blueing of the new pipes. It was set at 3:30. I backed it down to the off position (1:00) and the engine rpm's immediately fell. I advanced it slowly and the rpm's increased until I got to around 4:30 and began falling when I approached 5:30 - 6:00. I came back down to 3:00 and advanced it to 4:00 and left it there. Took a 200 mile trip in 100+ degree temperatures. No pinging with 89 octane. Well, I didn't hear any pinging. 39 mpg on the trip. I'm happy. Back to the original topic, my rpm's changed with pot #1 adjustments just like they always did.

This is what I consider to be Normal :) other than any needs for 89 octane. The other day i rode almost to that 200 and get 0 ping and it was 100+ maybe 103 tops. Humid too.

[macmac]

Last in 3 posts in a bloomin row http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif is if i miss a thread since i do many and do other sites, shoot me a pm. I got a memory that would fit on a pin point!

Iv'e been dating a new girl every day since 1990 I think. All I know is there is a strange women in my bed when i wake up in the morning, If i go shopping, i see her following me around and then later she serves up some pretty good grub.

[jandreu]

Mac, Thanks yes a freer exhaust would help but I'm happy with it the way it is. I do not want a louder exhaust. I have a 2 into 1 Thunder Header on my Harley and after ridin for an hour I can't hear through my right ear for awhile.

The roll on at 55 mph with the Nomad is in 5th gear. Yes I realize 5th is more of an overdrive. Thanks again.

[macmac]

4th and 5th are both over drives... You ain't goin licketty split up any real mountins in 5th, unless you get off and push too. http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

The V&H baggers can be tamed. A lot of that rackets is from a direct intent to twist the wrist too. But you can tame baggers.

[rez]

Just did a 4 day 1400 Km ride/holiday. No real issues. Turned idle up slightly as mac suggested. Only one stall during the trip.....shut bike down to talk with buddies.....on leaving started up fine and idling fine......went to accelerate slightly to ride away....bike stalled (I didn't stall it out...motor just quit running)...started right up immediately and no further problems???? Rode with 2 other friends...all of us 2 up and with some gear...I was getting the worst fuel mileage....the other bikes...a 2010 Harley Ultra and a 2007 Yamaha Roadstar 1700 beat me at the pump every time...sometimes close but usually up to a few litres difference on fill ups. My bike was the only one with mods.

[trosco]

Read the posts with interest. I bought a FI2000R early in their offering several years ago. The instructions that came with it were for a Vulcan but not a Nomad. Cobra emailed me the correct instructions for the install but not the adjusting page. Went through the installation up to the point of having lights over pot 1 with power and pot 2 if heavy application of throttle and then called them. The guys instructions were simple. Said turn all three pots counter clockwise to 0, start a warm bike and do your adjustments but stop and let bike cool before continuing if radiator fan comes on. To adjust pot one preset engine idle to 1500-1800 RPM then adjust pot slowly clockwise. RPM will probably rise, continue until Idle quality deteriorates then turn back to best quality idle. To adjust pot 2: set at pot 1 setting +2 and leave pot 3 at 0 unless engine has internal performance mods. This worked really well. Subsequently we have done some minor mods to the heads and we put bike on chassis dyno to adjust. The get pot 1 correct and then set pot 2 to pot 1 value plus 2 continued to work. Pot 3 is at 0.5 in my bike, the tuner said that it's impact was so negligible that he was almost embarrassed to say that he adjusted it.
Topic 2 is the "pop-stall" and I and my friend both had that on our 07 Nomads. It was there with stock intake and exhaust and through debaffles, V&H duals, K&N filters in stock intake, Hyper charger and now a modified set of intake runners and a home grown intake plate and filter set up. (I will up date my pics someday, don't have the fairing anymore either). Some bikes seem more prone to ping and others hardly do but they seem to have the "pop-stall" problem. I think the variation in electronics leads to one tendency or the other. The tuner said that my bike goes extremely lean below 1000RPM (ratios above 30:1) and that he would recommend never idling it below 1000RPM.
I try to keep it around 1050 +/- 50 and notice that lessons the number of off idle "pops" and nearly eliminates the stall part. As the throttle bodies get dirty and idle drops the problem seems to come back some so I clean mine every other oil change. Hope this helps someone. my fingers are tired and I feel a bit like mac!

[jandreu]

Trosco, great info..thanks http://s2.images.proboards.com/cool.gif