winterize

[duneseven]

Ok it's time once again in the great northwest to garage the ride. I am curious as to how many steps you all consider to be necessary for this process. I try to keep it pretty simple I made add a battery tender to the below process
1 new oil crank and drive
2 gas extender
3 clean
4 cover
5 wait impatiently for warmer weather
6 spend all winter polishing snow shovel and and snow blower operation

[markusmaximus]

Ok it's time once again in the great northwest to garage the ride. I am curious as to how many steps you all consider to be necessary for this process. I try to keep it pretty simple I made add a battery tender to the below process
1 new oil crank and drive
2 gas extender
3 clean
4 cover
5 wait impatiently for warmer weather
6 spend all winter polishing snow shovel and and snow blower operation

Here's what I do.
1 new oil crank and drive - yes
2 gas extender - yes
3 clean - yes
4 cover - no (i keep my precious in my attached garage)
5 battery tender - yes
6 start up weekly - yes
7 wait impatiently for warmer weather - always

I don't own a snow blower but my back tells me I should.

[duneseven]

I would not exist without the S/B it is a back saver record snow fall or close to it the last 2 years. I am a proponet of global warming At this point

[coacha]

Hmm...interesting topic, I don't understand this whole topic though. It is 90+ today.

[psychocycle]

It was a sad :-[ day yesterday as I stored mine for the winter. Very early this year compared to previous years. But it has been going down to -10 at night and the ground is covered in snow, so it was time.

Here is what I do:

1 new oil crank and final drive - yes
2 fuel stabilizer - yes
3 clean and polish - yes
4 cover - yes - keeps the winter dust off (and I keep mine stored in it's own garage)
5 battery tender - no (I remove the battery and trickle charge it inside, too cold to leave in at -35 all winter even with the trickle charger)
6 start up weekly - no (this is not a good idea, starting a bike for ten minutes will cause it to build up moisture that can cause damage)
7 store on jack to take weight off the tires and suspension
7 wait impatiently for warmer weather - you bet (and look for and install goodies over the winter, come spring ride it!)

[blowndodge]

What is this "Winterizing" stuff???? http://s2.images.proboards.com/shocked.gif ;)

[Top Cat]

Wash and polish , add sta-bil, run for ten min., put in garage, hook up Shumacker battery charger, that's it.
Oil change comes in the spring with other checks.

[chainsaw]

I'm glad I don't have to do all that work.

[audiogooroo]

What is this "Winterizing" stuff???? http://s2.images.proboards.com/shocked.gif ;)
Something real men do! :)

[cactusjack]

What is this "Winterizing" stuff???? http://s2.images.proboards.com/shocked.gif ;)
Something real men do! :)

Real men ride, AG. http://s2.images.proboards.com/tongue.gif

[jmorrow]

Hmm...interesting topic, I don't understand this whole topic though. It is 90+ today.

Trouble maker!!!!! http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

[psychocycle]

Oil change comes in the spring with other checks.

Residual fuel and contaminants in the oil can oxidize causing pitting over a six month (or longer here) period. I always error on the side of caution and change out fluids prior to saying goodnight. As well, there is no need to do an oil change in the spring. This is in part, why under no circumstances, will I start my bike over the storage period because I want clean oil with no combustion contamination in the motor over the winter. All this being said, everyone has their own approach to storing their bikes.

Hey, to all you Southern Brethren, we Northerners would love to ride all year round like you. But when we do get to ride it just means that much more to us. Thats why we will even ride in the rain and some snow. http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

[dougster]

One thing I would add: Park the bike with the tires on some wood or thick cardboard. Better for the tires than bare concrete. Or better yet, put it on a motorcycle jack.

And it is indeed a bad idea to start the bike during the winter, unless you are able to take it out for 10+ miles, so that you burn off any moisture created by the engine running.

[markusmaximus]

I'm glad to read the suggestions to not start the bike. I was always under the impression it was good to start it periodically.

[schoeney]

Well...I got a related question. Last year was my first winter. I rode my bike at least one day (50 miles or more each time-sometimes 150+) every month during the "cold months" of Nov, Jan, Feb and Mar.

In addition I would start it once a week, it is stored in my garage, and I keep a tender on it all the time.

Do you think this process is hurting or helping?

[blowndodge]

Just the thought makes me cold Shoeney!! http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

[skeeter]

1) Put on bar "chaps"/ air dam.
2) take seat beads in house
3) change to full face helmet
4) wear heavy leather jacket
5) keep neck warmer and tourmaster gauntlets in saddle bags
6)start and ride once a week

[phenrichs]

My process is much simpler.

1. Clean off all bugs. Bug guts can pit chrome and tarnish paint if left too long.
2. fill gas tank and add fuel stabilizer
3. put in shed
4. battery tender - I used to remove the battery and put it in the house

I prefer to do all the oil changing and that in the spring. The temps swing wildly over the winter months here so I prefer that any condensation that could develop in the engine gets washed out with a spring oil change.

[just call me Mr. Hibbs]

Check this out from Gadjet http://www.gadgetjq.com/winterprep.htm

[psychocycle]

Check this out from Gadjet http://www.gadgetjq.com/winterprep.htm

Didn't see this before but as usual Gadget covers the topic nicely. http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif I have been tempted many times to take my bike out on a nice day but know that all the work I did to get it ready for the winter will become undone.

[redjay]

I put mine away for the winter today. Removed the battery.
Washed the bike and cleaned all the bugs off. Dried it thoroughly. Waxed the paintwork. Put it in the shed. Put a lock on the front wheel through the forks. Put on the bike cover. Covered that with a tarp. Locked the shed for what will be probably be 6 months. Bwaaaaaah.

[jamiep24]

I feel for you fellas.....I really do.

[landman]

i never really store a bike for winter even here in wyoming.we had two feet of snow this past weekend.i ride once or twice
per month even in winter on the nicer days.i do add stabil and keep the bike on a battery tender.

[glwilson]

Tough guys ride all year-round -- even if it's cold.

I am NOT a tough guy... the bike is down for the winter with most all of the preps mentioned done.

I would mention that it is not good to start your bike occasionally throughout the winter UNLESS you intend to let it get to full temperature for a reasonably long period of time -- and that means an hour at minimum.

Not doing so will cause moisture build-up in the fluids which can be corrosive -- which equals damage you don't see -- but eventually will endure if you own the bike for any length of time.

For those that ride somewhat consistantly during the cold months enough to get the bike "hot" won't have quite the same problem as those that only occasionally go out and start their bikes to see if it still runs.

My manual is specific in mentioning this issue.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

If I were going to park my bike for an extended period of time I would just shoot myself.

Only kidding, I plan on riding most days during our winter unless it is raining.

If I were to park one I would take the spark plugs out and add some oil in each one then put the plug back in. Read in storing for winter this is a good thing to do.

I went to Korea for a year and left my Goldwing parked at my Dad's. When I came back and charged the battery it was locked up. The only way I could get it started was by pulling it and then oil started running out the tailpipes. I didn't prepare the bike for storage and paid the price. Of course I was lots younger and dumber then.

This might be a time to use some Sea Foam or other product of your choice in the gas tank and the crankcase and start it once or twice a week. This would dissapate any moisture that might build up in the engine. Just a thought.

Man, this is when I really love the South!! GA summers are killer but riding in the winter is no prob. I think even living up north I would have to ride weekly. I just dont feel the same when Im not riding. I my thoughts are with you all :)

[ringadingh]

I ride right up untill they salt the roads here, then I wash and park the bike. If its close to oil changing time I will change it, if its just been done recently I leave it in. I add Seafoam to the fuel tank and put the battery on charge for a couple hours every three or four weeks. Thats it.

[macmac]

1st salt and my bike goes in fer winta'.... So far I have never seen a rider at -40 below.

The bike sleeps in an enclosed trailer, so I bring the battery and all vinals inside, and the battery kives on a 1.5amp charger that has sulfation pulse.. (new 19 and change Shumaker!)

I clean and wax everything, fog the internal engine, and stuff rags in the intake and exhaust to keep any varmints out.

Starting a bike once a week is no favors. That just makes water in the oil, and that in turn becomes sulfuic acid.

I jack up the bike a little and block the suspention, but the tires touch the floor.

Once a week I go check things since condensation is still taking place, and may try to insulate the trailer so the temp changes are slower.


I don't shovel walkways, as thats what snoe shoes are for, but I will shovel off the roof and windows..

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll275/Mac_Muz/Wintah%2008_09/wwwSnow_shop1_3_2_09.jpg

[duneseven]

damn mac it would be a lot less work to just move

[cyclecat]

WOW! What a lot of work. Are we nuts or is every else? We park the Nomads in the unheated garage , take out the key, and walk away. One battery is 9 years old, the other 7 (no battery tender, no trickle charger) and in the spring we change oil, hit the starter, and away we go.

[macmac]

CC, that might work a while.... Hard on batterys, vinal and leather... I plan to have this Nomad as my last bike, or one of them.

Over winter used oil contains acids that will eat the babbit bearings when used in engines, eat the alloy in these engines at the cams, and other webbing, when the contaminates settle out of suspenion.

In my experience what happens with a cam shaft that sits with old oil, parked is the oil at the oil gallery gets cut off from flowing back. So the oil sits in a spot against the head where the bearing is the head, machined right into it and there is no bearing to replace.

The oil settles, and turns to acid, which eats a hole, in part by galvanic action.

The hole is irregular, and the top edges of the holle are brittle and thin.

Spring comes and the engine is started to warm oil for the spring change. The turning cam shaft with plenty of cold oil to raise pressure chips the edges of the hole. Then the alloy gags in the cam oil gallerym adhearing to gaul the machined in bearing...

No possible fix... Replace the head replace the cam, and anything else.

I have no more idea if this has happened or not on your bikes, but it isn't going to happen to mine.

With my own eyes I have seen this in all sorts of engines.. It happens to main bearings too which are usually babbit and can be replaced. The damage looks like some wild pine borroer ate babbit. At least you can replace main bearings and rod bearings. But it ain't cheap.

At least change the oil and filter.
.................................................. ......................................
Last winter on the level un-plowed feild there was well over 5 feet of snow most of winter, and the year before 6' 6". The barn is my enemy as it's roof is not steep enough to shed snow.

Mid west const won't quite cut it here in NH. That roof is spmething like 6/12, and around here 13/12 works best http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

[fakebikerdude59]

Here's our Winterizing Plan: http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

1. Base Gear (the cheap stuff from Wally's)
2. Gerbing Heated Vest
3. Fieldsheer Winter Jacket and Overpants (also great rain protection)
4. Gerbing G3 Heated Gloves
5. Gerbing Heated Boot Insoles
6. Fleece Neckgaitor
7. FF Modular Helmet
8. Airlite Crashbar Chaps
9. Snuggle up to Tammi on the Back
10. Ride...Stop for Food...Ride....Stop for Food and Gas....Repeat

This works except for about 6 weeks in Jan and Feb when it's just too miserable to get out. I spent 10 years in Kansas going to college and working afterwards. Now, they had some real winter weather...I don't miss that!

Here's one from Road Runner Magazine that backs up MacMac on the oil change almost verbatim. I'm changing the oil and filter if I store my bike this winter in NJ. Right now I'm getting all the cold weather gear for myself including the hand guards discussed on another thread.
Enjoy!!
Tom

Touring Tip: Checklist for Winterizing Your Bike
Because most mechanical systems perform best when they're used regularly, the most effective way of preparing your bike for winter is to simply keep riding and maintaining it. But most of us, unfortunately, don't live in a climate that allows a 365-day riding year. Consequently, we need to prepare our rides for some period of winter storage. Here's a quick checklist to help you make sure the job gets done properly:

Store Properly: Indoor (heated if possible) storage is best for guarding against moisture and rust. To prevent flat spots from developing on tires, store the bike on its centerstand with most of its weight off of the wheels. If that's not possible, move the motorcycle slightly every month.

Stabilize the Fuel: Fill gas tank and add fuel stabilizer to the gas. With fuel-injected bikes, run the engine so the treated fuel gets into the injectors. With carburetor(s) turn off petcock, drain float bowl(s).

Tend to the Battery: Attach maintenance charger to battery. If battery is a non-sealed type, check fluid levels and add distilled water if needed. Avoid using trickle chargers, which overcharge batteries in storage

Lubricate Controls and Other Mechanical Parts: Lubricate cables, change front fork oil as required by owner's manual and oil other exterior unsealed moving parts.

Change Engine Oil and Filter: Because old oil can develop acidic qualities and cause corrosion, change it prior to storage and possibly again in the spring.

Inspect/Lubricate Final Drive: Chains should be cleaned, checked for proper tension and lubricated. Check the oil level on shaft drive bikes and add or replace it as necessary.

Inspect/Service Cooling System: For water-cooled bikes, test the coolant for freeze protection. Look for any signs of rust or leakage, ensure that coolant level is at the proper level--drain and flush and replace coolant every two years.

Inspect/Service Brakes: Remove the brake pads and check the calipers for corrosion. If left unchecked, corroded parts can eventually cause brakes to seize up. Replace faulty parts as necessary.

Inspect/Replace Tires: Check condition of tires, including tread depth. Tires with wear bars showing or 3/32 or less of tread remaining, or older than six years should be replaced.

Inspect/Service Electrical System: Look for any signs of corrosion on exposed electrical connections. A thin coating of silicone dielectric grease can help prevent corrosion.

Replace Brake/Clutch Fluids: Brake fluid can absorb moisture over time, causing corrosion and loss of braking effectiveness. It's best to replace those fluids yearly, but be sure to use only the recommended fluid from a sealed container.

Check Torque of Threaded Fasteners: Ensuring that key nuts and bolts (i.e., those that could threaten life or limb if they became loose) are at their proper tightness is especially important.

Clean/Protect Surfaces: Give your bike a thorough cleaning and then polish and wax all painted and chrome surfaces; clean and polish aluminum and stainless steel surfaces with the appropriate metal polish and then apply a protective coating.

Inspect/Replace Air Filter: Inspect the air filter to determine if it needs cleaning or replacement.

Clean and Treat Leather: Using a high quality dressing to clean and preserve all leather surfaces.

Treat Cylinder Walls: To help prevent cylinder wall and piston ring corrosion, remove spark plug(s) and add 25cc of motor oil. Then, with plugs removed, use the starter to turn the motor over several times to distribute the oil. Reinstall spark plugs and tighten to the specified torque.

Consult Owner's Manual: As a final check to make sure you haven't missed anything, review the maintenance schedule in your owner's manual to determine if any other services are required.

Many, if not most, of the above procedures will be within the mechanical knowledge and skill level of the owner. However, if you're ever in doubt about something, it's always advisable to consult a trained professional technician.

[ccmjr77]

I winterize by putting on my jacket, full finger gloves and chaps if it is real cold (below 50 or so) and RIDE!!!!

[macmac]

Well then I will expect to see some winter riders this year around when it is -40 or colder Right? http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif Oh sure I will....

Don't Wa and Or get road salt?

As to brake dust it too is a corrosive and at times needs to be cleaned off the wheels which it will eat if any metal exposed.

That dust loves alloy wheels, and will eat steel too. It isn't as bad as salt but it is a close runner up.

Winters riders don't have a thing on snowmobilers. I get to play in what ever it is, and have worked at -69.

I got to play in that with winds at 125 MPH once. Makes standing hard to do and I almost got frost bite on my covered face.

I didn't feel uncomfortable at all, but a photo I saw taken then said so.

Worst job I ever did was cut out and install a U joint on a skidder still stuck in the woods at -40. I brought a plumbers torch to heat the wrenches with as i can't work in gloves.

I miss riding, but hunting happens, then my spikes and ice axe come out to play, and before long it is sugarin time with lots of nice mud, and a crop of new frost rock pushed up to get out of the garden..

For the guys that come ridin' here at -40 I'll have the tent out fer ya's! http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

[rickyboy]

I do most of what's been mentioned so far. I've now added a few more steps. Thanks "mr. hibbs"
for the "Gadget page"And Xgringo for the "road Runner page".

Here on the west coast as everyone knows, it rains on occasion during the winter months. http://s2.images.proboards.com/shocked.gif ::) Other than once or maybe twice, I read here to keep the storage area heated.
I always leave an elec. oil heater on when the Nomad {"Nan"} goes into storage. Obviously it won't alleviate all the moisture issues but it has to help keeping the bike warmer than without the heater. I try to keep the heat in the garage at about 60F -65F. I'm surprised it isn't on other peoples "check list" . Especially those in colder climates like Edmonton, Calgary. Maybe those members just forgot to mention that they do run heat in their storage areas. I'm guessing but say....in Calgary where it can get darn cold with snow, and then have a "schnook" come in and get warm, only to have it get cold again in short order, ...isn't that even be more of an issue? warm ....cold....warm cold again. Everytime it warms and cools doesn't that cause even more moisture? Anyone know if that's worse for a stored motor vehicle ?

Oh and you guys in the south that can't IMAGINE having to do all this hard work and prep for our down time......It only brings us closer with our beloved Nomads. http://s2.images.proboards.com/tongue.gif

[macmac]

O'ld run heat but haven't figured out how to in a trailer. The trailer is calmer than the barn. Since there is a full tank of gas the house isn't a great option with insurance policys as they are.

My 81 sx850sh Liberty Bike lives in the cellar with no fuel in the tank and the cap popped open.. i can't afford another rape on NH registration.

[rickyboy]

ahh mac? http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh319/sentpacking/00000117760-HolmesMicathermicCNSLhe.jpg

works for me.

[fakebikerdude59]

They occasionally use salt in WA, but heavy snow is pretty rare and if they do use it, it's gone pretty quickly. I clean the bike after every ride in the winter, too. (Keeps me out of trouble with something to do.)

[macmac]

I heat the bed room with 4 Aladdin Lamps, then 3, then 2, and it is in the high 20's here at night now, and am not heating anything..

I may start the lamps around 4 or later, and turn them off at 10. This is my way of getting back at this BS.

With the battery at a near constant 55 in the cellar with the vinals that works.

The LL does the rest of the house, but I am not there for it. It ain't my problem, and if it was it would be done with wood. I begged for wood, but he would rather drop lots of dimes on oil.

All that and upstairs is cold to me. I come in from being out all day long colder than I might like and want a wood stove to stand by and there is none. So in out multiservice room where i go on the puter and do anything else I might like it is all by oil lamps heat.

I have a 69 pound vise in here, a 75 pound anvil, a place to sew, work silver, and mess around with guns.

The bed is central and the tv is above my puter.. I made the tables myself. My wife has the opposite corner as a small studio.

The LL needs help some for pay and lots not.. in turn we get land for a garden that served up all tonights dinner except for the beer grains bread. The same grains spoiled just slightly more become compost, which I try to get 1,000 lbs a week of.

The first years garden here was tiny as there was no soil. Now it is 60x100 and I need more room. This year, like right now I want to take a portion of lawn over for strawberries and get them moved.

The idea will be to not need to work around them, and maybe sell plants next year. Worms too. I found a hand full of worms 2 years ago and put them in the garden. Now I raised monster worms the size of a childs pencil.

I don't and can't live like most folks do. I am supposed to be on welfare, but don't. I got hurt on the job and can't do 8 hours days, and haven't since 87.

I got screwed by AIG for back surgey, and am getting even ever since. I try to not earn money on purpose, and trade instead.

So I avoid anything with monthly bills like utilities, loans, and anything that creates paper trails. it has come to I really don't need any of that.

I never ask for anything I didn't earn, but it doesn't always work out that way. Sometimes other people create gifts i didn't ask for, which at times is a bit hard to accept.

Some of you guys do this to me, and all I can do is be polite and say Thank You.

I am not sure why this happens, but maybe because i am a humble little guy most of the time.

I don't see many living people most of the time. I see my wife and I see my LL, and thats about it. On rare times I see a few of you guys, and then others at events I attend.

But i don't live like most anyone else at all. ...... probably more than you wanted to know.... http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

[audiogooroo]

Sounds like a pretty good life to me macmac. :)

[macmac]

Wasn't complainin.. I like it, as my time is my time all the time even when I work for pay.

I give CEO's chit anytime i want, and they can't even fire me http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif Got the neck tie tour in a place over summer that makes science equipment and glass slides is one of the things they make.

I showed up in sandals to a place with thin broken glass all over the place. Some CEO type hadda go get me big rubber boots before i could tour the plant and see every blooming room and thing they run to make slides and other stuff.

i got this pony tail and a beard, dress like a rag tech, and if they want services i can do, they gotta suffer with my laid back ways. One engineer (blue shirt and tie) guy said quietly while I was washing my hands of powdered glass dust after handilng some machines to be rebuilt, that he wished he could dress and be like me, but he has 6 years left to wear his ball and chain.

I don't have much money, but I revel in life...

[cyclecat]

macmac, I don't know what you would consider having a Nomad a long time but Brian's is on her ninth season and Ruby is on her seventh. To us that is quite a long time to own a motorcycle.

Not wanting to step on any toes or hurt anyone's feeling, but in our many, many, many years of riding, we have noticed one thing about people and their motorcycles - some people spend a lot of time playing with them and some of us spend our time riding.

We have also noticed those that those that spend a lot of time taking stuff apart, fixing things that really do not need fixed, and generally monkeying with their ride, can expect a lot less life out of their motorcycle. We have a tendency to ignore most of posts here and other forums as people worrying unnecessarily about 'fixing' problems that 'might' happen.

Last winter, Brian finally decided he'd read enough to start checking various things on his Nomad (she had 55,000 miles on her) because he might need to fix them. He looked at the cam chain tensioners, they are fine, he looked at the drive shaft, it is fine. He basically took everything apart he could and checked everything he could. Nothing was worn or needed replaced. Our Nomads run as good today as they did when they were new.

Now, I'm not saying that Vulcans do not have common problems, we know they do, but at this point, ours run great, and we do not fix any of the things constantly talked about on this and other Vulcan forums. We do not 'winterize' and do not have problems in the spring. We do not worry about what might happen if we do not check this and that.

What we do is regular maintenance: oil changes - we run semi-syn diesel oil - listen for weird noises, check tire pressure on a regular basis, check the final drive oil, make sure the lights are working, and spend a fair amount of time cleaning.

Other than regular maintenance most Nomads will have many trouble free years. A Nomad is made to ride, loves the open road, and will haul anyones butt for a long, long, time before they quit.

[Top Cat]

CycleCat, you have noticed , as have I , a lot of the members here are real anal about their rides http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif
A bunch of stuff is posted here that I don't worry about either. i bought the nomad to ride and that is what I do.
You state you do not winterize your bikes. Where do you live? I winterize as much as I deem necessary. Battery tender, stabilizer in gas, clean and polish. there is no way I am going to change the oil when I put it away and then change perfectly good unused oil again in the spring.
Anyway, to each his own. We are all different and that is a good thing http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif
Mac, people probably give you gifts you don't think you earn because they appreciate the things you do for them. You and Gwyn are kind and caring people. You do nice things with out expecting anything in return. When someone gives you a gift you say all you can do is say Thank You. Well I'm sure the people giving you the gifts expect no more.
Hell, just the fact you could be on welfare but refuse to do it makes me want to give you a gift http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

[Top Cat]

ahh mac? http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh319/sentpacking/00000117760-HolmesMicathermicCNSLhe.jpg

works for me.

What is that, is it a kerosine heater?
If so, how many gallons of kero do you go through in the winter down time.
I live in NY State and do not heat the garage my bikes are in.

[wompus]

Winterizing...let's see....

You do like I did... you leave Erie, Pa. and head south to Georgia! http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif <GMAO>


.

[macmac]

CC, I am a x foreign car tech of 30 years as a pro. I simply make info more available.
You take it or leave it as you please.

I own a mint better than new 1981 XS 850 Sh Yammi I call Liberty, for the paint it got in Spring 02.

My 1985 volvo turbo wagon has over 250,000 and the original clutch, and turbo.

The newest vehical I have other than the 06 Nomad is our 86' Dodge conversion van. (No rust)

In 85 I gave up working on cars to earn a full time living, and went off to work at a B&B as a Mr. Fix it for a while and got hurt bad working with horses. There was a tourist drunk involved in t5he accident that happened to me, but his hair now hangs on my wall so I am even.

After that I worked on pre 50's classic wooden boats restoring them.
I have some back ground in chainsaws, lawnmowers, heavy equipt, and air planes. I am strong in 12 volt systems in my hands, but errors on line where I can't see the details.

In the 70's i worked on cars that never got any oil changes becase tree huggers are people who think oil is a dirty word, and refused to ever change oil, they would just add it.

These OEM batterys are one of the best items on a Nomad, no doubt about it and I am impressed.

So far you got 9 years out of yours and if I get my way I will beat you hands down for the maint I give it and the rest of my bike.

I expect 250,000 miles of my Nomad before I do anything major.

I will still look at my drive shaft and U joint anytime I change a rear tire. It just makes sence, not only that but my 01 Nomad before it was stolen had a defective drive shaft and U joint.

When a bad U joint gets bad enough in a covered tube if it gags up it will seize the rear wheel unexpectedly and that will probably kill any rider.

If it doesn't it will wreck other major parts in a 1/2 heartbeat.

The only reason I don't ride my 01 is because it was stolen.

That 81 850 yammi I got came off a scrape metal heap in a auto junkyard, and every bit of it went into the kitchen sink and then some. it sure didn't look like this when I got it, and no one and I mean no one has ever touched this bike but my wife and I.

I do any and all of my own labor on anything and most anything I want. Wants come under gardens, knives, guns, and leather products like mocs, leggins, and other items.

I even make silver working tools, not that I work much silver since it rocketed to what it is now.

Please don't take this wrong, I don't intend to be that way, but I am fairly well qualified in many things..

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll275/Mac_Muz/Liberty/d8f4.jpg

Mostly what and why are I am no longer able to work as I once did. I will give away for free the How To of things to those who will take their time to read it.

When another doesn't spend it does me good. My way of getting back what AIG did to me.

[cyclecat]

TC, we live in Alberta, 60 miles from the Rockie Mountains.

Mac, not taking anything wrong, I enjoy reading your posts and will continue to read them.

We also have 2 fairly old cars that still run and run well. We have 1992 Nissan with 224,000 miles and have never done anything to it mechanically other than changed the water pump one time.

Up until 8 months ago, I was driving a 1965 Ford Fairlane back and forth to work. It has 95,000 original miles on it, an old slant six and a 3-on-the-tree. Again we have done nothing to this car and it runs great. Went out in the back just this past week-end, turned the key and the old Ford fired right up and away we went for a ride.

[rickyboy]

[quote="rickyboy ... #00722":5apq4v91]ahh mac? http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh319/sentpacking/00000117760-HolmesMicathermicCNSLhe.jpg

works for me.

What is that, is it a kerosine heater?
If so, how many gallons of kero do you go through in the winter down time.
I live in NY State and do not heat the garage my bikes are in.[/quote:5apq4v91]

T.C. Not sure if you're kidding or not, ??? but.....It's an electric, sealed, oil heater. You just plug it in. Mine, {not exactly as shown} has three settings.....700 watts, 800 watts, or both to make a total of 1500 watts. I usually keep it set on 700 W. There is of course a dial setting where you select the heat setting of your choice. A low to med. setting usually does me fine for taking the dampness and chill out of the garage.

The topic is/was winterizing and the issue of moisture came up. I questioned if when the climate alternates, {as it can in places such as Calgary, Canada}, between cold and then warm and back to cold throughout the winter if that can be damaging to the bike. i.e. causing more moisture than say in a steadily cold climate. Here on the west coast you might have noticed we get a lot of rain in the winter and spring. That's why I use the heater. To help keep the moisture down, and to help keep my a$$ a little warmer when working in the garage.

[Top Cat]

Rick, nope. I was serious. If I was kidding I would have put a ;) next to the question.
So, do you leave this heater on all winter and if so, how much does it raise your electric bill? ( I'm serious )

[macmac]

I was confused about the heater too, but took it for sealed oil. That would spin my dial, unless the trailer the Nomad goes in was insulated to R 38 or something.

CC slant 6? Ford?? So far as I know only Chrystler used slant 6's, but I could be wrong. i was never any sort of American car tech unless I happend to own one.

I had a push button Dodge once with a slant 6. That was a winter beater.

I recall Fords with straight 6's. Don't take that wrong either, because i am not familar with Ford, but it could be a trick to catch me.

I know back to 1950's 544 Volvos to 85' Real Beetles (air cooled) Lots of kinds of triumphs, MG's, Saabs, and lots more, but not much on American Iron, other than what I once had or still have.

This is one reason I don't ride or want to ride a Harley.

In 244,000 miles i suspect you forgot a few 4 wheel brake re-workings, some shocks, exhausts, and etc.... too...

My volvo wagon is on a 2nd set of brake rotors, countless brake pads have been turned to dust. The floor was broken from dorr pillar to door pillar when I bought it, and it needed a water pump then.
I did a new timing belt just because back then too, Fall 97' when I bought it. Several exhaust parts have been replced more than once over the years, but over all it is still a great car and pretty quick, being turbo.

The killer will be the day the turbo fails.

[cyclecat]

Your right mac, it's a straight 6 not a slant 6 but it still runs great.

As for the Nissan, brakes once and all the regular maintenance stuff has been done but no engine work except for the water pump.

[macmac]

Ah HAA it was a trick question.. http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif

[rickyboy]

Rick, nope. I was serious. If I was kidding I would have put a ;) next to the question.
So, do you leave this heater on all winter and if so, how much does it raise your electric bill? ( I'm serious )


OK,...I leave it on if there's snow on the ground, monsooning and/or if the temp dips down to the low 40'sF or high 30's.
Does it cost much? hummm Not that much. A few bucks a month. But remember the avg. temp here on the coast in the winter is about 40 -50 F. just a cost of having a bike, for me.

[Top Cat]

OK, your over there by the Pacific Ocean, BC Canada.
I for some reason thought you were here on the East coast :-[
Didn't do well in geography in school.
I would have to leave the heater on all the time here in NY State.
Thanks for bearing with me :)

[rickyboy]

OK, your over there by the Pacific Ocean, BC Canada.
I for some reason thought you were here on the East coast :-[
Didn't do well in geography in school.
I would have to leave the heater on all the time here in NY State.
Thanks for bearing with me :)

Yes I'm here in "lotus land".......Although last winter was a killer. We had record snowfalls. And cold. The heater was on a lot.