16K miles any issues I need to start expecting?

[Jared]

My bike will be hitting 16K here in the next week or so. Up to this point everything has been smooth. Oil, tires and that is it.

*I pulled the plugs and cleaned them. They looked great so no need to replace.
*I checked the brake fluid and it was still full and had a good color to it, so I didn't replace it.
*I checked/tested the coolant and it still had its cooling properties, so I didn't replace it.

Everything seems to be running great, but those of you that have several miles on your bike. When did need to replace the battery, front shock oil, brake pads, etc?

I will be running at least 10K miles this summer and I hope not to run into any issues.

[wompus]

I'm at almost 80,000 miles on my Nomad. Just pay good attention of your maintenance book and you should be OK.
There are different things that the book never covers, like... the road gremlins.. those little bisterds can sneak up on even the best ride!

Check all the bolts, screws, and even the radiator hoses. One thing I notice a lot is that NO ONE ever checks their brake lights to see if they are working. Turn signals can flash even with only 1 bulb working.

I have noticed over the years that bikes with running lights all over the rear of the bike is great... but with 6 lights why is there almost always only 1 brace light!??

Check your air pressure EVERY time you ride.. or at least once a week.

You want your motor to run cooler and last longer? Use synthetic oil, and not this Castroil crap but the real stuff like Amzoil! Change the oil filter every 5000 miles. Little things like this helps to ride longer. :)

[paul]

Start expecting to ride more for starters http://s2.images.proboards.com/grin.gif.
Seriously, saw a thread not too long ago about cleaning the throttle body with a good spray and brush. I have 21K, did that, and IT MADE A BIG DIFFERENCE! Had to turn down the idle almost 1/3 a turn to get back to 800rpm.

So, add that to your list for 20K plus or minus. Ride often, ride long.

[taranis]

I've got just over 16K on mine. Same deal. All fluids, pads and whatnot looked good. I need to get the back wheel off and check the swing arm, lube as necessary and next oil change redo the gear oil.

That's really about it. Change oil/filter every 2K miles, radiator fluid every 2 years, whether it needs it or not. Clean the throttle body every air filter change. That's about it.

[Jared]

How do you clean the throttle body? I've never done that and I doubt the previous owner did either.

Also, why change the fluid if you test it and it is still just fine? I'm not trying to be cheap, but if it's still good after two years, why change it?

http://i336.photobucket.com/albums/n337/900classic/Random-%20forum/coolenttester.jpg

[ponch]

The corrosion inhibitors are only good for so long. I think the manual calls for replacement after 3 years. Prestone makes 5 year 150K mile premix green antifreeze, so you probably want to use that. I would also add that you probably should do the swing arm/drive shaft service, and change the rear drive fluid. as far as cleaning the throttle bodies, once a year wouldn't hurt at all. I did mine last September and then last weekend and they were filthy. I used Berryman throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush. Usually you will see a degradation in mileage and idle quality as they get dirty. There is a recent thread in the 1500/1600 Garage section on this.


How do you clean the throttle body? I've never done that and I doubt the previous owner did either.

Also, why change the fluid if you test it and it is still just fine? I'm not trying to be cheap, but if it's still good after two years, why change it?

http://i336.photobucket.com/albums/n337/900classic/Random-%20forum/coolenttester.jpg

[VulcanE]

The reason to change your coolant is even though it may still protect from boil-over or freeze-up, the lubricants, rust inhibitors, and other chemicals are starting to get tired. Changing the coolant is one of the easiest and lest expensive maintenance chores there is. Remember, this is the only lubricant the water pump gets. ;)
Also the dot-4 brake fluid will absorb moisture from inside the rubber hoses, and it's a good idea to change it every 2 years too.

[dogdoc]

Good tips VulcanE: i changed my coolant after 3 yrs to prestone(5 yr) but since it was so easy Im going to do it every 2 yrs. Done all 3 dot4 items and they are real easy, so every 2 yrs on them. Fluid starts turning brown instead of clear, thats your tip.

[zoom45]

My first clutch spring was needed at 18,000. I started noticing a slight slip when accelerating. When I replaced it the spring was worn paper thin at the contact surface. I don't think it would have lasted another 50 miles. I put a Mean Streak spring in and it still seems fine at 63,000.
Zoom45

[ponch]

Brake fluid color can be deceiving. I thought mine was good on my 800 and I decided to pop the top. Wow. After I bled all the old stuff out and replaced the pads with some from EBC, it stopped better than new. Definitely an easy maintenance item.


Good tips VulcanE: i changed my coolant after 3 yrs to prestone(5 yr) but since it was so easy Im going to do it every 2 yrs. Done all 3 dot4 items and they are real easy, so every 2 yrs on them. Fluid starts turning brown instead of clear, thats your tip.

[Yellow Jacket]

When you checked the brake and clutch fluids, if you just checked at the master cylinders it probably would have looked fine. If you went to the brake calipers and bled a little out it may not be so clear there. It's not hard to replace the brake and clutch fluids. I would do it every 15k miles or two years.

[Jared]

About how many miles have you guys gotten out of your brake pads?

[ells]

About how many miles have you guys gotten out of your brake pads?

Had to change my rears at 18K, which surprised me since I have 42K on my VN800 and still on originals all around, I tend to downshift to slow down.

BTW, Concerning the title of this tread, 16000K is a lot of miles, I'd expect the thing would have fallen apart by then, 16 million miles!

[Jared]

16000K miles LOL!!! YEP, I ride a LOT!

[Jared]

Ok, I've come up with a list of things I'm going to do before my big 6K summer trip to Florida.

Things to replace:
Tires
Spark Plugs
Oil-Engine/Shaft
Coolant
Brake Fluid
Clutch Fluid
Fork Oil
Check:
Brake pads
Air filter
Clean:
Throttle body

The manual says to replace the "Clutch slave cylinder piston seal" at 15K. What is this?

Are there any other things I need to do?

[Yellow Jacket]

Ok, I've come up with a list of things I'm going to do before my big 6K summer trip to Florida.

Things to replace:
Tires
Spark Plugs
Oil-Engine/Shaft
Coolant
Brake Fluid
Clutch Fluid
Fork Oil
Check:
Brake pads
Air filter
Clean:
Throttle body

The manual says to replace the "Clutch slave cylinder piston seal" at 15K. What is this?

Are there any other things I need to do?

What manual is saying 15K for the clutch seal?

My Kawasaki Service Manual states:

Replace the Clutch slave cylinder piston seal at four years or 30,000 miles, whichever comes first.

This seal is located between the piston and the spring in the clutch slave cylinder.

Since your 2005 will be four years old this year it should be replaced.

[unwind2]

About how many miles have you guys gotten out of your brake pads?

Had to replace rear pads at 18K.

[ells]

Threads here now have me a little concerned about my clutch spring at 20K. Have done a lot of 2-up and mts with no signs of slipping yet. Probably will let it go until the first signs of slipping. Gadget indicates they can do 50K, his did.

[Jared]

[quote="Utah Motorcyclist":urule8gr]Ok, I've come up with a list of things I'm going to do before my big 6K summer trip to Florida.

Things to replace:
Tires
Spark Plugs
Oil-Engine/Shaft
Coolant
Brake Fluid
Clutch Fluid
Fork Oil
Check:
Brake pads
Air filter
Clean:
Throttle body

The manual says to replace the "Clutch slave cylinder piston seal" at 15K. What is this?

Are there any other things I need to do?

What manual is saying 15K for the clutch seal?

My Kawasaki Service Manual states:

Replace the Clutch slave cylinder piston seal at four years or 30,000 miles, whichever comes first.

This seal is located between the piston and the spring in the clutch slave cylinder.

Since your 2005 will be four years old this year it should be replaced.[/quote:urule8gr]

If I'm understanding correctly, the maintenance manual says on page 2-5 to replace the Clutch slave cylinder piston seal at 4 years or at 7.5,15,24K miles--whichever comes first.

[Yellow Jacket]

Utah,

What manual do you have? My manual I got directly from Kawasaki and it says 4 years or 30,000 miles.

Here's a photo of page 2-5 from my manual:

The first bullet for Clutch Seal is in the 30,000 column.

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff109/retsiem/Tech%20Stuff/Page2-5.jpg

[Jared]

That is the strangest thing. I have the 2005 Kawasaki Nomad 1600 PDF manual and my page 2-5 is exactly the same as yours except mine has a dot in every square except 0.6.

I would assume yours to be correct?

[Yellow Jacket]

That is strange. Is this a PDF manual you downloaded from somewhere? Mine is the hardcopy manual I ordered directly from Kawasaki. I would hope mine is correct.

[ponch]

Mine too. It's got to be a typo.


That is the strangest thing. I have the 2005 Kawasaki Nomad 1600 PDF manual and my page 2-5 is exactly the same as yours except mine has a dot in every square except 0.6.

I would assume yours to be correct?

[ells]

My PDF manual shows the same as TC's

[Jared]

I downloaded the PDF version for free off of some website. I wouldn't surprise me if it had a few errors.